Most of you know about the tranny Ive been strugeling with, so I wont bore you with the details you already know. But I was wondering if anybody has ever run a B&M hole shot converter, or similar. Mine is 2000 stall speed , would or could it make it feel as if every gear is slipping? If so I could change back to my old one. Today I cheched fluid presure in all gears 1,2,d, nuetral, park, and reverse, wich all are in specs. I also readjusted the bands, and man shift linkage. It all works fine except for the slipping.I guess Im done for now untill I can get $$$ totake it to the local tranny shop for advise. Im sorry to bore you all for so long with the same old thing, and apreceiate your input more than you could ever know.

 

JIm,

Yes....a high stall torque converter will make it feel like it slips....it is designed to allow the engine to rev up to a point where it is producing more torque and horsepower before it engages.

Here's a little light reading. You might prefer the feel of a stock unit.

Dan

 

Thanks Dan, So a2000 converter should be ingaged fully at 2000 RPM?

 

A 2,000 RPM stall speed converter is not a high-stall converter, something up around 3,000 - 3,500 is. I wonder if your converter is bad? did you ever have a working C4 in the truck before, so you know what it should feel like? If you are used to a stick, it could just be you aren't used to it. If RPM increases but acceleration doesn't, then it is truly slipping.

 

Hi Ross, yes I had a working T converter, but I figured that since I went as far as I did, I may as well spring for a new one while it was apart. I do still have the old one. By the way the old one is a larger unit, same bolt patern, but much biger body?.I guess I could go back to the old converter, it would just be labor. Alot of stinkin labor. LOL EDIT*working t converter, And C4

 

this may be a dumb ? but did you put the right fluid in it there not all the same the type f you need has some friction modifyers in it and some fluids will make it slip

 

Hi thanks for trying to help. Yes I used Oriellys Premium Type -F

 

Now that you've run it a while, has the level been checked? It takes a while to fill the TC and all the cooler lines.

Can you lay rubber? That's a fairly sure way to tell if it's hooking up or slipping (no cheating, dry pavement, no gravel!)

 

I havent touched it today, its kida got me, heck it does have me down pretty bad. I dont have any way to know exactly how much fluid is in it, other than the Lokar dipstick thats on it. I was thinking it could be low or have air pockets. The cooler lines get extreemly hot so I know there is circulation thru the cooler. The fluid pressures are dead on in all gears. I mite add a quart to see what happens. I do have a magnetic drain plug that I could use to drain it back out. I also noticed that when I re adjusted the bands Reverse grabs alot better than the forward gears, and 2nd grabed slightly better than 1and D, and 2nd, is the only forward gear that utilizes the intermediat band. Im more and more thinking I may have a bad tq. Coverter. No burnouts going forward its like an old manual clutch that spins faster the more gas you giive it. Im hoping If I hand $20, or $30 to the guy at the tranny shop he mite give me some advice. ALL OF YOU GUYS have been great trying to help, but Im starting to be embarrassed to post any more about it untill I get it fixed. I dont want to drive it except for testing. I hate to think about it, but I may end up trying to use the old Tq. Con. I really apreceiate any thoughts or Ideas.

 

Nothing to be embarassed about, you've shown remarkable persistence and a good analytical approach! In the end, you'll be successful and think how proud you'll be to say you rebuilt it yourself.

Here's a thought: http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forum...-slipping.html

 

Ross You may not beleive this but I just finished filling out a different ask a mechanic question, but didnt send it cause I didnt want a 4 am phone call. Ill try this one probably tomorow, cause Ive herd bad things about the other site, I just visited. As you already know, a little encouragement from a fellow member is priceless, when your starting to get frustrated and dont have the $$$ to guess. Thanks for the site, and the encouragement, I need em both rirht about now. "EDIT" The first time I read the site you listed I missed the ? and answers about the guy who would not check the fluid LOL.

 

Is the Lokar dipstick definitely the right length? I'd hate to see you go through all of this just for a wrong fluid level (like I did). Don't be embarrassed, I think all of us here admire you for sticking at it and I for one want to know the final solution.

 

Goood question, when i ordered it I ordered the one for a case fill c4 wich is what I have. With the pan off, and the dip stick in, it sits a littel lower than filter pick up. One bit of info that I dont think that Ive mentioned, is that after my first start up, i pulled the valve body to be sure that the shift and kick down levers were properly seated, any way at that time the new filter had alot of fiberous material in it that I cleaned out. I thought it may be the clutches breaking in, so I just cleaned it out.

 

Jimmy,
The full mark on the stick should be level with the trans case at the pan flange. So if you pull the pan again check that the full mark is on the same plane as the the pan rail. Stupid thing to say but remember auto trans fluid level is checked running and hot.

As far as the torque converter, Ross is right, 2000 is not a high stall and you should not really feel any difference between it and a stock converter. I have installed several of various stall speeds and you should not notice the difference until you go over 3000 stall.

 

Good information Dave, that sounds about right, I think Its time to drop the pan and check #1 the dip stick, #2 the filter, and #3 check for metal in the magnetic drain plug.