I have a friend with a 99 Ranger 2.5L 4cyl. 2WD who put in a new clutch. I guess that he had trouble getting all of the air bled out of the system. Any suggestions on bleeding or is there a problem with a cluth master cyl. Thanks for your help.

 

I bought a brake bleeding kit that I used to bleed my clutch hydraulic system. Just pick the right size adapter to fit on the bleed screw and it will snap on. The adapter is connected to a clear hose wich is connected to a little cup. Open the bleed screw, and push down on the clutch pedal. Fluid and air bubbles flow into the cup, making it easy to see when there are no more air bubbles. Hold the pedal down and close off the bleed screw. Release the clutch pedal. Do this until no more air comes out of the bleed screw. Make sure the reservoir dosen't run too low.

 

With the angle the master cylinder sits at when bolted to the firewall, it's almost impossible to get all the air out of the system.
Unbolt the master cylinder, hold the end up(with the lines going to slave cylinder, and reserviour) and bleed the system. This will
get all the air out of the master cylinder.

 

We tried what you suggested Bob Ayers, still no luck though. If you start the truck in neutral with the clutch to the floor it does not go into any gear once the engine is running, almost as if the clutch is not disengaging itself from the flywheel at all. Help...

 

I have a 94 and dont know how your clutch system is set up but if it is simular this is how I found to do it the easiest.

inside the cab, pull the starter interlock from the clutch rod, disconnect the rod from the pedal arm. You will see a circlip in the master over the piston. Pull the circlip, pull the piston till just the air and a little fluid escapes, pump the master a couple of strokes repeat the above, reasemble than bleed per the manual, open the bleeder and let gravity bleed. Might have to bleed the bleeder a couple of times, biggest thing is the air in the master.

Make sure the resevoir stays full of fluid when bleeding the system.

 

I have been struggling with my 96 Ranger clutch system for 2 weeks now. I replaced everything from the reservoir to the clutch disc and was still not getting it to disengage at all (even the line from the master cylinder to the slave cylinder, those little stamped steel tools for disconnecting the fitting are not all that great!). The last time I bled the system it was running through freely without pumping, so I assumed it was thoroughly bled. I found this website tuesday night and had the truck on the road in an hour on Wednesday. Hanks' posting on bleeding the master cylinder was a true lifesaver!! Thanks buddy, you saved my checkbook from yet another hit.

Something else worth mentioning. The nice plastic hydraulic line that is oem in my truck has several neat little bends and curves that are great for holding airbubbles as well. I worked the line around while attached to the master and slave in the engine compartment so that any trapped air in the bends could come to the top. That might have been where it was hiding as well. Just don't work it around too much. It has to be purchased through a Ford dealer and runs around $70.

 

what lifesaving info, that did it ,$500 later in parts, ( did the same thing replaced the clutch and every other componet) I'll be sure to pass it on to anyone else that encounters this kind of problem thanks again Tim

 

I was so excited to read this information I went right out and tried it. But I am having trouble following the instructions. I don't see where the circlip is.

 

I neglected to mention that my Ranger is a 1990 2.3L.

 

This worked on my 94 Explorer as well.

 

Cpt330, the circlip should be in the cylinder, it is what holds the piston in. I dont know about the 90 models but all are pretty much the same. There has to be a circlip or something to retain the piston, just get a good light up there push the piston in a little and look at where it was to see the retainer.

 

Thanks. I saw a plastic bushing around the shaft that might unscrew. But I needed to get the truck back on the road last week so I just did a normal bleed including pumping fluid through the master. It seems to have done the trick - the clutch has worked fine since. The first fluid that squirted out the bleed screw was really grungy - probably had never been done before.

 

I am unfamiliar with the term circlip but when I looked at the setup on my 94 Explorer I saw a snap ring and assumed that is what was refered to as the circlip. Used my snap ring pliers to squeeze it inward so it would release from the grooves it sits in and the whole cylinder then pulled apart.

I was unable to tell if air had escaped or not. Not knowing what these things looked like apart I was not sure how far to pull out the piston. So, I pulled it all the way out, topped off the cylinder from the inside of the car and pushed it back together.
This may be the easiest way to know that it is full but there are two possible problems. The first problem is that you could end up with brake fluid dripping on the inside of your vehicle. The second is that there are bushings on the piston coated with grease so it makes a good seal. Some of the grease fell down inside the master cylinder as I pulled it out and it took a bit of bleeding to flush it from the system. Also, explosing the grease to the brake fluid might also cause the grease to break down and affect the seal.

I know it worked well for me. Time will tell if the seal is affected. It got me back on the road quickly though and if I have further failures I will just replace the master cylinder with a new one and make sure it is full as I bolt it to the vehicle. At least they are not real expensive.

Ditto on the grungy fluid. Some was obviously from the white grease out of the master cylinder but I had a lot of gunk coming out before I even attempted that operation. Time and contamination breaks the brake fluid down so it is a good idea to flush them out even when not having a problem.

 

Has anyone ever tried pressure flushing the clutch fluid line?
Using a large reservoir of brake fluid attached to the reservoir line and applying some pressure from an air compressor to force it through while the bleed valve is open and draining to another container?

This could help push out any contaminants as well as push out any air bubbles except those that can get caught in high spots.
Could be an easier method for someone working by themselves to bleed the system.

Any tools around to do something like this? Not a high pressure, just enough to ensure flow when you open the bleeder valve.

Nite

 

I'm not sure about the other years, but the plastic line on my 96 had a bend in it that I'm not sure even that would force bubbles out of. It was a pretty extreme 180 that goes over the frame rail. But if it did work, it would be a lot easier and less risky that my method of working the line around in the engine compartment. There are power bleeders on the market, but I've never used one.