How hard are these to install? Is there a how to somewhere? I put in my leveling kit thinking I could get it somewhat close and its way off so I need to get these now. My mistake for not planning ahead.

 

Also, where is the best place to get what I need?

 

Pretty easy install. Remove upper ball joint nut, remove camber sleeve that's currently in there, install adjustable sleeve. Sometimes the sleeves are a pita to get out. It'd probably help to spray penetrating fluid on them for a couple days before you're doing the job.

There should be a chart with your new camber sleeves that outlines what number/letter to set them at to get zero degrees. Install them at zero, check the camber angle with an angle finder, then set the bushings where you need them. Use plenty of anti-seize when you install them.

I got mine at Rock Auto.

 

There were several different ones on rock auto. Which ones should I get?

 

I just need the part number for which one to order on my rwd truck. I'm not concerned with the alignment being perfect, just close enough that the wheels aren't tilted. I'll get it aligned right when I get new tires.

 

What year, model, 4wd or 2wd?

 

94 f150 rwd

 

Moog K80109 are the ones you want.

 

Does it come with both of them or do I need to order 2?

 

Order two of them.

 

You are wasting time and $ doing this. Just take it to a alignment shop that can do it. Just lifting it some will throw the camber out but the toe should stay close. Change the ca.ber bushings and you toe goes way out... That will eat tires.

 

I have to adjust my camber before I do anything but then I'll take it in to get the alignment done. I don't think setting it up to be straight is ever a waste of money.

 

What about the caster? Everyone seems to think you put the adjustable bushings in then turn them to get the camber right... doesnt work that way. I have done hundreds of alignments with camber bushings in these trucks. You need to get your caster and camber readings, then remove the old bushings, see what offset they are, calculate which bushing to put in or how to orient the adjustable one, then hook the machine back up to verify caster and camber then set the toe. I woould be pissed if someone put those adjustable ones in then brought it to me. they are nearly impossible to get out without destroying them. I prefer the fixed bushing of the correct offset. They cost a lot less also.

 

If alignment shops had bushings in stock, or readily available at parts stores, I agree with fixed bushings 100%. However, at least in my neck of the woods, it's tough to find an alignment shop that's willing to set more than toe on these trucks, let alone have bushings readily available to set camber.

Proper procedure, per Ford, is to remove factory bushings, install zero degree bushings, then calculate what you need. Which is why, when I did mine, I set the adjustable bushing to zero, calculated via the chart included with the adjustable bushings, set the bushings, and installed them. Toe was roughly set, by me, then dialed in at the alignment shop. Took them all of a half hour to fine tune toe, and they actually thanked me for saving them the trouble of messing with the camber.

No matter how it's done, changing camber is going to affect toe, and changing toe (if it's way out) will affect camber.

To the OP, perhaps it's worth a call to your local alignment shop to see what they can do for you, and what their recommendations are about parts.

 

That may be a good idea. Just trying not to spend too much to get it straight.