1966 Ford F100 non-power brake upgrade
#1
1966 Ford F100 non-power brake upgrade
Hey All,
I am now a little bothered with my braking system. I really would rather stay along the lines of stock as much as possible, so the non-power upgrade comes to mind. I have heard of guys upgrading master cylinders and after that I'm just stuck.
Here is a link to a master cylinder from AutoZone I am thinking about getting since the year is recommended. Is for a 1970 F100. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fenco-New-Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/1970-Ford-F100-1-2-ton-P-U-2WD/_/N-iqlcbZ8kn47?itemIdentifier=49305_0_0_2877%2C3482
Is this the route I should take??? I would just like to have some more breaking force and still be able to keep my drums and not go power.
Any info and a list of parts would be great.
Thank you,
Jesse
I am now a little bothered with my braking system. I really would rather stay along the lines of stock as much as possible, so the non-power upgrade comes to mind. I have heard of guys upgrading master cylinders and after that I'm just stuck.
Here is a link to a master cylinder from AutoZone I am thinking about getting since the year is recommended. Is for a 1970 F100. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fenco-New-Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/1970-Ford-F100-1-2-ton-P-U-2WD/_/N-iqlcbZ8kn47?itemIdentifier=49305_0_0_2877%2C3482
Is this the route I should take??? I would just like to have some more breaking force and still be able to keep my drums and not go power.
Any info and a list of parts would be great.
Thank you,
Jesse
#2
I picked up the following hints from this and other sites.
68 to 72 dual master cyclinder will fit both the 4 and 2 wheel drives
replace the rubber hose and slave cyclinders as money allows
split the front and back system, hook the back to the rear cyclinder so the rear engage first
If you keep the drum brakes, you do not need the equalizer/combination valve.
Good luck
68 to 72 dual master cyclinder will fit both the 4 and 2 wheel drives
replace the rubber hose and slave cyclinders as money allows
split the front and back system, hook the back to the rear cyclinder so the rear engage first
If you keep the drum brakes, you do not need the equalizer/combination valve.
Good luck
#3
Hey All,
I am now a little bothered with my braking system. I really would rather stay along the lines of stock as much as possible, so the non-power upgrade comes to mind. I have heard of guys upgrading master cylinders and after that I'm just stuck.
Here is a link to a master cylinder from AutoZone I am thinking about getting since the year is recommended. Is for a 1970 F100. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fenco-New-Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/1970-Ford-F100-1-2-ton-P-U-2WD/_/N-iqlcbZ8kn47?itemIdentifier=49305_0_0_2877%2C3482
Is this the route I should take??? I would just like to have some more breaking force and still be able to keep my drums and not go power.
Any info and a list of parts would be great.
Thank you,
Jesse
I am now a little bothered with my braking system. I really would rather stay along the lines of stock as much as possible, so the non-power upgrade comes to mind. I have heard of guys upgrading master cylinders and after that I'm just stuck.
Here is a link to a master cylinder from AutoZone I am thinking about getting since the year is recommended. Is for a 1970 F100. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Fenco-New-Master-Cylinder-Brake-System/1970-Ford-F100-1-2-ton-P-U-2WD/_/N-iqlcbZ8kn47?itemIdentifier=49305_0_0_2877%2C3482
Is this the route I should take??? I would just like to have some more breaking force and still be able to keep my drums and not go power.
Any info and a list of parts would be great.
Thank you,
Jesse
It will however be a safer setup because of the dual cyl. & built in "check-valve" so if you blow a wheel cyl. (front or rear) you will still have brakes on the other 2 wheels!!
If you want more stop power just add a (vacume-type) booster for a truck that also had drums on all 4 wheels and you will be all set!
Just connect the big vacume line from booster to a (large) manafold vacume "port".
Loren
#5
I am going to do the same upgrade on my 64. The plan was to do it later this year but I have had chronic problem with the bakes pulling hard to the right after the truck warms up. Last week I discovered this is do a PO running the right front brake line next to the exhaust or visa versa. I bent the brake line for more clearance. I need to rerun the right front brake line, so I am going to replace all the lines and the master while I am bending and flaring.
I am ordering the parts this week and hope to start on the upgrade week after next. I will post the results on this thread.
I am ordering the parts this week and hope to start on the upgrade week after next. I will post the results on this thread.
#6
Jesse, Any particular reason not to do the I-beam swap to power discs? There is no real give away that sez it has been done. Someone looking through slotted or spoked wheels can see the discs but otherwise it looks the same.
You would be using an engineered not piecemeal hit or miss brake upgrade system. I love my wifes husband, and when I am running in the lead pack o dogs out on the big road slightly over the posted limit I want to know I can stop.
John
You would be using an engineered not piecemeal hit or miss brake upgrade system. I love my wifes husband, and when I am running in the lead pack o dogs out on the big road slightly over the posted limit I want to know I can stop.
John
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