Dude! Thanks for that link. Thomas Schwenke's multilanguage videos are amazing:

Thomas Schwenke - YouTube

 

Tuggles Snuggles thanks for the video on the torque converter etc. Super cool.

Alright here are my gauges installed. I made one mistake....I forgot how low the steering column shifter goes when in DRIVE and in that position it blocks my fuel pressure gauge. I should have placed it an inch higher. Nothing I can do about it now.

Luckily I placed a red 12 volt LED signal light high up on the dash which is triggered by the alarm relays in the 3 gauges, so if I need to pay attention to the gauges I will be signaled by the LED which is very prominent.

Sorry for the picture quality...the flash ruins the quality of the light from the gauges which is actually very crisp. Excellent effect.







Here is the view from where I sit...partially blocked by steering wheel when shifter is in PARK.



And here is the way it looks with the shifter down. Make sure you mount yours taking the shifter into account.

 

very nice...would have loved to mount mine like that but I have a 4wd

 

Hey Lex, did it turn out that the TC-KEGT probes needed any additional support or are they fine as is?

 

I bet you can still get the single channel gauge above the 4wd switch....pull the dash out and check.

 

I shoulda taken some pics to show you how I mounted them.

I laid under the truck with the engine running and the thermocouples look very stable. I did zip tie the cables as close to the end of the thermocouples as possible to help provide support. The cables aren't just dangling...and this provides plenty of support especially since the cables are covered in braided stainless steel.

Most important to note is that the thermocouple is held very firmly in place by the npt fitting end cap. Its not gonna slide out. In fact you can actually damage the thermocouple (cut into it) by overtightening the endcap. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?ma...roducts_id=222

Fear not soldier!

 

Thanks hombre

 

Anytime pyr8.

BTW, the setup process for AUBER gauges is quite complex. It takes some serious trial and error to get those little chingones hooked up.

Plus they had a mistake in their instructions for the dual channel gauge which I pointed out to them today.

All I can say is HAVE PATIENCE. Its not 1-2-3.

The plus is that they are MUCH MORE than a simple analog gauge will ever be.

 

Well, after pouring through this thread, I started my journey. I was pretty stoked to see a few guys using the gauges from Auber Instruments. They are the gold standard for home brewers. I noticed they had Automotive stuff one day a couple years ago so when my EGT gauge died, I order the SYL-1813 and a buzzer. I love how the thing works but it really made me aware of how fast I was getting hot.

Now I have a pile of parts inboud and hopefully the old girl will actually handle the DP Tuner chip I have in there. . .

I have Torque and an OBDLink MX dongle. I figured I was losing air so I ordered some fixes. . .

New boots and clamps, plenum inserts, billet wheel, HPx, AIH plug and a few other goodies from Riff Raff, a set of Dorman Bellowed uppy's from Rock Auto (taking a chance to try and save a buck), and a wastegate actuator, 203* Thermostat and Billet Housing from Dieselsite.com. I also have a Reg Return and in-tank kit from Diesel Innovations. So there we go, fuel and air should be taken care of.

Not all of these have anyhting to do with my issues, but I can't wait to get everything in and see how she runs!

I will have 3 of the Auber 1813 guages stacked in my dash. Fuel Pressure, Boost, and EGT. Planning to mount a Nexus 7 in the dash at some point, but for now I have a spare android Phone that will serve as my other reference.

Thanks for taking the time to start this thread and provide all the awesome info Tugly!


BTW, I have a 2001 F350 CCSB 4x4, Full Force 160 Singles, 6637, 4" Exhaust, DP F6 Chip (60t, 80e, 120, High Idle), and now all the toys I listed above! Hopefully get the old girl fixed up soon!

 

There are many things that can cause high EGTs, I'm guessing your gauges are showing anemic boost. Did you build a boost leak detector to verify?

I'll say the Nexus 7 2013 model is an impressive tablet. I've seen the previous generations of tablets, and I was not eager to part with my money for those. If you want to wait until 2014 Q3, I hear HTC (maker of the HTC One -M8-) will make a Nexus 8. You can evaluate that device before wallet whipping.

Congratulations on pursuing 100% with your truck!

 

Didn't do a leak down test. I know my boots are bad (one has a small, visible tear). My firewall is covered in soot and I've replaced the up-pipe donuts once. When I fire the truck up, I can watch exhaust pour from the up-pipes at the top.

Those are the only parts specific to air that I bought.

I plan to hook the fuel pressure gauge up to the bowl first before I install my regulated return just to make sure my pump is doing its job. Not sure if that's necessary. I guess the reading off the new regulator will be tell tale (if I can't dial it up high enough, pump probably weak?)

Doing the in-tank mod to the pickup should be another plus to the fuel side of things.

All my other numbers look normal on the Torque app. I was going to buy AE but it's just a big chunk of change, especially to canada right now.

 

great thread and good info on these nice gauges..

A question i had was what is good length and type for EGT probe leads.

I see they have an exposed and sealed tips.

Which should you use??

how about length.. i was most likely going to use driver side exhaust location near the oil filter as noted in video on YouTube or is there a better, easier, location on pass side??

ALso can the other input, on the two input model, be used to get a real water temp reading using the existing sensor on water pump or would you need to install addition k-type thermocouple..

another words can the wires be spliced and go to new gauge and old gauge on dash and work well??

And what is best color for display.. the default is red.. I know when I was in the military and doing night maneuvers we had red filters on flashlights, the dash lights were red, special tail lights on the trucks.etc..

 

I can't speak to the probes - I used the ones that came with my Pyro gauges.

The driver side is most common, because it's an easy wire run to the cab. You can barely see the probe behind the orange plug in this photo:



The existing ECT sensor might work on an aftermarket gauge, but then you're disabling the dash gauge. I try to keep the truck as stock as possible, to prevent issues with troubleshooting and to facilitate pulling the add-ons without issue.

Red is best for night vision, but I have opted to match the Ford dash color and style for consistency and appearance. I do not use the A-pillar for gauges. While I'm sure it's just fine for driving in town, I drive dark and lonely roads with deer, big-horned sheep, elk, bear, and the occasional moose out to get me. I don't want any lights in my face to diminish my view of these road hazards.

 

and i thought driving in NY city was hazardous..

Where then would you install a sensor for water temp.

also what brand socket you using to remove IPR.. i tried several and they would not allow the stem where the nut threads to pass through to get the thing off.

what is ford dash color.. blue or white.. ?? i drive the truck very seldom at night. 2003 f-250 SD.

 

I never tried installing an ECT gauge, and I wouldn't bother - but that's just me. The EOT tells me the engine temperature, and that's on the OBDII port.

I bought a 1/2"-drive deep socket at Sears (pictured above), and it worked. I never tried the 3/8" drive, but someone else may have.

Some will say the dash color is green, but it's more of a teal. I bought Ford-match gauges, then I had to program my Torque Pro to match those. Programming the color in hex code give you a good sense of what color it isn't.