I was doing some work on my 2003 F250 6.0L and had to remove the FICM to get a little bit more access to thing (BAD IDEA). And now all put together and all it does is crank and no start. Now a couple of codes are poping up, P0603, P1000, U0105, U0306.I think the P1000 code was just because the engine wasnt running when i ran the code reader, and the U0105 and U0306 have to do with the program on the FICM, I think. But what does the P0603 mean? I was doing some research and it was saying that i might just need to get the FICM reflashed. So I called the always expensive dealership and they told me a flash wouldn't help i need to get it rebuilt for about 1000 bucks. I was wondering if there is any other cheaper way to do it, like getting a programmer and doing it myself or pulling on off of a junk yard and praying it works with mine? Or should I just take her to the back and blow her up?

 

My guess is that you probably didn't seat one or more of the connectors fully causing the no start condition.

I'd try going back and reseating the connectors and see if it helps. Then using the scantool, monitor the FICM voltage, Logic, and Main power. If the voltage drops below 48-47.5 volts KOEO or while cranking, the FICM will need to be replaced.

In that case, don't go to the dealer and call Ed at FICMrepair.com He'll fix it better than new, for way less than the dealer, AND offer you a warranty on top of it.

 

is there any other way to check it, what i use to scan the codes and monitor the engine doesnt have that option to read?

 

Pull the FICM and re-seat the connectors and listen for the *snap*

Josh

 

is there supposed to be something rattling around inside the ficm?

 

Nothing in the FICM to rattle unless something came loose.

 

Exactly....

 

Awesome anybody have a link on how to take it apart i took the 8 bolt around the outside and it wouldnt come apart and i dont want to pry it apart to hard. So i unplug the connector and reconnected them, still no start and i was starting to check the voltage and with the key not I was getting about 20 volts out of it and with the key on i got 48 volts and than i tried to crank it and the batteries died so now they are on the charger and i am going to try it again. I have a couple of questions first should i be getting any voltage with the key not even on? If i am getting the 48 volt while cranking but still no start with the same codes what would i do next? Also I know that on the main connector there are 5 ground pin (1,2,3,22,26) but i am also getting a ground connection on number 7 pin which is connected to the ignition switch is that good or bad?

 

It's been a while, but IIRC you have to take the screws inside the small cover out also. There are instructions in the tech folder on how to do everything you want to do to a FICM IF you so desire.

 

so i tested the ficm voltage was getting around 47-48 while key on and while cranking so im guessing that is good new, but still no start and after i cleared the ecu and tried to crank it again no codes poped up and than the batteries died again so now they are on a trickle charge. So i guess the next thing to do if crank it till it starts or get a code?

 

Trickle charge? That's just to keep the batteries topped off, not actually revive and charge them.

Josh

 

ok its a 2A slolw charge instead of the 10A fast charge.

 

I really wouldn't consider 10A fast charge, that's pretty much standard, especially for 2 large diesel batteries. 2A is more like a maintenance charge.

 

if i dont have the the MAF sensor hooked up it should still start right?

 

If it still won't start after you charge the batteries, monitor ICP and IPR values while cranking and post back.