1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

70 body put on 73 frame

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Old 04-30-2013, 10:58 AM
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70 body put on 73 frame

Hey guys, I have a 1970 f100 Sport Custom and I have a 73 rolling chassis complete with motor tranny, etc. The swap seems pretty straight foward except for the bed. From what I have read the bed mounting holes are on the inside of the bed rails on the 70 and the mounting points on the 73 frame dont match up. Any suggestions on how to reinforce the new holes I have to drill to avoid warping the bed? Thanks
 
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:22 PM
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Phew. Sounds to me like you're opening up a can of worms there buck-a-roo! I'd transfer over the drivetrain if it were me. But I live in Arizona. Are you in the Rust Belt or something?
 
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Old 04-30-2013, 01:28 PM
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Near the ocean im Massachusetts, rust is a huge problem around here.
 
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Old 04-30-2013, 04:46 PM
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Boo, Don't know where Jeff got his info. The cab & front clip are bolt hole exchange. If you are going to do it I recommend keeping it all together. Lift it up roll the chassis out and the new one under.

In 73 Ford added 4in to the rear of the cab & behind the mount bolts, so the chassis & wheel base is longer. They also widened the chassis behind the cab along with the rear track. The front track was widened in 65 with the Twins. Your big issue is going to be visual only. You can set the cab/clip as far back as possible, place a little more space between the cab & bed, and get by if you aren't out for eye candy.

Weld plates on the chassis under the old bed holes drill them & bolt the bed using existing holes.

You can do all this dry run if you like but the issue is space between the bed and or rear wheel position in the bed wheel opening.


John
 
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Old 04-30-2013, 04:58 PM
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In 73 Ford added 4in to the rear of the cab & behind the mount bolts, so the chassis & wheel base is longer. They also widened the chassis behind the cab along with the rear track. The front track was widened in 65 with the Twins. Your big issue is going to be visual only. You can set the cab/clip as far back as possible, place a little more space between the cab & bed, and get by if you aren't out for eye candy.
*
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*AKA. Can of worms. LOL!
 
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Old 05-01-2013, 08:47 AM
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Originally Posted by jowilker
Boo, Don't know where Jeff got his info. The cab & front clip are bolt hole exchange. If you are going to do it I recommend keeping it all together. Lift it up roll the chassis out and the new one under.

In 73 Ford added 4in to the rear of the cab & behind the mount bolts, so the chassis & wheel base is longer. They also widened the chassis behind the cab along with the rear track. The front track was widened in 65 with the Twins. Your big issue is going to be visual only. You can set the cab/clip as far back as possible, place a little more space between the cab & bed, and get by if you aren't out for eye candy.

Weld plates on the chassis under the old bed holes drill them & bolt the bed using existing holes.

You can do all this dry run if you like but the issue is space between the bed and or rear wheel position in the bed wheel opening.


John
Thanks for the info, I plan to do all of my prep work and swap in a cv front suspension and drop the rear while its easy with no body in my way, so when I am ready I can just fit the body on the new chassis and hopefully it will all go smoothly. Hopefully
 
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:12 AM
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Originally Posted by BOOboo0331
Thanks for the info, I plan to do all of my prep work and swap in a cv front suspension and drop the rear while its easy with no body in my way, so when I am ready I can just fit the body on the new chassis and hopefully it will all go smoothly. Hopefully

Is the frame in your truck rusted out and unusable ? That would be the only reason to change frames if you are going to end up changing out the front suspension and modifying the rear too . It would be less work and fit better if you used the correct frame like what's under your truck.____Just my opinion , i try to go the easy way if possible.__
 
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Old 05-01-2013, 10:35 AM
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Boo. I don't know how much freight would be and I understand "using what I got" but I have a 1971 F100 parts truck here in Arizona with a rust free frame rolling chassis. If you are interested let me know. Truck was SWB,302,A/T,regular cab.
 
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Old 05-01-2013, 03:50 PM
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Boo, You didn't give us all the info in your first post, I'm with Jim, if you are going to do all that, stay with the chassis that you have.

Have to agree with Jeff, a desert truck should have solid iron under it, don't know if you can handle the cost of moving it.


John
 
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Old 05-01-2013, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by jowilker

Have to agree with Jeff, a desert truck should have solid iron under it, don't know if you can handle the cost of moving it.


John
Boo. Sorry if this is a kick in the crotch but I gotta say. John, I've always got a kick out of your on a quiet night hearing the chevys rust. The 1st time I read it I laughed out loud. BUT ON THIS THREAD IT KILLED ME! LMAO!
 
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:33 AM
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The chassis the truck is currently sitting on is no good. It is having the first stages of rot on it, I am getting the chassis complete with drivetrain is in near perfect condition. I am able to get this newer chassis for about 100.00 and the cost to repair the orignal would be out of my price range. I'm on a low budget to start this project so swapping the chassis seems to be the better move for me.
 
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Old 05-02-2013, 06:35 AM
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Sorry about the lack of details in my first post, I'm sneaking these posts at work haha
 
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