You can't use gauges and measure high and low pressures to determine if it's charged correctly ?

 

You can get close, but you will never know for sure.
In the Az Desert the refrigerant expands and contracts so much that you can be fine one day (nice and cool) and not have enough the next day (sweating your butt off). IIRC the whole system holds just shy of 5 lbs of r134a... like 4 and 1/4 pounds or so... the sticker under the hood can tell you exactly though, and I am not going to get off my butt and walk out there to look at mine.
If you go the individual can route don't get the stop leak as all that does is plug stuff up...

 

yep, it's 4 1/4.

 

FWIW, had the same issue.
There was blockage at the Expansion Valve, but also had cracked rear lines.
Surprisingly - the blockage wasn't letting the Freon escape. But had to replace both lines going to the rear, plus the expansion valve. Plus the normal stuff dryer filter etc..
Wound up being close to a $1000 in parts repair. Granted I took mine to the dealership, but they did give me the same parts costs when I showed then that Orielly had the same Motocraft parts for the A/C systems (cheaper than they were trying to sell them to me...)

 

Just an FYI - the orifice tube connection under the hood requires a special tool. It looks similar to the tools used to remove fuel lines,etc but it's just a little larger size. If you open everything up to replace the other items, you might as well replace the drier - fairly inexpensive and easy to do. On mine the orifice tube was clogged and the rear expansion valve was clogged. The holes in the expansion valve are very small and it doesn't take much to clog them up.

 

Was you compressor bad? That's what usually causes the debris in there.

 

Thanks for that. Yeah, the AC needs to be perfect here in AZ.
Mine works pretty good front and back except for one thing;
The previous owner had a tv screen installed and whoever hung it cut into the ducts that run to the middle row vents.
So, now I need to drop the headliner and fix it. It still blows a little, but most air disappears between the headliner and roof.
The actual fix isn't bad, but im not looking forward to dropping the headliner.
Plus I need to get on it before it gets too hot to comfortably work on it.

 

How about a bad temp blend door motor? When you change the rear temp from cold to hot, do you feel any change in temp? Ford blend door motors problems are common on most, not sure on Ex.

 

Nope - it's going strong. The debris almost looked like cardboard but it doesn't take much to clog that fine mesh screen on the tube.

 

Not sure if you replied to me but, no it's not the blend door. I took off the rear right cover and checked all doors. All work ok.
It's the duct work. I took off the overhead monitor and can see where they cut open the duct work.
Need to take the headliner down. Anyone done that ?

 

My post was actually for robbragiel.

 

When I did my Sisters Excursion, some one had replaced the compressor before they bought it, but not flushed the system. The orifice tube was packed with little tan pieces. I talked to my mechanic and he said that was the guts of the compressor and that is what the seals in the compressor is made of.

 

Sorry, I thought this was for the OP. Yes when I change from cold to hot the air does get hot. That was the first thing I checked.

 

The other day I needed the jack from the rear compartment since my trailer tire blew up in a million pieces. I noticed two things in the rear compartment;
1 there was some water dripping down and
2 I feel it blowing air downwards into the compartment.
Sounds like something is open/cracked there?

 

Has anyone changed the Thermostatic Expansion Valve (TXV)? I looked in the fan motor compartment in the rear and I am not clear where the location is and what has to come out to get to it. Please advise or a picture would be nice.