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  #1  
Old 03-26-2013, 12:07 AM
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Air Conditioning Pump Wiring. Which wire goes where?

I'm getting bored, and thought about possible things to do to the van. I figured, why not figure out why the PO cut the wires to the Air Conditioning Compressor and removed the belt.

I've been reading up on AC pump and clutch repairs on the forum, but what I can't find is how to wire the compressor into the system. I have two wires hanging from the ceiling of the engine compartment, and I'm 99% sure these are supposed to be connected to the pump. And there are two wires hanging from the pump, just dangling around.

My theory is, those wires are supposed to be connected. Does the directionality matter? If I were to connect my multi-meter to the wires hanging from the ceiling and turn on the AC switch (to determine if it's getting power), would I short something out if I were to put the red mulitmeter probe on one wire and the black probe on the other wire? Or should I ground out the black probe instead? What is the best way to determine what wire goes to which pump wire?
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  #2  
Old 03-26-2013, 01:02 AM
myoldvan myoldvan is offline
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I'm getting ready to do the same thing soon! Unfortunately I don't have the compressor mounted up ready to go - I still need to source that and the other components.

I'd get out your test light, and with the wire grounded test the two wires with the AC switch in both the on and off position. My guess is that you will find that one of the wires is a (+) and one is a (-).

If you get a chance, please take a photo! I'd be curious to see how the pump mounts in your '88 compared to how I think I am supposed to mount one in my '84.

I was also just reading up on your MPG's your getting - awesome!
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  #3  
Old 04-05-2013, 01:59 AM
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I tested the wires, and with the dash set to "Off," they both read 0V. With the dial set to "Normal AC," one wire reads 0V and the other reads 14mV. With the dial set to "Max AC," one wire reads 0V and the other reads 14mV.

I think it's weird it would send a handful of millivolts. I would think the wires powering the AC Pump would be running 12V, but then again, is the dash sending wires could be just putting out a low voltage just to turn on the pump. I don't know.

Does anyone know how much voltage is supposed to be going to the AC pump? And if it's supposed to be different than 14mV, what could be restricting the voltage? I found a fusable link on one of the wires, so maybe that is burned out and allowing a super small voltage thru it.

I put a belt on just to see if the clutch would engage, and it didn't (I could tell this even with the belt off, but just wanted to see anyway.) It sounds like whatever bearings are on that pump are rusty or burned up. It's very loud and scratchy. I don't know how long the PO had that AC pump sitting without a belt.
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1988 Ford E250 Club Wagon | 7.3 IDI + RD2-90cc IP + Hypermax Van Turbo Kit | C6+GVOD w/ MaxOD Deep Sump & Electric Temp Probe | Wrapped Pipes & Turbo w/ Auber Instrument EGT/Boost Gauge | 4" Dia. Alum Driveshaft | 4.10 Gears | 32-gal Custom Alum fuel tank w/ Centroid sending unit | NAPA Coolant Filter | Michelin LRR 16" treads | Chrome Warn Winch Bumper | 115W PV Array | Brass Heatercore shutoff valves | Aftermarket Steering Stabilizer | Synthetic Lube all-around.
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  #4  
Old 04-05-2013, 02:01 AM
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If you get a chance, please take a photo! I'd be curious to see how the pump mounts in your '88 compared to how I think I am supposed to mount one in my '84.
I forgot to take photos, but soon I will. If I can't figure this out, I know an independent AC guy in LA that does good work for a reasonable price. He could probably figure this out in an hour for all i know
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1988 Ford E250 Club Wagon | 7.3 IDI + RD2-90cc IP + Hypermax Van Turbo Kit | C6+GVOD w/ MaxOD Deep Sump & Electric Temp Probe | Wrapped Pipes & Turbo w/ Auber Instrument EGT/Boost Gauge | 4" Dia. Alum Driveshaft | 4.10 Gears | 32-gal Custom Alum fuel tank w/ Centroid sending unit | NAPA Coolant Filter | Michelin LRR 16" treads | Chrome Warn Winch Bumper | 115W PV Array | Brass Heatercore shutoff valves | Aftermarket Steering Stabilizer | Synthetic Lube all-around.
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  #5  
Old 04-05-2013, 06:04 AM
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my guess is the pump was disconnected because the bearings in it are bad, as evident by the noise.
he probably cut the wires at first to keep it from engaging, then when the bearings went found the proper ac delete belt.

12 volts to the ac clutch, and it does not matter which way the wires go. one is ground and one is power to the clutch coils.
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  #6  
Old 04-05-2013, 10:26 AM
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thanks for the info. I knew it was supposed to be 12V.

This is some current running thru the wires, so the system seems intact, but it's not right. Any ideas on what could be restricting the voltage? I assume there is some sort of relay in series with the fusable link.

