Hey guys I am new and need some help! I have read about a thousand different posts and cannot find the solution for mine.
I have noticed of the last several months that whenever I would get on the pedal to pass or enter and interstate I would have a little less power than I used to and an SES light but that was it. No smoke or anything. After normal driving for a few minutes the light would go out and all would be fine. I chalked it up to oil leaks as I was tracking down several. I thought I had gotten all of the oil leaks and then developed a water leak. About two weeks ago the truck shut off on me as I was crossing the road. I could not get it started and had to replace both the batteries as they were bad. I then replace the CPS to no avail. As I was trying to crank the truck my high pressure line to the drivers side fell apart. I had the truck towed home, replaced the line, and replaced the fuel pump. The truck started up but since then, whenever I accelerate and the RPMs get to 1800 I get black smoke and no power. Once I let off the accelerator and the RPMs drop the smoke clears up. I have plenty of power once I get into 4th gear until I climb a hill or the RPMs get up to or above 1800. At this point while maintaining a high RPM, the truck sputters every so often and once in a while I will hear a popping sound. I do not get black smoke while maintaining speed just accelerating.
I have changed the ICP and the IPR and have done the 50 cent modification to no avail.
Any help would be appreciated.

P.S. Truck is completely stock with no mods (except 50 cent) and 257,000 miles.

 

Do u have the codes? Have you looked in the tank to do the intank mods. Could be blocked screens. How about boost leaks, no air black smoke.

 

Have not looked in the tank. Codes are P1211, P0603, P1280. How do I check for boost leaks?

Also used the scanner at motorpool on base and got the following
At Idle
ICP Duty Cycle: ~13%
ICP voltage: ~.8
IPR Duty Cycle ~13%
PSI ~500

At 2000 RPM
ICP Duty Cycle: ~29%
ICP voltage: ~1.5
IPR Duty Cycle ~29%
PSI ~1000

 

Aaahh... data (insert Homer pork chop gurgle here). I love the stuff... I get such a high.

Your injectors could be due (if you are still on the originals). I don't say that just because of the miles. You are "leaking" oil... but I bet you're burning more than you're dripping. Your IPR is too high for that ICP, so you have a bad ICP sensor or IPR (you alread swapped this in persuit of the others on the list), bad HPOP, bad ICP leak, bad injector O-rings, bad injectors, air in fuel, or maybe a combination of 2 or three of those... but old sticks and air in fuel are at the top of the suspect list. Oil may be bypassing the old O-rings and getting into you fuel. The poppets are allowing ICP to ooze around to the drain. Heaven help you if I'm right about the sticks and you need to start in the cold with dead dinos.

You mentioned a popping sound, I don't recognize this. You also mention a coolant leak, please say that was to the ground - not just a mystery loss of coolant. The black soot on the higher torque could be an exhaust leak. Look for soot anywhere under the hood... and I mean really look. Up pipes commonly go by now, but it's a good idea to inspect every piece of exhaust before the turbo for soot. Soot = leak = high EGTs (possible popping source), low power, and smoke out the pipe.

Boost leak is another possibility, Trey will likely pop in and share his video of a boost leak test procedure.

I have a hunch Hutch will help with higher RPMs. You very likely have air being drawn into the fuel through the quick-disconnect fittings... and I bet the worst of your problems are when you reach 1/4-tank or lower. If I'm correct, keeping the fuel level higher should help with some of your symptoms.

 

The coolant leak was from the water pump weep hole. New water pump fixed that problem. I have been checking over the last day or two and haven't noticed any more oil leaks although it is hard since I still have oil in the vee from changing IPR and pressure lines.
I did an oil change two days ago (hoping to help) and switched to AMSOIL with a WIX filter.

 

What is the API rating? The HEUI system is real picky about the oil... we all use CJ4 for turbodiesels. I have used Mobile1 and Rotella T6, both are synthetic 5-40.

Reading up on Amsoil ($37/gallon) I found this line:

Note: Extended drain intervals are not recommended when using biofuels containing >10% ethanol or 5% biodiesel (B5). Follow OEM drain intervals or extend drain intervals with oil analysis.

Washington state has B5, whether we want it or not. I seem to recall this was a federal mandate... but it will take more research to suss this out.

 

API is CJ-4, CI-4+

 

Exhaust/boost leak tests/inspection would be my first approach to this problem, then I would do the Hutch mod. Have you noticed any difference between above or below 1/4 tank?

 

I have noticed a slight difference. I just got below quarter tank so I will keep watching that.

 

No difference with low tank that I noticed. I did however just use a mirror and saw drops of oil coming from the bottom of the HPOP. Would that explain anything.?