I think I may have hit that ring inside the filler neck with a hammer and chisel. Can't remember, did mine a couple years ago. It did come out easier than I expected it to though.

I didn't have that issue with the sending unit mounting surface.... weird.

 

Thank you so much for the info Bob. I did this project this weekend and it turned out great. I also had to cut new spots for my sending unit to fit in the tank properly. It looks like someone is putting them in upside down.

 

Glad it helped!

 

Been thinking about doing this on my 96. I changed out my front pump on warranty 4 time this year from spectra. either pump failures or valve failures. has anyone else had a lot of issues from them or am I just lucky? any better quality ones out there? also what exactly is to be removed from the filler neck when doing the 38 gal swap?

 

I have had a Spectra pump in my Jeep for over a year with no issues. Probably hit or miss on quality, which is why I chose to use the Walbro pump when I did this swap. Excellent quality.

In the tank I used, there was a small sheetmetal ring inside the filler neck connection on the tank, that prevents the vent tube from an OBS gas truck from fitting into the connection. It was just two small tack welds holding it in place, came out very easily with pliers.

 

Fuel tank, FPU and straps are all gone. Someone removed all these parts some years ago. I Bought all the parts Bob Gervais recommended, looks like everything will bolt up. I am having an issue with the fuel pump bracket mounting in the tank. I don't want to cut the extra slots in my new Spectra tank F26D, rather I would like to use a hanger that is closer to the original Ford part. I have a Spectra FPU SP2009H but I am hoping to find something closer to the original. The lines on this spectra exit to the passenger side and I need a drivers side exit for the original lines to connect. Does anyone have a part number or suggestion for a fuel pump hanger. I looked at PFB-4 Motorcraft but some say this is not the right FPU. Any help is appreciated. My truck is a 1992 F250 E4OD with dual tanks and a thirsty 7.5 (AKA 460). Found this truck in Vegas with 54000 original documented miles. Really like this truck, just need to get the rear tank sorted out. Thanks! Update I bought a Bronco Fuel pump hanger PN# F0TZ-9H307-D It had the correct electrical connector for my early 1992 F250 and the hangar fit without removing tabs or cutting new tab slots. I used a Delphi pump PN#FGO199. This pump has a angled pickup and sits closer to the bottom of the tank. I made ONE cut in the 5/16 return line about 1 inch above the connector strap the joins the 3/8ths line and the 5/16th line. I carefully bent the 3/8ths line up between the first and second bend on the longest straight section. When finished bending you will have about a 1 inch gap in the 5/16th line where you made your cut. I used some rubber fuel line and two mall clamps to re connect the 5/16th line. This setup dropped in, plugged in and has been working like a champ for several days now. I did realign the fuel lines at the pump to better line up with the fuel lines coming from the truck. All in all a fairly uncomplicated project. Thanks to Bob Gervais (RIP).

 

Remove the tabs from the fuel pump, I found that 1 was correct and the other wasn't.
Or just cut new slots for the tabs with cutting pliers or use a rag to catch shavings and use hack saw. It's not a big deal.

 

Thanks UNTAMND. I'll try that if the pump hanger I ordered off ebay wont work. It is for a Bronc PN# FOTZ-9H307-D, Looks like the electrical connector and tabs will put the pump where it needs to be and I am hoping the hanger will put the pump deeper into the tank. Broncos used a 35 gallon tank so here's hoping. On a side note does anyone know off hand what output pressure is correct for an in tank pump on a 7.5 Ltr Engine? I think around 10 psi should be good. Thanks!

 

The f26 tank was meant to be use with stock pump hanger and be extended. I'm not sure the bronco hanger will work because the bronco tank is deeper I think.
Let us know.

Where did you get the bronco sending unit and hanger. I've been looking for a long time for a new one.

 

Umm, 10psi is max for a carb... EFI requires 40-43psi with regulator unplugged.

 

Just as heads up; I regret to inform you guys that Bob Gervais passed away 12-25-2015 due to heart issues.


He was a swell guy and a great wealth of info on this page, and every group he was a part of.


Just thought I'd let you guys know.

 

if someone could just come up with a simple solution to aerate gasoline into a vapor for fuel and show us how I'm pretty sure our mpgs and oil change frequency would be drastically improved. I'm going to go see the pogue carburetor at that museum in florida and take some pictures even though your not supposed to. If it was good enough to get our tanks over 50mpg then its good enough for the rest of society.

 

There are many examples on youtube.

Trucks, lawnmowers, etc.

 

Any internal combustion engine that I know of runs on 'vapours' or 'fumes.' It's called the air/fuel ratio (AFR) and the stoiciometric AFR for a gasoline engine is 14.7:1. Any higher ratio of air and the engine will be running lean.

I don't believe that video. We don't see if the fuel line is actually not providing the engine with fuel. He does show an unplugged fuse, but I have spare fuses around my truck too. Also, he shows the engine stalling when he blocks air from going into the engine. Of course without any air (or more specifically oxygen) going into the engine, it will choke out. I call BS, but nice try on his 15 min of fame.

 

I'm not going to waste my time watching a video that's based off the premise that car companies don't want vehicles to get better gas mileage. With all of the pressure they've been under from the government with CAFE standards, and from their customers and competition, there's no way a supposedly better alternative, with a patent that expired around 1950, wouldn't have been used. So clearly it's not a better alternative.