Do you have the vacuum diagram for it?

 

The pile I was talking about

 

You still need the brake booster and HVAC controls that come off the tree at the back of the intake manifold.

You need to find the little vacuum restrictor (plastic orifice) that goes into the yellow thermal switch that controls the distributor.
Full manifold vacuum goes to the bottom of that yellow switch, to increase the idle speed if idling and overheating.

The PVC is that metal line in the center of your 4th photo.
No need to move it.

There should be a vacuum diagram on your radiator support.
That will tell you how everything is supposed to be connected.

 

 

Forget about the bottom two photos. That's all evaporative emissions and A.I.R. injection stuff.
You'll need to block off where crossover bolts to the back of the heads.

 

The vac adv is still hooked. I unhooked one line on the back of the intake. It was connected to one of the canisters up in front of the truck for the evap system. I'm assuming I can just plug that with a regular vac plug correct?

 

Any ideas on how to do that in a clean professional manor?

 

Looks very similar to my '87.
I don't know what your calibration code is.

 

The bottom port of the yellow valve has to go to manifold vacuum. the other port SHOULD have a little plastic flag in it.

Windsors take a 5/8-11 bolt, I'm not sure about the 460.
I had to have mine smogged every year, so it's still connected.

 

You can see from the diagrams that the EGR gets ported (or 'timed') vacuum from the white line on the side of the carb through the blue thermal control valve, and then through the vacuum delay valve (VDV).

 

Ok so by running the manifold vac to the bottom of the yellow valve, that is supplying that valve with vac, is that correct? And thank you by the way

 

So, should I just do away with the EGR? I'm getting some pretty conflicting opinions on this subject.

I missed the white line coming off the carb in the diagram. So I need to make sure that the EGR is supplied with vac from that carb? Forgive me for my ignorance

 

You're welcome.
It's supplying FULL vacuum to advance the timing and increase idle speed when hot.
In the diagram you can see "VREST" at the top port, that is a little plastic Restriction, that is normally controlling the distributor advance.

 

You can if you want, but you will need a new intake manifold, re-calibrated carburetor and distributor to keep detonation at bay, and mileage will likely suffer.

Bill is the Expert at these things.
I'm sure he'll be back soon.

 

Ok. I'll just follow my original plan and keep it. I felt comfortable going that rout because of the detonation problems.