2003 F250 7.3 truck

It was 11 degrees this morning. I didn't plug my truck in last night because I didn't think it was gonna get that cold. But it started really hard, took several tries and white smoke was belching out of the exhaust.When it's warmer or plugged in it starts awesome. But there are several guys at work that never plug in their 7.3s and no issues.

What could I look at? possibly the glow plug relay? I just replaced the glow plugs a couple years ago. The little light on the dash takes about 7 seconds to turn off, indicating that I can start the truck. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Ah... yours is easy. No problem. Your glow plug relay is on much longer than when the WTS light goes out, up to 2 minutes when it's really cold. Just wait longer. Sometimes people let it go for 90 seconds and recycle the key for another 90 seconds before starting in really cold weather. I just wait a minute because I use the lighter synthetic oil and Stinky always starts right up with no problem.

 

Thanks. I'll go and give that a try in a few hours when the truck cools down.

 

What Stinky's dad said.
I have a remote starter on my truck and I have it set to turn on the ignition, wait 1 minute then start. This allows time for the glow plugs to warm things up a little longer before cranking. No issues. I will be changing that to about 20 seconds tho once the weather here settles down. It was 80 on Monday, then a high of about 30 yesterday and 15 last night with snow.

 

About how much was the remote start and was it hard to install?

 

Yeah, like these guys are saying, let the glow plugs warm up for longer. That's pretty much all you need to do for it to start easier.

 

I picked up a kind of cheap unit. Crimestopper RS3-G3 for about $50
The box said up to 1500ft range on the remote but that is under perfect conditions. Sometimes it is 5ft, other times I get 500ft. My main reason to get it was for warm-ups at home which it works great. I just hit the button from my living room and the truck starts.
At work I have to go to the door and hit the button. Sometimes it works, sometimes it doesnt unless I get closer.

As for install.... it was really fairly easy...with one exception,. The lock/unlock wires. Now that I know where to really look, it would be easy but finding the actual location of these wires was a PIA. After a few posts on here tho I finally found them and finished the install.

Programming is pretty easy too. I didnt tap into any tach wires or the wait to start wire, I just set the timer and it auto detects everything else pretty good.

Other than the changing range of the remote, it works pretty good. Although thinking back.. If I had to do it again, I would probably spend a little more $$ and gotten something that was a little better quality for better range.

 

Well, crap! I counted off 60 seconds after the 12 second phase with the light and still started hard. Belching out stinky white smoke. It took about 10 cranks to finally get it started. I replaced the Glow plug relay before I did the plugs so I guess I'll start with that considering that glow plugs on the 7.3 are a b*#ch to do.

Also ran a check on my codes and reading nothing but a P1211 code which it has always read but never thrown the check engine light.

 

My relay was clicking this winter so I thought it was good. Wrong, after change out its fine. I hope that is your problem. Easiest fix to do. Just not of the road like I was.

 

Is there a way to check them?

 

Well, I'd say it's toast. Just went out to try and start and after 10 tries I got it going. I left the key on for 90 seconds and then 30 seconds each time after and still hard. Seems like every 2 years I gotta replace this thing.

 

It is easy to check the relay for proper functions... I just don't remember it off the top of my head. I know someone will chime in with the details. I did the same as you...replaced my GPS and the GPR at the same time and all has been good.

 

Yes, with key off measure voltage on two big terminals of GPR. Put one lead to batt ground and touch each big terminal. One should be batt voltage the other none. Turn key on, Measure again, both should have voltage now within one volt of each other. If not, touch leads to two small wires on GPR. Put one lead on one small wire and the other lead on the other small wire. One is ground and one is 12v. If it reads 12 v, GPR is bad.

 

GPS?

The GPR is $50 at Autozone w/ a lifetime warranty. Better than $68 at Carquest w/ no warranty.

 

Do the $5 LED mod that gives you a visual in the cab when the GPR is hot.