2002, F-250, 5.4 Triton, 115K

I've read the forum. I need Coil Packs (COPs) and I'm replacing all of them. I replaced the plugs ~20K ago but not sure what was installed (need to confirm). Some have recommend Motorcraft Platinum but not sure what Ford recommends (any Ford service bulletins on this stuff?) If I buy the parts my mechanic will do the install. I know NAPA services his shop.

Q. What brand of Plugs, Boots, COPs do I buy? Any links to recommendations? Any diagrams of this stuff?

 

I would go all OEM motorcraft. Aftermarket COP's have been known to cause issues. I personally have had issues with them on 3 separate 5.4's.

 

Why do you need COPs? These aren't a normal wear item; would you replace both axles if a wheel bearing went bad? But IF you do replace all COPs would you be willing to send them to me? I could use some good Motorcraft spares!

Most recommend Motorcraft coils, and if this is a job you don't want to do again I recommend them. I had one go bad and replaced it with a $10 eBay coil, but this is a 5-minute job I'm not against doing again if necessary, so I took a chance with the cheap part.

 

if you need new COP buy Ford OEM only. The spark plug boots are made by ACDelco, and i just bought a set of eight for 2.25 a piece from the local mom and pop auto parts store here in town. I use Champion Triple platinum plugs in my truck, I'm on my third set in 110k and never had one issue with them, many will say only use Ford plugs but my Champion plugs look IDENTICAL to the Ford plug except a different part number painted on them.....

 

I know Accel and others make COP's now but I did a LOT of reading before doing mine and went with the OEM Motorcraft COP's. They have a better track record and, really, you got 100k miles out of them, right? Summit Racing carries them and they will price match so if you do a little research before calling you can save some coin!! I think I got them for $40/each.

I also used the factory Motorcraft plugs. Now...the bigger issue is this: how tight to torque the plugs? You have the same as I do; the 2-valve 5.4 with only about 4 full threads. Most threads tell you 14 lb. ft. Four threads or not, that sounds VERY low!

I made sure to use anti-seize on the plugs and torqued them to 28 lb. ft. Now the #8 cylinder requires the use of at least one universal fitting, I may have had to use two. That one I torqued to 32 lb. ft. to make up for the loss of torque between all the extensions and u-joints.

I also taped around every connection on the sockets; socket taped to extension, extension taped to universal, etc. Don't go crazy b/c the the socket will JUST fit in with tape on it.

I did mine in about six hours - very casual work pace, btw. I took my time to make sure I wouldn't be doing it again anytime soon. It was not as daunting of a task as I was lead to believe!

Good luck and let us know how it goes!!

 

I'm not going to start an argument here, but I wanted to say that this is a VERY BAD IDEA. If you want to get some good experience with a Timesert and be ~$300 lighter in your wallet follow these instructions. If you value your factory threads, your wallet, and your engine you will follow the factory torque spec and not use anti-seize.

 

RockAuto.com has the best price on the motorcraft coils. I just bought 8, 2 weeks ago. They come with new boots. Also go to the vendor section and look for Rock auto and check out recent posts from them and you will find a discount code for 5% off right now. I had 6 out of the 8 coils with fine cracks on my old coils. While I was replacing coils I cleaned my throttle body, IAC valve, and Maf sensor. Now my truck runs so nice, and I think I'm getting a little bit better fuel mileage, but I haven't fueled up yet since doing it.

 

You have had four sets of spark plugs in that truck in 110k miles????! That's a LOT!! I would presume you did it for efficiency and not because they went bad, right?

I am on my second set now. This job isn't all that daunting but that doesn't mean I am in a hurry to do it again anytime soon!! I'm about to turn 130k miles soon and if I do have the truck another 10 years, I plan to put only one more set in!!

 

i do it because i don't want ANY problems. When i did that at 25k it was because of all the horror stories about the every heads Ford used. I found out that in late 2002 Ford went to the 10 thread heads so my 04 has the new designed heads. And i don't care what plug or car you have no spark plug is going to last 100k, my originals at 25 were already starting to get dirty looking and one was already out of factory gap. For me to spend 40 bucks ever 25k and install brand new plugs is a no brainer.

 

i remove the COP and spray some carb clean in the hole, then put a rag over the hole and use a air nozzle with a flexible extension down the hole and blow whatever dirt etc gets down in there. I then remove the old spark plug and AGAIN blow the spark plug hole out with compressed air. I then apply a smallish amount of silver high temp anti seize to the new spark plug threads and install them with a piece of fuel line and turn the fuel line and start threading the plug to make sure i don't cross it. Then i get my 3/8" torque wrench and 8" extension and torque the plugs to the factory 14ftlbs. Remember to put some dielectric grease o the cop boot and reinstall

 

it takes me less than thirty minutes now to install plugs in my 04. after the first time Ive learned to unplug the injectors to make room and whatever else is in the way and i just go step by step and I'm done

 

And to add to what SDS said, I actually counted the revolutions when I put in the plug. This was my assurance I didn't cross-thread anything and how I know for sure I had the 4-thread heads. I was able to turn them all by hand four about 4 turns exactly then hooked-up the torque wrench.

 

Thanks for all your responses. Yes its the hesitaion - like your riding over marbles. The problem has been progressively getting worse for about 6-9 months (the truck is not my primary vehicle). I do alot of "coasting" around the town with the truck and generaly travel under 50mph - hasn't been a problem. However, with the summer I'll be putting a load on it (towing, turnpike, boat ramps) and it won't take that in its current condition so I gotta fix.

 

Thanks IslandBlueV10, Yes Rockauto is the cheapest for coils & thanks for the info on the boots. I'll look for those coupons. Some have said Global Automotive is equal in quality to the Ford OEM coils, not sure of that and wonder who originally supplied Ford coils.

BTW- not to start an argument, but in my opinion all automotive type coils have a life (MTBF) because the insulation around the coil breaks down causing voltage leakage. Now, that MTBF may be different if your truck is sitting is AZ and mine is sitting in New England where the temperature varies 50, or whatever, degrees from AZ (e.g. environmental influence). It may be also depenent on use. I would think if one coil is bad all the coils are in question because all the coils have a same life.

 

Amazon as the COP for 36.00 currently

and to the guy that said you can't get 100k out of spark plugs no matter what you drive. My 2002 F250 V10 has 192,000 miles and counting. I will not change them until one misfires. I'm a little scared of the 11ft lbs torque required and stripping heads I read about.

and to the guy who said no anti seize, the Chilton manual and the Ford guide at the dealer says to use it. Aluminum heads always use anti seize.