I'm looking for possible vacuum control units I can use on the distributor of a 1956 272. I believe it's the original distributor on my 1956 F100 long box. It only has vacuum advance (no mechanical). I'd appreciate any information for possible vacuum advance controllers that I can replace this with. The part number I have is FAB-12370-A but I'm no expert on this so I am not 100% certain that it's correct. Any information on units I can replace this with would be much appreciated.
The truck is pretty much original so I'd kind of like to keep it that way but I might also consider putting a newer distributor on it so that I have mechanical advance also.
Thanks for the help,
Marty

 

I'm not sure where to find the correct stuff for the original distributor. Try local parts stores first then the classic Ford places.

The '57 and newer unit will be a great way to go. It looks very similar on the outside and most people would never know the difference. It is simply a better setup.
Your carburetor will not provide the correct vacuum signal for the newer vacuum advance unit. You can cap it off at the distributor and use only the mechanical advance. You could run the vacuum line to a stock port on the carb, but plug the line with a piece of 3/16" rod to make it appear more stock but not functional. You can try manifold vacuum - that's what I use and it works for me.
Some of the older carbs can be modified to provide the correct signal for the new vacuum advance. Do you know which carb you have?

 

Hi Charlie. Thanks for the reply. I believe the carb is also original. It's a 2 barrel with very little info stamped on it. It looks like a Holley 94 but has an "F" and Ford stamped on one side and EBU on the other. On the back there is a "1".

 

I think that is a Holley 94.

Here's a link to a how to for converting it to a ported vacuum signal for "correct" operation of the later vacuum advance. Please confirm the carb model before you try do do this if you choose the later distributor route.

http://www.eatonbalancing.com/blog/2010/02/07/modifying-the-holley-94-two-barrel-for-late-model-distributors/

 

Thanks again. Where did you find the '57 or newer distributor? Is it original Ford or is it from another manufacturer?

 

Your local parts store. Ask for a rebuilt distributor for a 1964 F100 with a 292. Also get the distributor cap for it.

 

If you have trouble finding the vacuum can, I may have a good used one for not much.
Yesterday while trouble shooting my '64 Falcon with 200 I6, the problem turned out to be a leaky vacuum module on the dist. The '64 still used the loadomatic. Napa had a new replacement, but when checking it at the store with a vacuum syringe and gauge it leaked too.

So I pulled out a used '56 V-8 vacuum unit. Had to drill the mounting holes out and use screws backed with nuts. The shaft length was the same as the I6, but the end was oriented 180 degrees off. Using a wet rag to protect the body, and a torch, the shaft was bent 180 degrees, and wahlah. 10 minutes of work saved $25 and a trip. This is just a little side bar. Probably wont help you.

 

Sorry, can't agree with that. You never use manifold vacuum for a distributor vacuum advance..

 

Thanks 46yblock. For now I have a solution... it's kind of funny though. I have done what you did. I found the vacuum can that likely fits your car and I modified it so the end of the arm is bent 180 deg. from how it came and have fit the screws from the bottom. I might drill out the threads and through bolt it also... for now it's working though. I'll take a look around though and see if I want to update the distributor.

 

How about that! Nice going.

 

Well, I do and it works great! You have to tune things a little differently but it works. And I'm not the only one to do it with success.

 

Will you please explain how that can work successfully? At idle you will be getting full vacuum advance and under load when the throttle is opened the manifold vacuum will drop and the distributor will retard. There have been many post about not using manifold vacuum.

 

Yes there are a fair number of guys running manifold vacuum, but I dont know how to do it either.

 

You do get additional advance at idle which means that the idle speed and idle mixture has to be adjusted. In normal day to day stop and go driving, it results in a cooler running engine which holds a more consistent temperature and better off idle characteristics.
The manifold vacuum does not drop with gradual opening of the throttle and at cruise so you get the full benefit of the vacuum advance when it is really needed. Like you, I thought that it did until I hooked up a vacuum gauge one day and watched it.
There are also adjustable vacuum canisters to help get everything dialed in and many stock canisters are actually adjustable. The vacuum drops and advance goes away when the throttle is wide open at which point, only the mechanical advance is functioning, which is the way it should be.

The key here is a willingness to tune and explore. I like using manifold vacuum more than the correct ported vacuum signal. It just works better for me. It can be done, I assure you.

 

I'm sure it can be done. Thank you for explaining it but I still don't see the sense in it. I'm glad it works for you. I'm confused as to why you think having no vacuum advance and only mechanical at wide open is any benefit, thats sounds like a loss of power to me when you need it. It almost seems like the vacuum advance is almost useless, except at idle which I can't see any real benefit to, but cruising would be fine. I think I'll stick with carb ported vacuum which has worked fine for me on all my Y's over the years.