Hello, I have a 92 Ford Bronco and I'm having a very common issue with the tailgate window. The only problem is that I have yet to find the real issue.

Problem:

• My dad and I have replaced the motor and everything else inside the tailgate with brand spankin' new parts.
  
• I also replaced the tailgate window button on the dash with a brand new one and it still won't budge. Also, there's nothing wrong with the window itself. I know it works because I've used two speaker wires to connect the tailgate's window motor directly to the battery and it goes up and down with zero problems. I'm assuming there's something wrong between the dash button and the actual tailgate, but I can't figure out what.
  
• Driver and passenger side windows work fine also.

Thanks for any all help!

 

You have a wiring problem, maybe a corroded wire or a loose ground, that's the only thing between the dash and the tailgate, wiring.

 

Oh, I forgot!, there are couple of switch latches in the tailgate, if these are broken or if the tailgate isn't fully closed the window won't go anywhere, it's a safety measure.

 

Do you have any pictures of these latches. Maybe that's the case because we did replace the motor inside the tailgate. I don't remember seeing any latches though.

 

Those are on each side of the tailgate. They grab the striker on each side.

 

My '96 EB Bronco has the same problem. Can't get the rear window down, so I can't open the back gate. I have to clean out the rear section and take everything out through the drivers door before I can remove the carpet panel and the cover to access the motor. Anyone have a pic and part number for the replacement latch switches?

Al

'96 EB Bronco with railroad wheel kit
'07 EB Explorer
'12 XLT Escape

 

theres a switch built into the striker/latch on the drivers side. it keeps you from moving the window when the gate is open. the contacts get worn and stay open. try leaning against the gate on the drivers side while operating the switch. the way your setup works is, both of the wires to the motor are normally ground. when you hit either switch, it puts power to one or the other of the wires. when you replaced everything in the gate, youre including the key switch right? if you look at the harness connector behind the left tail light, the two pink wires with stripes should be ground. when you hit the switch on the dash they should switch to power, one for up and the other for down. black/white should be constant power. if all is as it should be at the connector the issue is in the tailgate, if not then the problem is in the front. pro tip: lift the top and slide 2x4 blocks under it to open the gate for easier access. then use a screwdriver to trip the drivers side latch so it thinks its closed

 

My problem with the rear window was caused by dirty contacts in the window switch on the dash. I spray cleaned the contacts with DEOXIT electrical cleaner and the problem disappeared.

 

congrats. thats a pretty quick easy cheep fix. lucky you.

 

You know you can also use the key in the tailgate to lower the window, right?.

 

encho, the way its wired it wont work unless the dash switch is good. its set up kinda like a 3 way switch in your house. if one switch is bad, it takes out the whole circuit.

 

The rear window goes up and down with the switch but won't go either way with the key. Guess I have to take the rear gate apart to check the switch wiring. I assume there is a switch or contacts attached to the lock?

 

This is FALSE, my dash switch has been out for YEARS, yet the key works perfectly, please refrain yourself from sharing information if you aren't 100% sure about it.

 

Then your wiring has been modified or Ford used a different harness for South American export Broncos. The US Broncos utilize ground paths through the dash switch. When the contacts get burned & corroded that breaks the ground path for current from the tailgate window motor. I've had to replace a couple of dash switches for that reason. In searching junk yards for extra dash switches I found that usually you can tell a bad switch just by moving the lever of the switch. If it sticks to either side or is stiff it's usually burnt. The plastic on the back around the connections will be discolored or even melted.

 

There are no differences in the wiring, but as I said, the dash switch doesn't work yet the key does but maybe then I somehow lucked out, or even worse, one of the hacks that worked on the truck previously made an independent circuit just for the key. I'm now giving you both the benefit of the doubt.