EGR decisions
#1
EGR decisions
I pulled the valve on the pickup today, was pretty amazed at how clogged up it was with soot. I shined a flash light into the intake, just to see it was clogged with soot that was like half an inch deep. It was just like picking up a pile of dirt, expect just dry soot. I sucked up as much of it as I could with a vac, put the valve back in and went to Ford looking for answers. They basically told me that the buildup of soot was from the valve being stuck, and I would need to either remove the intake and have it washed out, or use the internal intake cleaner BG(I think?). Either way the cost for both was about the same, and just taking the intake out seems like the better option. I was told pretty much the only way to keep this from happening again was to delete the EGR, which they recommened. I've been wanting to delete the EGR, but I didn't figure I'd have enough cash to do it, so just been trying to slide by until I start school in August and do it myself. I'm still not completely sure what they would charge to delete it, one guy said around 1,400 and another said around 2,700 which I would be better off selling the truck and getting a loan for a different one, if that's the case haha.
Help me figure out where to go from here, I'm pretty bummed.
Help me figure out where to go from here, I'm pretty bummed.
#3
A quote of $2,700 sounds like a screw job to me. Even $1,400 is a bit high unless it includes parts (good ones). If you did a "stealth delete" by having a plug welded in your cooler and re-install it you could do it yourself and put fresh coolant in it for a couple hundred or even less. If you going to pay someone, it does take a few hours and mechanics ain't cheap.
#7
I've probably read 100's of threads on egr delete, there's just so many different opinions it's hard to know which one would be best.
I'm not sure if me and the guy that said 2,700 were on the same page at that point. I'd like to do it myself, but I'm not sure if I have the experience yet to tackle that one.
I don't mind buying a delete kit honestly, it's the labor that's going to kick my ***.
Kind of what I'm thinking, cause I'd have to weld one in on the up-pipe in the back as well right?
But as far as what the guys at Ford told me does that seem correct? The intake wasn't wet, it was just straight piles of soot. If the EGR cooler was actually leaking wouldn't it be wet? They told me on most of the trucks that are out of warranty that they do deletes on, they order the kit from Jegs, and apparently they leave the valve in place so it will pass a visual test. Looking at the kits available from Jegs I guess it's one from BD diesel.
Also, what exactly is a stealth delete? Is that just welding the plugs in the cooler?
A quote of $2,700 sounds like a screw job to me. Even $1,400 is a bit high unless it includes parts (good ones). If you did a "stealth delete" by having a plug welded in your cooler and re-install it you could do it yourself and put fresh coolant in it for a couple hundred or even less. If you going to pay someone, it does take a few hours and mechanics ain't cheap.
But as far as what the guys at Ford told me does that seem correct? The intake wasn't wet, it was just straight piles of soot. If the EGR cooler was actually leaking wouldn't it be wet? They told me on most of the trucks that are out of warranty that they do deletes on, they order the kit from Jegs, and apparently they leave the valve in place so it will pass a visual test. Looking at the kits available from Jegs I guess it's one from BD diesel.
Also, what exactly is a stealth delete? Is that just welding the plugs in the cooler?
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#8
If you're going to delte the EGR cooler like I do on most 6.0s I deal with I would use the Sinister kit from Clay @ riffraff diesel
Riffraff Diesel: Sinister EGR Valve / Cooler Delete
Go on youtube and look and there should be a could videos on it and it's honestly not that bad at all to do, if it's your first time maybe 5-6 hours going slow.
Riffraff Diesel: Sinister EGR Valve / Cooler Delete
Go on youtube and look and there should be a could videos on it and it's honestly not that bad at all to do, if it's your first time maybe 5-6 hours going slow.
#9
Dry soot is normal ..... and a LOT better than sticky or wet soot! However, I do agree that excessive soot is not good - and an investigation is warranted.
Are you having any performance issues? Plenty of power and decent throttle response? How about excessive exhaust smoke? Fuel economy OK? I assume no codes or CEL? If all these are good, then the cleaning might be all that you need. I realize that Ford no longer authorizes EGR valve cleaning, but no doubt it can be a help.
You may want to do a quick check on your EBP (depending on model year), MAP, and BARO readings at KOEO. With that much soot, I would also remove and clean the MAP hose and the EBP tube. Also, take a look at FICM volts to make sure it is plenty healthy (helps combustion efficiency). I also like to use a cetane boost for the fuel.
