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  #1  
Old 04-16-2013, 04:28 PM
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35's - Stock F250, and wheel offset

Hey guys,
I found the wheels I wanna throw on my truck, got prices, and some tires lined up. First of all will these rims fit onto my truck without any rubbing issues? What exactly does this offset mean?

Fuel Hostage
Part# D53018901750
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Finish: Chrome
Size: 18x9
Offset: 1
BP: 8x170


Price (4): $1049
Shipping: Free
Secondly will 35's fit under my truck even if it is a fully stock 2011, F250?

I got some 35x12.50x18 Federal MT for only $919 lined up, but not sure if they are much good.

Thanks for any help!
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  #2  
Old 04-16-2013, 06:45 PM
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Offset is just how far the rim will stick out. Stock is around +44, negative offset will be a rim that sticks out pass the fenders. Not sure about fitting stock height though, I think you might be ok with 9 inch wide and +1 offset. If you installed a leveling kit it would fit for sure.
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Old 04-16-2013, 09:52 PM
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I know some guys have said they run 35's without a leveling kit, but I know I have a 2.5" leveling kit, snow plow springs and I still rub with my 35's from time to time. I'd get a leveling kit for sure.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:03 PM
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ahh okay thanks both you guys, I am going with a BDS 4-link 6" lift, but I thought I'd tackle one thing at a time to ease my bank account , I just wanted to make sure these rims will actually fit once the lift is one the truck is all, I have no idea about offsets , but thanks for clarifying that up!
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey350 View Post
ahh okay thanks both you guys, I am going with a BDS 4-link 6" lift, but I thought I'd tackle one thing at a time to ease my bank account , I just wanted to make sure these rims will actually fit once the lift is one the truck is all, I have no idea about offsets , but thanks for clarifying that up!
I would do whatever you can to wait and do the lift before I did anything else. You might burn up a set of tires in between anyway.
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Old 04-16-2013, 10:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SavageNFS View Post
I would do whatever you can to wait and do the lift before I did anything else. You might burn up a set of tires in between anyway.
Yeah that is my plan so far, I have to speak for the set and rims though, back ordered 6 weeks, which also hurts a little!
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  #7  
Old 04-17-2013, 07:51 AM
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Nice wheels, I have the black/machined Hostage in 20x10
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  #8  
Old 04-17-2013, 08:04 AM
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I also have 18x9 Fuel wheels in +1mm offset, the D525 model but otherwise mechanical specs are similar... so they will stick out past the fenders about 1.5 to 2" which is nicely coverable with fender flares if so desired. For me that was out of necessity since I got tired of having to clean the side windows all the time.

I got my tires to fit with just a coil spacer and block level kit since my original scope of work was to replace the tires, and that's the lowest cost method of getting it to fit mechanically, but yeah for ride quality and articulation improvement and reduced axle wrap I do want to do the BDS 4-link conversion with rear leaf spring replacement someday... and then that will probably make my tires look small again. Of course if you can afford to do it all at once then that will probably yield the best looking results, but for me it's just a fun thing and I did the tires first because they offer the biggest improvement in vehicle operation. It's a never-ending project anyway, can't ever leave good enough alone. If I got 37" tires I would probably be wanting 40"s in 2 weeks lol. However I notice tire selection starts dwindling rapidly and prices go up rapidly when you get into those sizes.
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1994 RAM 2500 - SLT Laramie 4x4 RCLB 5.9L 6BT NV4500 (Project)
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  #9  
Old 04-17-2013, 10:12 AM
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I was running 35x12.50x20 stock height with a 9 wide rim and +18mm offset.
It fit great BUT it was sticking out about an inch past the fender.
I had to get fender flares. Eventually I got a 2" front leveling kit.
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  #10  
Old 04-18-2013, 04:51 PM
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Thanks guys! I got a quote for a 6" 4 link BDS suspension, so it will be here in a few weeks, and depending on how seeding goes, I may or may not have time to get it on before the wheels come, or I will just do it all at once.
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  #11  
Old 04-18-2013, 07:54 PM
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I run 35's (toyo open country 285/75/18 there 34.8") on my 2011 stock 250 and dont rub. But if they were a wider tire they might. I think they fit perfect. Funny though how low the truck is though with a 35" tire on, I know that my 04 350 on 32" (235/85/16) had better ground clearance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SavageNFS View Post
I know some guys have said they run 35's without a leveling kit, but I know I have a 2.5" leveling kit, snow plow springs and I still rub with my 35's from time to time. I'd get a leveling kit for sure.
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey350 View Post
Thanks guys! I got a quote for a 6" 4 link BDS suspension, so it will be here in a few weeks, and depending on how seeding goes, I may or may not have time to get it on before the wheels come, or I will just do it all at once.
Let us know how it goes, I'm still on the fence between the 4" or the 6" 4-link system... 4" is only 0.5" more than what I have with the spacers so not much of a difference but probably more of an improvement in ride and articulation... 6" will probably make 35" O.D. tires look small in the wheel wells though.
I just don't want to get something and then want to change it out again like I am already lol, although I do enjoy working on the truck - for me it's not necessarily the end result, it's the tinkering that is more fun. (I'm not sure what the end result should be anyway)
The price difference between the two kits is minimal (and really there are only a few parts that differ between them - coil springs, box 2 of 2 hardware kit, shock absorbers - rest of the part numbers are identical) for about a few hundred bucks difference on around $2300 then freight charge for shipping from Saskatoon since the parts are heavy.
Well I already bought a pitman arm puller so maybe I am leaning towards one already .

