i going to use this pump. think it fits our requirement better.

Brushless (BLDC) Rollervane (Part number depends on product configuration) - Vibration resistant brushless Rollervane electric fuel pump suitable with ULSD, B5, B20 and B100 fuels



good thing that they run these on i think the 24 valve cummins in dodge trucks, so it is readily avaible for replacement.

 

To maintain selector valve use i would run two pumps and two regulators before the fsv. The regulators will return the extra fuel before it gets to the selector valve. It easier than routing from the regulator at the engine, and it allows you to return to the tank your are actually using.

To run the pump do some work with a multimeter on the fsv to see what is hot depending on the selected tank and 3 relays. 2 off the selector valve and one main one that will trigger via the fss.

Atleast that is what i would do.

 

i am still running the factory filter head......want to do filters down on the frame as some point though.

 

just bypass your FSV. dump it in your front tank. when the front is empty, it will refill the front with the rear. Thats how mine runs.

 

would i have to worry about over filling the front or anything like that?

 

I wanted to run a filter before the pump to help protect it, and running two pumps and regulators is expensive.

 

ok. i was thinking about this more and saw your post in your thread on PSN about your set up.....so you have both tanks full, run the front tank until empty or close to empty, switch to the full rear tank. meanwhile the dedicated return from the regulator is refilling the front tank? Do you just flip back to the front tank to see when you can start running off of it again? is there a risk of over filling the front tank if you don't flip back in time? Not really a big deal when i am driving, but if my dad or somebody drove it they might not pay attention.....


what did you do for dumping the hose into the fuel tank? drop tank and install a fitting in the tank?

 

Front tank, on mine is 19 gallon, rear is 16, it shouldn't overflow.

 

You shouldn't have to drop the front tank to put a fitting on it for the return line. You can get to the top of it good enough iirc

 

I think my owners manual says my tanks are 19 & 19 or 19 &18. i would have to look to make sure though.

 

why did you go with such a high pressure e-pump?

 

took keep up with demand. i know my set-up is not high performance by any means, but lately it seems as though the duralift is not able to keep up with cranked up turbo/IP engines.

 

33 GPH & 9 - 11.5 PSI.
if you could even burn that much,a 460 gas engine would clean your clock with fuel economy.
id suspect someone who claims a carrier doesn't provide enough fuel for any db2 ip has other issues at hand.
i think you made a lot of unnecessary work for yourself but best of luck.

 

fuel pressure dropping to 0psi when getting on it hard...pump failures...is why i didn't go duralfit as well.

 

I will say this about the duralift.... 33gph on paper is plenty for a 7.3 injection pump, at 100% efficiency, maxed out. However, It looks to me like the Duralift might be a little inconsistant in its flow numbers. I have read a lot about duralift users not getting the flow out of them.

I can say that I had decent enough luck with the Mr. Gasket green, and its rated for 35gph, and thats on an IP that will flow more fuel through it than any IDI pump out there.

I think Eric is after consistant fuel supply, which is a very overlooked situation. Most are not interested in it, and understandably so, but I think Eric has a few mods planned that really should have a consistant supply of fuel. It cant hurt, its just a few more dollars for a better setup. No reason to cling to old junk if you want some real performance out of a setup.