351w torque build opinions please
#16
Long rod engines can make more torque per displacement. But the long rod function is too drag the rpm curves down. The basic rule still applies there is no replacement for displacement. For stock long rod engines, 400m and big 390 are that way by default.
the 351w is a great all around engine. A 400 hp/tq W s not hard to accomplish I wouldnt be so focused n the torque numbers though. The gearing is what what will make the torque usable.
Sounds like you would be happy with a granny gear as well as OD.
the 351w is a great all around engine. A 400 hp/tq W s not hard to accomplish I wouldnt be so focused n the torque numbers though. The gearing is what what will make the torque usable.
Sounds like you would be happy with a granny gear as well as OD.
#17
I actually just traded my way to a np435 trans. Hopefully ill have the od in the next two months. I've got the small block bell housing so my choices are 351w 302 or 300. Low end and midrange torque is the goal. I've heared some people say a longer rod is better for low end, some say top end, and some say just use the longest rod you can period.
#19
I am in the process of doing the same thing with my '78 F100 Custom factory 302 daily driver. I am opting for a 351W swap. I was lucky to get a complete '69 351W for my project for $150. I already have a set of 90's Cobra GT40 heads for the build. Also have a Lunati roller conversion kit, Lunati cam and 570 Holley. Can't rem the years/models for the factory 351W roller motors, but roller is the way to go for a daily driver IMHO. Get ya a used engine from local Craigslist or Facebook Swap & Shop then find a set of used Cobra or Explorer/Mountaineer GT40 heads. Find a head builder that knows how to make those factory castings do what you intend them to do and put your money in having them purpose built. Those heads can be made very usable in capable hands. Have your crank and rods checked and balanced. A good head builder can steer you in the right direction on your cam and piston choice that will do what the engine is intended to do w/o wasting monies on parts that don't work for your application.
Alot of people will tell you to just buy this or that aluminum head instead of wasting money on building factory castings. IMHO that is hogwash if you know what purpose you want to use the engine for. Some factory castings are just diamonds in the ruff cause they are mass produced for general purpose low-emissions and your $500-$800 invested in having them built right is not wasted money when put in the hands of the correct builder. You should be able to build that engine for $1500-$2000 and have a reliable/fun truck to drive and enjoy for years to come.
Alot of people will tell you to just buy this or that aluminum head instead of wasting money on building factory castings. IMHO that is hogwash if you know what purpose you want to use the engine for. Some factory castings are just diamonds in the ruff cause they are mass produced for general purpose low-emissions and your $500-$800 invested in having them built right is not wasted money when put in the hands of the correct builder. You should be able to build that engine for $1500-$2000 and have a reliable/fun truck to drive and enjoy for years to come.
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