Hi guys,

I have to tear my turbo out and rebuild it since I suspect the oil seal is starting to leak. I already have the rebuild kit I bought from gpopshop.com and replaced the turbo oil feed line and drain tube years ago...so I am good there.

I figure since I am in there I am going to throw in a new oil cooler and the updated SS screen for the HPOP and was looking for recommendations on these two items.

My truck is a 2004 11/03 build and was wondering what else you guys suggest I change and/or update while I am in there ie: STC fitting (if I have one but I don't think I do), injector dummy plugs etc etc.

I am completely in the dark on this one since stuff changed on the engines and I am not sure what applies to my particular build year.

Thank you for the help

Joe

 

bump.....any help is appreciated

 

To just overhaul the turbo doesn't require anything else be removed. If you're not having problems I wouldn't go any further. Also, your truck doesn't have an STC fitting. AFA the oil cooler, OEM works just fine, but flush the crap out of the system before you start. The kit comes with an upgraded SS screen.

 

Npccpartsman is right you don't have the STC fitting.
Do you have a coolant filter? That is the one thing that
I see that is missing from the list. Also what coolant are you
going to run after this flush? If your going to switch this is
the time because everything will be clean after many gallons of
distilled water.

Sean

 

If you're doing the new oil cooler anyways, why not run Restore through it and switch to a silicate-free ELC?

 

He has a coolant filter in his signature.

 

Oops missed that.

Sean

 

Thank you for the advice. Now the big question I have is: Is it truly necessary to run the restore through the system since I have been running a coolant filter for years or can a thorough flush without the t/stat, engine running, heater valve open be sufficient for the switch to ELC?

I do not have any current issues but wanted to rebuild the turbo and since i was in there do an oil cooler for preventative measures since it is the original @ 72k.

I understand that some mention "why change the oil cooler if you don't have an issue?" -Well the answer is it has been in there 72k original miles and it has to come out to replace the HPOP screen....so at that point it almost seems like the right thing to do.....you guys agree?

 

Bingo!! If you are in there that deep, the new cooler is a Ford updated unit -- I'd do it...

On Edit: I found Tousley had the best price on the oil cooler @ $277 before shipping, and as I understand it, it comes with the updated screen too...

 

Restore will clean out any silicates that have leeched out of the Ford Gold coolant, I'd do it before going to a silicate-free coolant because the point of that switch is getting rid of silicates. Restore Plus/VC-9 is an acid that removes rust and scale deposits. Neither get rid of the casting sand issue, that's where the filter comes in.

I'd do both to do everything I can to make the new oil cooler the last one you have to change. Both chems, back flush the heater core, spend some time on it so you aren't doing it again in a couple years. Just putting in water then new ELC doesn't do anything for any silicate goo that's already in the engine.

 

Thanks diesel dan

Texastech,

I hear the chemicals called by different names. and referred to by this and that. Could you please give me the exact names of the two chemicals I will need for the job and where I can purchase these.

Thank you for the help everyone
Joe

 

Fleetguard Restore and Fleetguard Restore Plus From Cummins Filtration:
http://www.cumminsfiltration.com/pdf...LI33024-GB.pdf

I've always bought locally, major OTR shops or dealers that sell/service International, Cat, or Cummins should have it or should be able to order it.

Quick Google search found this place:
http://www.finditparts.com/products/...etguard-cc2610
I can't vouch for this online dealer.

You can buy VC-9 to substitute for Restore Plus at a Ford dealer.

 

Sounds great...thank you.

Good news I talked to a friend of mine tonight who owns a shop that services trucks. i told him my plans. He offered to give me the following : Mobil™ USA | Heavy-Duty Engine Oils | Mobil Extended Life Coolant Antifreeze

It seems to meet all of the requirements everyone speaks of. It is a 50/50 mix so my main concern is getting ALL of the distilled water out of the block through the drains on the last flush...which shouldn't be that big of a deal.

Now the question is.....its obvious I refill the entire system with the 50/50 mix I should be good right?

 

You will leave a couple of gallons of water in the system even if you drain the block.

You need the concentrate.

Just as an fyi - when I changed coolant, all I did was a distilled water flush - no chemicals. I did not have a clogged oil cooler with the Ford Gold and my temperature differentials are the same now as they were with the Gold (6-8 degrees).