Ok so I am still chasing my oil consumption issue. I am using about 1 quart of oil per 1000 miles. About 5000 miles ago I replaced the injectors with reman FFD stage 1s that I got from DP. So I think I am down to pulling the injectors out to see if I rolled an o-ring while putting the new ones back in. I do not know what the likely hood of this actually is but tired of dumping oil into it and it definitely isn't going on the ground because there isn't any leaks on the ground. I know somebody to pull the fuel filter to see if it is black but I have not done that yet. All I can say it that it has to be something I did wrong when I replace the injectors.
Do you all think I would be safe just pulling the injectors and looking for a some contamination or rolled o-ring and then putting back in without replacing all of the o-rings? I have time to yank all of them and get them back in tomorrow night if y'all think it would be safe.
Any thoughts would be great! Thanks in advance.

 

Anyone think if I just pull the glow plugs that may show signs of odd burn in one cylinder?

 

GP is a good idea. It mitt show a carbon build up if the cylinder is burning alot of oil. Did you lub up the o-rings good when you changed them out.How about your turbo, could be the o-rings in the center section also.

 

Take a look at your fuel filter like you said, that's the easiest way.

Take a look in your exhaust for oil if your turbo is the issue.

If you decide to pull the injectors too take a look I would at the very least want new coppers, but if you wanted to simply go for a bit after inspecting, you could lube them up and put them back in the same holes, and likely not have any issues. I had an issue with an armature plate screw coming loose on the road, pulled the injectors repaired, and reinstalled them without new orings, and it did not show any signs of issue for the 2000 or so miles I ran them before I pulled the injectors to have them gone through and reringed.

 

Ok so if I do pull them, where do I get just the copper washers at? I see the re-ring kits on dieselorings.com. Do they carry the washers too?

 

GP idea is clever.

I would get the O-ring kit before I pulled an injector. Say you get lucky and find the bad hole by way of GP. Those O-rings are subjected to over 3000 PSI on rare occasion, 2000 PSI sometimes, and 1000 PSI every time you drive. How big does that flaw need to be to lose oil? Are you going to see it? now say you pull the stick and inspect it, but can find nothing. What's your next move? Put it back in and hope reseating it squared it away? You drive down the road and the problem isn't solved... then you're kicking your *** because nothing was really tried after all that effort.

O-ring kits are so inexpensive, compared to the added work gained and peace of mind lost without them. [LINK] [LINK]

 

Yes you have a good point about pulling a leaker and trying to get it to reseal, dumb idea.

 

Always remember... a lot of my input comes from unwise maneuvers (and bad luck) on my part. Ain't bein' human grand?

 

Ok so I was thinking...isn't the oil supply between the combo of 1, 2, & 3 and 7? And then the fuel between 7 & 5. Referring to the picture below. My thoughts are that if I had an oil leak then the fuel filter would HAVE to be black, correct?

 

You nailed it... unless you have an FRx or the like. The oil would then go into the return line to the tank and it would take longer for the oil to discolor the fuel.

Other than that, burning (not leaking) oil is likely to be an issue near the turbo.

 

WOW at least I had my head above the water on that statement. LOL No I do not have a FRx. Guess I will be pulling the fuel filter tonight and go from there.

Also when you say that the turbo could be burning it, where in the turbo is a common place that the turbo leaks the oil to be burned at? Do they make a rebuild kit for it?

 

Since I have not experienced burning oil - ever... I'm not a good source on this one. I know a clogged air filter can suck the bejeezus out of the driver-side VC. I recall the turbo can also suck oil through a seal to the bushing.

That being said: While I have experienced many coincidences and cascade issues on Stinky (like restored pressure makes another old component leak)... the last thing you did before the problem showed up is frequently the area where you should focus. Don't rule out a defective stick, either. I had... uh... more than one.

 

Well I do that the CCV just dumping into the atmosphere so I dont think that could be doing it but don't hold me to that.

Oh don't say that...I don't want to have bad sticks. So did your fuel filter turn black when you had bad sticks or how did you know they were bad?

 

Which time and which hole? Injector knock is one... it's easiest to hear this one from under the truck. You don't have to crawl all the way under there, just listen under the running boards and an injector knock is painfully obvious. I had a few not flow the same as the other sticks, and this shows up as an ugly idle and choppy cruise, but WOT was smooth - like anyone could possibly screw up a WOT run with all that ICP and PW. I had loose injector bolts (my fave); this gives banging, smokey starts, damaged cups, jerky throttle, butt-massaging idle, grayed degas bottle, and indigestion.

 

Ask and you shall receive. Here is where your turbo will be burning oil...like mine was:







This is the turbine end of the shaft. Mine was not burning a quart every 1000 miles, but it was getting there. On the outside, it was working fine. No shaft play.