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  #46  
Old 04-28-2013, 12:16 AM
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speedwrench72 speedwrench72 is offline
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No...Javier..said he colapsed a rad hose twice.. and had engine damage..not related to the oil...the oil cooler stops working whith no water...runaway temps result..
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  #47  
Old 04-28-2013, 12:18 AM
joshofalltrades joshofalltrades is offline
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oh, right. i got so lost in them going back and forth about amsoil that i forgot there was anything else in this thread.
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  #48  
Old 04-28-2013, 12:49 AM
idiabuse idiabuse is offline
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Coolant

I surely did kill it, 2x, built it 2x with no help from a single human except for the Machinest that did what was needed.

I dont use water in my cooling system cause that steam made for nuclear reactors not my truck.
Since I cant afford to pay a lousy mechanic I gots to do that crud my dang self.
I run EVANS so that eliminates a whole lotta BS work associated with H2O inside a hot engine with 3 or 4 different metals all making corrosion.

The first time everyone else blamed my WMO but they so stupid they dont listen. I was using the pump fuel thatsa all clean and stuff.

Both times it was non intercooled and I was hot rodding it like we should right? I aint grandpa yet and I know when I can go 80 mph.

Well lemme see what will 3800 rpm a C-6 with a gear vendor and 3.55 gear with 31 inch tires, how fast is that? Thats when I roasted the first time.
Actually took 3 months to realize that one but I remember the night I hauled butt.
A oil sample flagged me @ 7% fuel in the oil so I tore it down.

The second time I only did 80 and the dang thing skidded the tires down to 60 before it freed up.
When I got to the next light, tick tick tick tick wouldnt go away.

Well now it has made it this far and it killed the starter today

Intercooled and flex pipe in the lower hose did the trick this time.
Oh and head studs too!

Javier
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  #49  
Old 04-28-2013, 11:25 AM
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dsltech83 dsltech83 is offline
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Did the hose that collapsed have the coil spring that all lower hoses have, the steel coil spring? Just curious if I should think about modding mine- I like to run mine hard too....
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  #50  
Old 04-28-2013, 09:25 PM
idiabuse idiabuse is offline
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Originally Posted by dsltech83 View Post
Did the hose that collapsed have the coil spring that all lower hoses have, the steel coil spring? Just curious if I should think about modding mine- I like to run mine hard too....
No it didn't and it seems that thet dont sell hoses anymore with the spring. So I used flex exhaust pipe.


Javier
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  #51  
Old 07-20-2014, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by idiabuse View Post
No it didn't and it seems that thet dont sell hoses anymore with the spring. So I used flex exhaust pipe.


Javier
Been over a year since the last post, since then I have had a minor oil cooler leak that has cost me two gallons of oil/coolant but I have traveled over 25,000 miles since then, I have the oil cooler out, cleaned up and made my first attempt to push the end back on and failed, time to make room around the press.

have not used my glow plugs once since this engine has been built. some mystery as to why it wont work, easier to plug it in and wait till it is warm, much better for my wallet on fuel consumption.
I can start the engine wide open if I need to without worrying the cylinders getting worn from a cold start and thick no flowing oil.

I had to clear out my shop completely, sold it, 15,000 sqft lot, me and my IDI completed the mission.

When I needed her the most it did not let me down.

