No...Javier..said he colapsed a rad hose twice.. and had engine damage..not related to the oil...the oil cooler stops working whith no water...runaway temps result..

 

oh, right. i got so lost in them going back and forth about amsoil that i forgot there was anything else in this thread.

 

I surely did kill it, 2x, built it 2x with no help from a single human except for the Machinest that did what was needed.

I dont use water in my cooling system cause that steam made for nuclear reactors not my truck.
Since I cant afford to pay a lousy mechanic I gots to do that crud my dang self.
I run EVANS so that eliminates a whole lotta BS work associated with H2O inside a hot engine with 3 or 4 different metals all making corrosion.

The first time everyone else blamed my WMO but they so stupid they dont listen. I was using the pump fuel thatsa all clean and stuff.

Both times it was non intercooled and I was hot rodding it like we should right? I aint grandpa yet and I know when I can go 80 mph.

Well lemme see what will 3800 rpm a C-6 with a gear vendor and 3.55 gear with 31 inch tires, how fast is that? Thats when I roasted the first time.
Actually took 3 months to realize that one but I remember the night I hauled butt.
A oil sample flagged me @ 7% fuel in the oil so I tore it down.

The second time I only did 80 and the dang thing skidded the tires down to 60 before it freed up.
When I got to the next light, tick tick tick tick wouldnt go away.

Well now it has made it this far and it killed the starter today

Intercooled and flex pipe in the lower hose did the trick this time.
Oh and head studs too!

Javier

 

Did the hose that collapsed have the coil spring that all lower hoses have, the steel coil spring? Just curious if I should think about modding mine- I like to run mine hard too....

 

No it didn't and it seems that thet dont sell hoses anymore with the spring. So I used flex exhaust pipe.


Javier

 

Been over a year since the last post, since then I have had a minor oil cooler leak that has cost me two gallons of oil/coolant but I have traveled over 25,000 miles since then, I have the oil cooler out, cleaned up and made my first attempt to push the end back on and failed, time to make room around the press.

have not used my glow plugs once since this engine has been built. some mystery as to why it wont work, easier to plug it in and wait till it is warm, much better for my wallet on fuel consumption.
I can start the engine wide open if I need to without worrying the cylinders getting worn from a cold start and thick no flowing oil.

I had to clear out my shop completely, sold it, 15,000 sqft lot, me and my IDI completed the mission.

When I needed her the most it did not let me down.

My friend has a 6.7 Ford F-250 he needed a new engine, it exploded

 

Just an anecdotal story I figured I'd add: During last winter, I was out of oil, but had a gallon of Royal Purple 5w-30 synthetic I'd been given. I dumped it in, figuring it wouldn't hurt anything.
It didn't *hurt* anything, per se, but the engine started leaking from just about every weeping seal on the engine, and did so until it got diluted with enough 15W-40 to remove the detergents.
I'm betting that with a good set of seals and such, it would have been just fine... But with horribly worn seals, where the only thing preventing leaks is built-up grease...

 

Maccrob hit it. In my research i have found syn causes leaks because of its cleaning ability and its ability to hold contaminates in suspension. Add syn and get a seal leak ? The syn has cleaned the crud at the seal. Im not a oil specialest or any thing but with 14 years of working for advance auto parts and hearing the syn/conventional issue i set out one day and researched diging up what i could. I would say its more about changing your oil like your supposed to than what brand you use. Once the oils ability to hold contaminates in suspension has been used up they get deposited else where. So change your oil or have it tested at least. I just turn the bottle around so my truck cant see what im pouring in it. Afraid to mix them? Dont be you can buy it off the shelf all ready mixed. Synthetic blend. People are always worried about switching. Ive switched and had no ill effects any any of my vehicals.

 

Well that is a good way of looking at it! good job searching for some truth!

I have changed tons of leaking seals in vehicles with no synthetic oils, they never bitched that the oil caused it.
But in reality the oil did cause it, even if you change oil it does not matter.

many seals operate at the very edges of the engine, they only receive splash lubrication and have to take the heat of the engine, as the rubber/Viton whatever they use begins to heat up the lubricant will bake onto the seal until enough cake/rocks/carbon cuts a groove into the seal surface to cause the leak. Great way to keep repeat business! Sell the customers Conventional oil that turns to smoke and contaminate around 250F and you have a sure bet a seal will give up pretty soon.

If you start with a new engine and a lubricant that wont turn to smoke/carbon at such a low temp then the seal will never have layers of burnt carbon on it cutting grooves into your seal surfaces.

What I cant believe is I don't have pictures to show this, well I have a couple but I have to dig deep to find them.

if you want take a magnifying glass to a old seal and carefully look at the inside of it, it will have baked carbon on it. That will get you a leak and a happy Mechanic!

 

Even if you do everything right, I'm not convinced a seal will last 25 years and several-hundred-thousand-miles without wearing out; especially ones made with 25-year-old technology.

brokeasajoke, isn't this what the filter is for? If your filters aren't doing a good enough job of filtering, I'd expect this sort of issue... which is why, for long oil life, you need good filters.

 

Yep they are but what ever is smaller than the filter will filter the oil will hold in suspension instead of sticking to the inside of your engine. I have seen oil that has been recycled an it is no longer black but crystal clear before its additave package was put with it. Just a note - we use api service codes starting with "C" ie cj, ci. You will see the "s" ie. sj, sm, sn. C is for compression ignition and s is for spark ignition. I wouldnt call that gospel but its a good way to read the api code.

 

496,000 miles and he only changes the oil, wow your truck was built on TEUSDAY!