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Old 05-02-2013, 06:45 PM
shabby14 shabby14 is offline
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Cool wire diagram for 1990 ford f150 5.0

I destroyed my ignition swith and the rod is bad inside the steering wheel. So i put a push start and turn the key for power and i bought anew key and ignition swith and i need a wiring diagram for the ignition sitch or th colors of the wire for the ignition, acc, batt is yellow and starter is blue with orange
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Old 05-02-2013, 08:56 PM
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Franklin2 Franklin2 is offline
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Starter wire is actually blue/red. Old faded wiring.

Yellow is power in, you might have two of these.
Grey/yellow is hot in run and feeds the blower motor and the rear defogger(part of the fuse box).

Red/lightgreen is hot in run and feeds lot of things, like the coil, inst cluster, and parts of the fuse box.

black/lightgreen is hot in run and acc position. It feeds the wipers, and different parts of the fuse box (like the radio and other stuff that works in the acc position).

Brown/pink is hot in start only, and is jumped to the red/lightgreen.
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Old 05-03-2013, 03:02 PM
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issue

The ignition switch i have has 4 posts batt, ign, acc, st. wHich wires go where. Batt i know
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Old 05-03-2013, 11:50 PM
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That's the million dollar question. The factory makes their switch have different sections for current carrying ability, and to also get rid of any back-feeding problems you might have.

In other words, when the switch is in run, all these separate sections of the switch tie everything to the yellow wire. When you turn the switch off, it disconnects everything from the yellow wire, and all the circuits they have on separate parts of the switch are not tied together. Even though they were tied together when the switch is in run, the are separated when the switch is off. I don't know if I explained that well enough.

I have discouraged people from retro fitting regular switches for their trucks, but some do it anyway, and surprisingly some do not have any problems tying all your wires that require power to the one post. You more than likely will have to put 1 wire on the ign post, and run it a short distance and take all your hot feed wires from the truck's harness, and tie them to the one ign wire with a big wire nut.

I am not sure you are going to be able to use the acc part of your switch. It's not like you can tie the radio or something like that to the acc part of the switch, because it would then work when the switch was in acc, but would not work when the switch was in ign or what you would call the run position. You say "why not put the radio on the acc part of the switch and the ign part of the switch?". Well you run into the same problem I was describing in the previous paragraph; You end up tying everything to one post, and it only takes powering up one little thing and it's going to power up the whole shooting match.

You could use separate toggle switches for some things, if you do not forget and leave them on and run the battery down.
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Old 05-04-2013, 12:54 AM
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I was trying different posts and te truck wouls star and run for a second and turn off. I have all the wires spliced and ready fo r a post. Which wire should iuse for the toggle switch and what amp would the switch need to be, i have 14 gauge wire im usin?
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Old 05-04-2013, 08:09 PM
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Use the biggest switch you can find in the store. A 30 amp would be nice, but a 20 would probably work.
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Old 05-05-2013, 11:02 AM
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I used a toggle switch for power and the stater with key. Thanks for your help
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:10 PM
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I used to have a 1967 Chevy van, with a big ole 350 in it. The ignition went, the part was expensive, my kids were young, and cash was tight. I bypassed the ignition and ran a $1.19 doorbell ran off the starter. I used two self tapping sheet metal screws and attached to the front of the doghouse down by the floor. Started every time. That van would fly! Just thought I`d share this, kinda funny now all these years later.
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Old 05-09-2013, 05:10 PM
 
 
 
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