My friend has a 6.7 Ford F-250 he needed a new engine, it exploded
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  #52  
Old 07-20-2014, 12:36 PM
Macrobb Macrobb is offline
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Just an anecdotal story I figured I'd add: During last winter, I was out of oil, but had a gallon of Royal Purple 5w-30 synthetic I'd been given. I dumped it in, figuring it wouldn't hurt anything.
It didn't *hurt* anything, per se, but the engine started leaking from just about every weeping seal on the engine, and did so until it got diluted with enough 15W-40 to remove the detergents.
I'm betting that with a good set of seals and such, it would have been just fine... But with horribly worn seals, where the only thing preventing leaks is built-up grease...
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  #53  
Old 07-21-2014, 08:38 AM
brokeasajoke brokeasajoke is offline
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Maccrob hit it. In my research i have found syn causes leaks because of its cleaning ability and its ability to hold contaminates in suspension. Add syn and get a seal leak ? The syn has cleaned the crud at the seal. Im not a oil specialest or any thing but with 14 years of working for advance auto parts and hearing the syn/conventional issue i set out one day and researched diging up what i could. I would say its more about changing your oil like your supposed to than what brand you use. Once the oils ability to hold contaminates in suspension has been used up they get deposited else where. So change your oil or have it tested at least. I just turn the bottle around so my truck cant see what im pouring in it. Afraid to mix them? Dont be you can buy it off the shelf all ready mixed. Synthetic blend. People are always worried about switching. Ive switched and had no ill effects any any of my vehicals.
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  #54  
Old 07-21-2014, 03:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brokeasajoke View Post
Maccrob hit it. In my research i have found syn causes leaks because of its cleaning ability and its ability to hold contaminates in suspension. Add syn and get a seal leak ? The syn has cleaned the crud at the seal. Im not a oil specialest or any thing but with 14 years of working for advance auto parts and hearing the syn/conventional issue i set out one day and researched diging up what i could. I would say its more about changing your oil like your supposed to than what brand you use. Once the oils ability to hold contaminates in suspension has been used up they get deposited else where. So change your oil or have it tested at least. I just turn the bottle around so my truck cant see what im pouring in it. Afraid to mix them? Dont be you can buy it off the shelf all ready mixed. Synthetic blend. People are always worried about switching. Ive switched and had no ill effects any any of my vehicals.
Well that is a good way of looking at it! good job searching for some truth!

I have changed tons of leaking seals in vehicles with no synthetic oils, they never bitched that the oil caused it.
But in reality the oil did cause it, even if you change oil it does not matter.

many seals operate at the very edges of the engine, they only receive splash lubrication and have to take the heat of the engine, as the rubber/Viton whatever they use begins to heat up the lubricant will bake onto the seal until enough cake/rocks/carbon cuts a groove into the seal surface to cause the leak. Great way to keep repeat business! Sell the customers Conventional oil that turns to smoke and contaminate around 250F and you have a sure bet a seal will give up pretty soon.

If you start with a new engine and a lubricant that wont turn to smoke/carbon at such a low temp then the seal will never have layers of burnt carbon on it cutting grooves into your seal surfaces.

What I cant believe is I don't have pictures to show this, well I have a couple but I have to dig deep to find them.

if you want take a magnifying glass to a old seal and carefully look at the inside of it, it will have baked carbon on it. That will get you a leak and a happy Mechanic!
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  #55  
Old 07-21-2014, 09:59 PM
Macrobb Macrobb is offline
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Even if you do everything right, I'm not convinced a seal will last 25 years and several-hundred-thousand-miles without wearing out; especially ones made with 25-year-old technology.

brokeasajoke, isn't this what the filter is for? If your filters aren't doing a good enough job of filtering, I'd expect this sort of issue... which is why, for long oil life, you need good filters.
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  #56  
Old 07-22-2014, 08:22 AM
brokeasajoke brokeasajoke is offline
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Yep they are but what ever is smaller than the filter will filter the oil will hold in suspension instead of sticking to the inside of your engine. I have seen oil that has been recycled an it is no longer black but crystal clear before its additave package was put with it. Just a note - we use api service codes starting with "C" ie cj, ci. You will see the "s" ie. sj, sm, sn. C is for compression ignition and s is for spark ignition. I wouldnt call that gospel but its a good way to read the api code.
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  #57  
Old 07-23-2014, 11:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tjc transport View Post
their sales technique, and the fact they will not submit their oils for rating. their trust what we tell you about it, we know what we sell is good just don't cut it for me.

also, when i have a "salesman" telling me that their oil is the best thing since buttered bread and if i don't use it my engine will not last. well, i only use valvoline all fleet 15-40 in my vehicles. this same amsoil salesman has never gotten more than 5 years and 100,000 miles out of a vehicle before blowing them up.
my 88 now has over 496,000 miles on it and is still in excellent condition.
496,000 miles and he only changes the oil, wow your truck was built on TEUSDAY!
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Old 07-23-2014, 11:39 AM
 
 
 
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