I have a 1967 ford f100 with the 352FE in it, it is the stock intake manifold. Can i replace my 2bbl with a 4bbl or is there a 2bbl that will be better than the autolite 2100?

 

Yer putting the cart before the horse... improve the exhaust before upgrading the induction.

 

And then a cam before you go carb if you want drivability.

 

Well if ya want to go cheap autozone has 2bbl-4bbl adaptors for $19.95 and $25.95 or you can get a 4bbl intake. About a better suited 2bbl im not to sure.

 

Agreed, I still run logs on my 352, and installed a 4V auto intake and Holley 4160, did a light exh porting (slag-remvl/roof-blend). Its a dual 2.5" into one 3", 3' x 8" barrel muffler, dump after pass tire. Was a real improvent over the 2bbl. But, I think a headers are the best first move. What cant get out, will bind on the way in at some point. And I feel it on mine, just when she wants to start letting it all out. Headers will be required, exhaust setup, then induction. The FE intake swap is a PIA, so if yo want to do a cam swap, make sure it's a same time deal. You may find the 2bbl, and headers, decent distributor curve setup are all you need/want.

 

I agree with redmanbob. Exhaust and timing first and see if you are happy with it. Your 352 will probably take a Holley 500 CFM super deuce without a cam but the bigger carb bores and venturis like the 500CFM have don't atomize the air/fuel as well as the smaller 4BBL. do. Which is where I mentioned drivability earlier. If you're not happy after exhaust and timing, as redmanbob stated I would do a 4BBL and cam at the same time. Changing the intake requires valve covers and pushrods out. You will be 1/3 of the way for a cam change already! Eat your cherios before to pick up the intake manifold!

 

i think we need to know what you are trying to accomplish.
I don't see much use in putting a 4-barrel on top of a 2-barrel manifold.

There is no 2-barrel better than the Autolite 2100.

 

i decided to keep my stock 2bbl carb but it is flooding really bad and im getting gas everywhere, what would be a good starting adjustment ?

 

either your float is mis-adjusted, or there the needle-and-seat valve isn't sealing properly (this one is more likely).

either way, you have to pull the top off and go inside.

luckily- this is probably the easiest carb ever to rebuild.

 

i rebuilt it once before but while i was slowly rebuilding the engine i let the carb set and the rubber parts probably became brittle

 

i bought doubles for some items like points and condensor as well as the carb rebuild kit

 

with a mechanical fuel pump how do i lower my fuel pressure? i am going to post a pic of where the fuel in spraying/leaking out on my carb in about 5 minutes, please give me some advice!

 

A stock mechanical fuel pump only puts out 5 - 7 pounds of pressure. You don't want to restrict that. Any healthy float and needle/seat can handle that. Any less pressure could run out of gas in the bowl on full throttle. I think once you pull the top of the carb back off you'll find your problem.

 

 

the fuel pump isnt stock, i just got a new one today