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Old 04-09-2013, 02:43 PM
paddler paddler is offline
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HPOP, Radiator Leaks, and Stop Leak?

I've had a fluid leak for quite a while, and finally concluded that it's engine oil from around the HPOP base. Probably about a quart per 5K miles. It looks like it's coming from the front base of the HPOP, leaking onto the water pump housing, then migrating to the bottom of the pan and fender liner.

I don't have time to take the truck out of service for quite a while, so my immediate options are a) leave it alone and b) try one of the engine oil stop-seal-leak additives. Any wisdom on either approach?

BTW, truck is running well... just returned to service after getting my custom bed project on and usable (not finished... but back in service) and replacing a bent compressor wheel. So I don't think I have any issues with HPOP performance... just a nagging leak.

Similar situation on a new small coolant leak at the bottom driver's side radiator coolant fitting. I'm going to tighten the clamp and hope that's it, but the leak may be the fitting-to-radiator connection. If tightening the clamp doesn't work, are there objections to using radiator stop-leak in these engines?

Thanks in advance for any advice.
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Old 04-09-2013, 03:11 PM
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Do NOT use any stop leak style additives.

EVER.
Not for coolant or for oil.
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Old 04-09-2013, 04:06 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Talyn View Post
Do NOT use any stop leak style additives.

EVER.
Not for coolant or for oil.
you know some of us make a living working on vehicles and people using that junk makes us more money, changing heater cores, exct. so quit telling people the truth that that stuff is garbage!
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Old 04-09-2013, 05:52 PM
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My brother used to work in automotive cooling system service; they used to call the stuff "Bars Heat", for its uncanny capacity to clog heater cores.

Lower radiator hose? If tightening the clamp doesn't get 'er, drain the radiator and remove the hose and clean up the fitting. Also try a new clamp and/or hose. If it persists, and it's copper, you can have it repaired (soldered). If it's plastic, new rad time.
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Old 04-09-2013, 07:43 PM
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My brother used to work in automotive cooling system service; they used to call the stuff "Bars Heat", for its uncanny capacity to clog heater cores.

Lower radiator hose? If tightening the clamp doesn't get 'er, drain the radiator and remove the hose and clean up the fitting. Also try a new clamp and/or hose. If it persists, and it's copper, you can have it repaired (soldered). If it's plastic, new rad time.
Thats bars leak homie. =)
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Old 04-09-2013, 09:26 PM
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if the oil is running down the water pump my bet is hpop lower o-ring seal..thats a very large 20min job to replace.the hpop gasket is just an afternoon project.do both at the same time on a sat...its really NOT a big deal.I would repair it correctly..I did exactly that last year..my garage floor on my 322000mi truck is completly dry..leaks are unacceptable. THIS is the first non-race/project vehicle I have ever been obsessed about garaging always.Its pretty cool.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:14 AM
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It could just be the inspection cover to the HPOP bolt on the front side.
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Old 04-10-2013, 01:58 AM
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oohhhh! Glenn,you got me there.I didnt mention that did i...wouldnt that be nice is all.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:27 PM
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Thanks, guys

OK guys, I think I see a consensus... no stop-leak in the OBS.

Will tighten the hose clamp this weekend and keep an eye on coolant level.

The HPOP will wait a bit...sounds like nothing bad is going to happen, and I won't have much time for a couple of weeks.

Now I must admit, there IS stop-leak in my 01 Taurus wagon... leaking timing cover seal. 10 hour book job to repair, and my local shop won't touch it- they've had problems making the fix work. So we'll see if the stop-leak works. If not and the leak gets worse and coolant ends up in the oil, well, 40+ mpg from a Jetta Sportwagon TDI manual starts sounding nice.
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Old 04-11-2013, 09:27 PM
 
 
 
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