Film protectant?
#1
Film protectant?
I finally found enough time to arrange some body work on my little Ranger. It's an Edge model, with the painted bumpers. The front bumper was repainted 3 years ago, but has not held up well, rust. It supposedly was painted with a chip resistant paint. I know there is some sort of a film out there that can be applied to painted parts to keep them from chipping. Does anyone have a handle on it? Or have a better idea?
#2
Hi Johnday!
ClearBra (3M)- I have it & installed it on several of my vehicles- other companies make a similiar product......Basically, if you can do window tint, you can do this too. It is very, very durable with regards to damage protection, I can personally attest it is almost bullet proof in regards to protecting the paint and panels from damage but paint must be fully cured before application (IMHO, 1 year). Additionally you can order pre-cut templates of the material for your hood, etc or bulk rolls as well. The main issue when ordering pre-cut is to spec that you do not want to have to stretch the material more than 1/8" (personally I like 1/16" but some are a little testy about that) Some distributors cut the material so that is requires you to stretch it up to 1/4" across the width of the hood.....while it does stretch, that is just a unnecessary PITA !! and as thick as it is, it ain't easy either.
I ordered mine (actually for my 2006 Mark LT and others) from...
Star Shield Armor
4315 East Santa Ana Street
Ontario, CA 91761
866-662-4477
626-813-0299
I requested the hood width be require no more than 1/16" stretch (no problem), service, product quality was very good. I was just glancing at their vid to ensure their address (they moved from irwindale) and as you can see, they still believe in making the product fit the car, versus you making it fit the car.......FYI- they are also a 3m training center.
For my Mark LT (which I did in 2006), IIRR the entire front nose (pre-cut) cost me under $200 (including air dam, etc), for a pro installation- the total bill would have been around $350.
ClearBra (3M)- I have it & installed it on several of my vehicles- other companies make a similiar product......Basically, if you can do window tint, you can do this too. It is very, very durable with regards to damage protection, I can personally attest it is almost bullet proof in regards to protecting the paint and panels from damage but paint must be fully cured before application (IMHO, 1 year). Additionally you can order pre-cut templates of the material for your hood, etc or bulk rolls as well. The main issue when ordering pre-cut is to spec that you do not want to have to stretch the material more than 1/8" (personally I like 1/16" but some are a little testy about that) Some distributors cut the material so that is requires you to stretch it up to 1/4" across the width of the hood.....while it does stretch, that is just a unnecessary PITA !! and as thick as it is, it ain't easy either.
I ordered mine (actually for my 2006 Mark LT and others) from...
Star Shield Armor
4315 East Santa Ana Street
Ontario, CA 91761
866-662-4477
626-813-0299
I requested the hood width be require no more than 1/16" stretch (no problem), service, product quality was very good. I was just glancing at their vid to ensure their address (they moved from irwindale) and as you can see, they still believe in making the product fit the car, versus you making it fit the car.......FYI- they are also a 3m training center.
For my Mark LT (which I did in 2006), IIRR the entire front nose (pre-cut) cost me under $200 (including air dam, etc), for a pro installation- the total bill would have been around $350.
#6
When first seeing this stuff available in a thicker version my first thought was either a professional or DIY application to the rocker panels and wheel wells of a newer vehicle. In my case it would be an E-Series but naturally it would work on others as well.
Given that its 3M you know the quality is there!
Given that its 3M you know the quality is there!
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#8
If you're highly motivated to do this yourself it might have a bit of a learning curve but its not something permanent when installed. While it does cling like nothing else the fact its removable especially just after installing would have me tackling this without fear.
#10
#11
Let me contribute........
1st, assuming you washed/cleaned the paint, have the pre-cut or you have finished cutting it yourself.....
measure the area and using a grease pencil, mark the center on the paint (just above where it will go) and on the face of the material...on the edge nearest to where the mark on the paint will be. Most say to use an alcohol/water mix...spray the paint liberally....just start to peel the covering on the glue side of the film (now stop) spray your fingers (or have a friend do this) as it keeps your fingers from bonding to the adhesive side...now remove the covering exposing the glue side & have a friend spray the "H" out of it (or you can lay it upside down on a surface and do this as well)....lay it on the paint starting at the centerpoint for your alignment, lightly lay it down adjusting to the edge as you go, .....spray the surface & using a hard squeegee, starting at the center, work the water out to the outer edge.....
1st, assuming you washed/cleaned the paint, have the pre-cut or you have finished cutting it yourself.....
measure the area and using a grease pencil, mark the center on the paint (just above where it will go) and on the face of the material...on the edge nearest to where the mark on the paint will be. Most say to use an alcohol/water mix...spray the paint liberally....just start to peel the covering on the glue side of the film (now stop) spray your fingers (or have a friend do this) as it keeps your fingers from bonding to the adhesive side...now remove the covering exposing the glue side & have a friend spray the "H" out of it (or you can lay it upside down on a surface and do this as well)....lay it on the paint starting at the centerpoint for your alignment, lightly lay it down adjusting to the edge as you go, .....spray the surface & using a hard squeegee, starting at the center, work the water out to the outer edge.....
#12
Sorry guys, I haven't been on here for a couple days, work is killing me. 5 days dark to dark, and Saturday an early day, 0600-1500. Ya, a short day! LOL
I'm wondering if there isn't something like "plastidip" that comes in a clear gloss. Just tossing that thought around, an ape can use a rattle can.
On edit; I sent ClearBra an email. They have an installer in Alpena Michigan according to their list. I'm hoping they'll clue me in as to who it is.
I'm wondering if there isn't something like "plastidip" that comes in a clear gloss. Just tossing that thought around, an ape can use a rattle can.
On edit; I sent ClearBra an email. They have an installer in Alpena Michigan according to their list. I'm hoping they'll clue me in as to who it is.
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