I was emailing BDS about how the bump stops work with the leaf springs if it doesn't use any spacer blocks (which have the integral tabs that stick out to contact the bump stops), so if you're looking at the kit that might make more sense. They say the replacement springs have 20% better payload capacity than the OEM ones (but then again OEM springs came in several varieties too...).

Are you planning on replacing the brake lines along with this project? I think with some creative bracketing and re-bending the hard line, the original brake lines can be reused but this would be a good excuse to switch to stainless braided.

My hope with the rear leaf replacement, as opposed to add-a-leaf packs or blocks, is that it will greatly reduce or eliminate axle wrap / hop (which blocks do make worse), but if not maybe I need traction bars in addition to that.

Does anyone know if any adjustments need to be made to the front driveshaft when doing a 6" front lift? Any need to re-crimp the boot or anything?
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2011 F-350SD - SRW XLT FX4 CCLB: 6.7L PSD, 6R140, 3.55:1 EL, Job 2 (Daily Driver)
With BDS 6" 4-Link & Rear Leafs, Fox 2.0 IFP, Toyo MT 38x13.50R18 on 18x9 Fuel D525, Bulletproof Prerunner Bumper, EGR/DPF/SCR delete.

1994 RAM 2500 - SLT Laramie 4x4 RCLB 5.9L 6BT NV4500 (Project)
2009 Tundra - SR5 4x2 RCLB 5.7L 4.30:1 (Sold)
Others: 1995 F-350HD DRW 4x2 CCFB 7.3L-T444E PSD // 2004 F-350SD SRW 4x4 CCLB 6.0L-VT365 PSD.
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRENT310 View Post
Let us know how it goes, I'm still on the fence between the 4" or the 6" 4-link system... 4" is only 0.5" more than what I have with the spacers so not much of a difference but probably more of an improvement in ride and articulation... 6" will probably make 35" O.D. tires look small in the wheel wells though.
I just don't want to get something and then want to change it out again like I am already lol, although I do enjoy working on the truck - for me it's not necessarily the end result, it's the tinkering that is more fun. (I'm not sure what the end result should be anyway)
The price difference between the two kits is minimal (and really there are only a few parts that differ between them - coil springs, box 2 of 2 hardware kit, shock absorbers - rest of the part numbers are identical) for about a few hundred bucks difference on around $2300 then freight charge for shipping from Saskatoon since the parts are heavy.
Well I already bought a pitman arm puller so maybe I am leaning towards one already .

I was emailing BDS about how the bump stops work with the leaf springs if it doesn't use any spacer blocks (which have the integral tabs that stick out to contact the bump stops), so if you're looking at the kit that might make more sense. They say the replacement springs have 20% better payload capacity than the OEM ones (but then again OEM springs came in several varieties too...).

Are you planning on replacing the brake lines along with this project? I think with some creative bracketing and re-bending the hard line, the original brake lines can be reused but this would be a good excuse to switch to stainless braided.