Are you having any performance issues? Plenty of power and decent throttle response? How about excessive exhaust smoke? Fuel economy OK? I assume no codes or CEL? If all these are good, then the cleaning might be all that you need. I realize that Ford no longer authorizes EGR valve cleaning, but no doubt it can be a help.
You may want to do a quick check on your EBP (depending on model year), MAP, and BARO readings at KOEO. With that much soot, I would also remove and clean the MAP hose and the EBP tube. Also, take a look at FICM volts to make sure it is plenty healthy (helps combustion efficiency). I also like to use a cetane boost for the fuel.
#12
If you're going to delte the EGR cooler like I do on most 6.0s I deal with I would use the Sinister kit from Clay @ riffraff diesel
Riffraff Diesel: Sinister EGR Valve / Cooler Delete
Is there anyway to leave the valve plugged in? I've heard that can cause different problems with the cooling fan or something if the valve isn't connected, or maybe I was misreading?
Go on youtube and look and there should be a could videos on it and it's honestly not that bad at all to do, if it's your first time maybe 5-6 hours going slow.
Riffraff Diesel: Sinister EGR Valve / Cooler Delete
Is there anyway to leave the valve plugged in? I've heard that can cause different problems with the cooling fan or something if the valve isn't connected, or maybe I was misreading?
Go on youtube and look and there should be a could videos on it and it's honestly not that bad at all to do, if it's your first time maybe 5-6 hours going slow.
Dry soot is normal ..... and a LOT better than sticky or wet soot! However, I do agree that excessive soot is not good - and an investigation is warranted.
Exactly, so whatever I end up doing I will for sure be removing the intake for a good clean. Just figured while I'm down there if the price is right I might as well delete the EGR all together so I don't have to worry about this again.
Are you having any performance issues? Plenty of power and decent throttle response? How about excessive exhaust smoke? Fuel economy OK? I assume no codes or CEL? If all these are good, then the cleaning might be all that you need. I realize that Ford no longer authorizes EGR valve cleaning, but no doubt it can be a help.
For a while now it seems to have a sluggish throttle response at times, it's kind of random. It's hard to explain, just like the pedal feels real heavy and like I don't have much reserved power, if that makes sense? After cleaning the valve yesterday and sucking up as much of that soot as I could, it kind of felt a little more responsive. Not much smoke, other than a little before the turbo spools up but it's always done that since the straight pipe. As far as fuel economy, it blows. The gauge says 10.6, I can usually squeeze about 330 miles out of a tank. No codes or CEL.
You may want to do a quick check on your EBP (depending on model year), MAP, and BARO readings at KOEO. With that much soot, I would also remove and clean the MAP hose and the EBP tube. Also, take a look at FICM volts to make sure it is plenty healthy (helps combustion efficiency). I also like to use a cetane boost for the fuel.
Exactly, so whatever I end up doing I will for sure be removing the intake for a good clean. Just figured while I'm down there if the price is right I might as well delete the EGR all together so I don't have to worry about this again.
Are you having any performance issues? Plenty of power and decent throttle response? How about excessive exhaust smoke? Fuel economy OK? I assume no codes or CEL? If all these are good, then the cleaning might be all that you need. I realize that Ford no longer authorizes EGR valve cleaning, but no doubt it can be a help.
For a while now it seems to have a sluggish throttle response at times, it's kind of random. It's hard to explain, just like the pedal feels real heavy and like I don't have much reserved power, if that makes sense? After cleaning the valve yesterday and sucking up as much of that soot as I could, it kind of felt a little more responsive. Not much smoke, other than a little before the turbo spools up but it's always done that since the straight pipe. As far as fuel economy, it blows. The gauge says 10.6, I can usually squeeze about 330 miles out of a tank. No codes or CEL.
You may want to do a quick check on your EBP (depending on model year), MAP, and BARO readings at KOEO. With that much soot, I would also remove and clean the MAP hose and the EBP tube. Also, take a look at FICM volts to make sure it is plenty healthy (helps combustion efficiency). I also like to use a cetane boost for the fuel.
skidoor, the truck is a 2005. Is there no way the dealer can just turn the CEL off? I don't really wanna get into tuning until I do studs later on down the road.
#14
You can call PHP, last time I checked they were selling one-off PCM rollbacks with the EGR deleted for $150. It's cheaper than buying a tuner just to kill the CEL and it's not a "tune" for more power.
#15
I was in the same position as you before and I'm very happy I deleted my EGR, it's one less thing that can break. My truck now has 154k miles on original headgaskets and bolts and I run Matt's SRL as my daily driver with no problems.