Can I just jump the two AC wires to the battery, to test if the pump clutch will engage?
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1988 Ford E250 Club Wagon | 7.3 IDI + RD2-90cc IP + Hypermax Van Turbo Kit | C6+GVOD w/ MaxOD Deep Sump & Electric Temp Probe | Wrapped Pipes & Turbo w/ Auber Instrument EGT/Boost Gauge | 4" Dia. Alum Driveshaft | 4.10 Gears | 32-gal Custom Alum fuel tank w/ Centroid sending unit | NAPA Coolant Filter | Michelin LRR 16" treads | Chrome Warn Winch Bumper | 115W PV Array | Brass Heatercore shutoff valves | Aftermarket Steering Stabilizer | Synthetic Lube all-around.
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  #7  
Old 04-05-2013, 10:37 AM
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The wiring for the AC takes in account for low and high pressure switch readings. I don't have the diagram,but it is something like switch to low pressure, to high pressure to compresser. It would be my guess that since the AC has been disconnected, the freon has leaked out causing the low pressure switch to open, not allowing the curant to get to the AC clutch.
Yes you could test the clutch with 2 wires to the battery, but don't run it very long. As Tom stated the bearings are probably toast in the clutch.
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  #8  
Old 04-05-2013, 11:45 AM
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the freon has leaked out causing the low pressure switch to open, not allowing the curant to get to the AC clutch.
I feel like an idiot. duh. My brain must have been off when I was playing around with this thing.

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  #9  
Old 04-05-2013, 04:18 PM
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I stopped off at my friends shop (he runs a radiator/AC shop), and just by fiddling with it he said the pump, bearings, clutch, pony tail, all is shot. He said to pull that pump off and he could have it sent off to be rebuilt.

I looked at some cheapo parts places online (partsgeek, rockauto, et), and I can find similar pumps for 150-200 bucks new or re-manufactured.

What should I do? order a new one or rebuild the original?
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1988 Ford E250 Club Wagon | 7.3 IDI + RD2-90cc IP + Hypermax Van Turbo Kit | C6+GVOD w/ MaxOD Deep Sump & Electric Temp Probe | Wrapped Pipes & Turbo w/ Auber Instrument EGT/Boost Gauge | 4" Dia. Alum Driveshaft | 4.10 Gears | 32-gal Custom Alum fuel tank w/ Centroid sending unit | NAPA Coolant Filter | Michelin LRR 16" treads | Chrome Warn Winch Bumper | 115W PV Array | Brass Heatercore shutoff valves | Aftermarket Steering Stabilizer | Synthetic Lube all-around.
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  #10  
Old 04-05-2013, 05:01 PM
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What the heck is a pony tail?
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  #11  
Old 04-05-2013, 05:08 PM
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I was reading some other post, and someone called the electrical connector the pony tail. i kinds looks like one. with my clutch all messed up, it wiggles around like one too.
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:32 PM
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AH, pigtail is what I've always heard

Click the image to open in full size.
Thats not the one for your AC, but thats what you're talking about, right?
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Old 04-05-2013, 05:45 PM
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Yep. pigtail. my bad.
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1988 Ford E250 Club Wagon | 7.3 IDI + RD2-90cc IP + Hypermax Van Turbo Kit | C6+GVOD w/ MaxOD Deep Sump & Electric Temp Probe | Wrapped Pipes & Turbo w/ Auber Instrument EGT/Boost Gauge | 4" Dia. Alum Driveshaft | 4.10 Gears | 32-gal Custom Alum fuel tank w/ Centroid sending unit | NAPA Coolant Filter | Michelin LRR 16" treads | Chrome Warn Winch Bumper | 115W PV Array | Brass Heatercore shutoff valves | Aftermarket Steering Stabilizer | Synthetic Lube all-around.
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  #14  
Old 04-06-2013, 01:58 AM
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I was going to pull the AC Pump tonight, which doesn't look too hard to do. However, before I got ready to start, I wanted to check to see if there was some pressure in the system. I figure the PO hadn't maintained the AC system, so it must be totally leaked out.

I found one of the pressure valves on the AC tubing, and pressed the center pin. Amazingly, there was pressure in the system. It wasn't a lot of pressure, but something.

Some questions: Does it sound like my AC circuit has no leaks? Do I have to evacuate the system prior to pulling the AC pump? Are there any things I need to do prior/during/after I reinstall the AC pump?
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1988 Ford E250 Club Wagon | 7.3 IDI + RD2-90cc IP + Hypermax Van Turbo Kit | C6+GVOD w/ MaxOD Deep Sump & Electric Temp Probe | Wrapped Pipes & Turbo w/ Auber Instrument EGT/Boost Gauge | 4" Dia. Alum Driveshaft | 4.10 Gears | 32-gal Custom Alum fuel tank w/ Centroid sending unit | NAPA Coolant Filter | Michelin LRR 16" treads | Chrome Warn Winch Bumper | 115W PV Array | Brass Heatercore shutoff valves | Aftermarket Steering Stabilizer | Synthetic Lube all-around.
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Old 04-06-2013, 03:53 AM
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legally you should recover whatever is in there, but very few people do. they just vent it to atmosphere. once the compressor is removed, seal the lines as good as you can to prevent contaminants from entering them. then replace the compressor as soon as possible. get the system evacuated as soon as possible too. this will tell you if there any leaks. if there is a leak, it will not hold vacuum.

and have your friend refill the system with R-12. the R-134A conversions do not work as well as the old R-12 system.
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Old 04-06-2013, 03:53 AM
 
 
 
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