My hope with the rear leaf replacement, as opposed to add-a-leaf packs or blocks, is that it will greatly reduce or eliminate axle wrap / hop (which blocks do make worse), but if not maybe I need traction bars in addition to that.

Does anyone know if any adjustments need to be made to the front driveshaft when doing a 6" front lift? Any need to re-crimp the boot or anything?
I got a qoute from tiger automotive here in Saskatoon today, let me say they are more than what BDS store online said, but they don't ship to Canada. I priced out Fox 2.0 shocks, dual 5500 steering stabilizers, and the drive shaft alignment kit, online it was $3558, and Tiger Automotive said $4100. I am getting a second quote tomorrow, but I figure it to be just about the same. These get expensive quick!

I would probably just keep stock brake lines if I can, I don't like doing too much more work than I would have to, or I guess spend more any money than I need to!

I am also curious about the front drive shaft adjustment too. I know a wheel alignment is another cost I will have to factor in as well.
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Old 04-18-2013, 11:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikey350 View Post
I got a qoute from tiger automotive here in Saskatoon today, let me say they are more than what BDS store online said, but they don't ship to Canada. I priced out Fox 2.0 shocks, dual 5500 steering stabilizers, and the drive shaft alignment kit, online it was $3558, and Tiger Automotive said $4100. I am getting a second quote tomorrow, but I figure it to be just about the same. These get expensive quick!

I would probably just keep stock brake lines if I can, I don't like doing too much more work than I would have to, or I guess spend more any money than I need to!

I am also curious about the front drive shaft adjustment too. I know a wheel alignment is another cost I will have to factor in as well.
Are you pricing this out as a installed job or just parts? I would just be getting parts. I would be getting it from Grandwest in Saskatoon hence the shipping. They're the same operation as Tiger I'm pretty sure. Yeah I have a long bed so I need the carrier bearing drop plates.
Doing Fox 2.0 shocks and 9500 steering stabilizer and boots for all of them.

Yeah the parts do get expensive quick, that's why I got the spacers and blocks - cheapest way to make the tires fit without rubbing, and sure it's working right now so I'm not in a big rush, but doing coil and leaf replacement would definitely be an improvement for sure.

I did a DIY "2x4 stud alignment" just to get it close before I took it to a shop to do it on a real machine and I was actually within a few degrees. But yeah it's probably a good idea to get that part done professionally, relatively inexpensive given the cost of everything else anyway, it's labour cost.
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2011 F-350SD - SRW XLT FX4 CCLB: 6.7L PSD, 6R140, 3.55:1 EL, Job 2 (Daily Driver)
With BDS 6" 4-Link & Rear Leafs, Fox 2.0 IFP, Toyo MT 38x13.50R18 on 18x9 Fuel D525, Bulletproof Prerunner Bumper, EGR/DPF/SCR delete.

1994 RAM 2500 - SLT Laramie 4x4 RCLB 5.9L 6BT NV4500 (Project)
2009 Tundra - SR5 4x2 RCLB 5.7L 4.30:1 (Sold)
Others: 1995 F-350HD DRW 4x2 CCFB 7.3L-T444E PSD // 2004 F-350SD SRW 4x4 CCLB 6.0L-VT365 PSD.
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TRENT310 View Post
Are you pricing this out as a installed job or just parts? I would just be getting parts. I would be getting it from Grandwest in Saskatoon hence the shipping. Yeah I have a long bed so I need the carrier bearing drop plates.
Doing Fox 2.0 shocks and 9500 steering stabilizer and boots for all of them.

Yeah the parts do get expensive quick, that's why I got the spacers and blocks - cheapest way to make the tires fit without rubbing, and sure it's working right now so I'm not in a big rush, but doing coil and leaf replacement would definitely be an improvement for sure.

I did a DIY "2x4 stud alignment" just to get it close before I took it to a shop to do it on a real machine and I was actually within a few degrees. But yeah it's probably a good idea to get that part done professionally, relatively inexpensive given the cost of everything else anyway, it's labour cost.
That is just the parts, I install and do all the labour my self on anything, how much better will grand west be than anywhere else? I got a buddy with an account I may be able to deal with through them, I will also price it out through them tomorrow, any prices you have found? Looks like we are getting the same options on the 4 link? My truck is also a short bed CC.
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Old 04-19-2013, 12:04 AM
 
 
 
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