Need Help With My '92 5.8
#1
Need Help With My '92 5.8
'92 F-250 4x4 with 351w. 192000mi, bought it as a beat up old farm truck and im trying to resurrect her. Had 5 out of 6 freeze plugs replaced to address original coolant leak. Truck has always idled rough, bad delay when i hit the gas, and truck sometimes dies when im idling or rolling slow with the wheels turned. Just changed the fuel filter which helped A TON......at first. Ran great like brand new until i put another 50miles on it, then the idle got a little rough again (not as bad as it was, but definitely a step back), and it died on me again in a drive-thru, it ONLY DIES IF THE STEERING WHEEL IS TURNED. and i have a coolant leak again dripping down onto the exhaust manifold on both sides but worse on passenger side. Please help me diagnose the issue with it dying, and where this coolant leak might be. I am about to replace the thermostat and gasket, EGR Valve, TPS sensor, and PCV valve just to be thorough, will any of these fix the issue? i appreciate any and all feedback.
#2
Need to pull codes. Whatever OEM parts you replace, keep them for later use. For noted example, replaced EGR unit with O'Reilly brand, didn't work. Cleaned old EGR and worked fine.
Coolant leak is either another freeze plug leaking, corroded head bolt not sealing, bad freeze plug in heads, thermostat leaking around timing cover and running down both sides of block, or possible crack in head(s).
Stalling issue could be related to IAC valve and/or dirty TB. Remove IAC, inspect for carbon buildup, clean with brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Do not allow chemical into solenoid of IAC. Install new gasket for both TB and IAC if possible.
If freeze plug is found leaking, I would recommend pulling engine to do correctly and clean/inspect block. It sounds like rust has taken it over.
Coolant leak is either another freeze plug leaking, corroded head bolt not sealing, bad freeze plug in heads, thermostat leaking around timing cover and running down both sides of block, or possible crack in head(s).
Stalling issue could be related to IAC valve and/or dirty TB. Remove IAC, inspect for carbon buildup, clean with brake cleaner or electrical contact cleaner. Do not allow chemical into solenoid of IAC. Install new gasket for both TB and IAC if possible.
If freeze plug is found leaking, I would recommend pulling engine to do correctly and clean/inspect block. It sounds like rust has taken it over.
#3
Good advice, ill put the IAC on my list too. Truck wasnt maintained very well, and theres a lot of "country boy" repairs on it. Ive been hoping that she just needs fresh components and some love to get her going strong. Thanks for the reply and ill keep the thread updated with any progress/lack of.
#4
updates
ok so i replaced the PCV valve, and the IAC valve, and thermostat. I dont notice any improvements, and now my "Check Engine" light is on, and thats a first. She dies when shes in gear and at a slow roll especially if the steering wheel is turned or turning, never dies at a stop. The EGR valve is next on the list...anything else i should check?
#5
ok so i replaced the PCV valve, and the IAC valve, and thermostat. I dont notice any improvements, and now my "Check Engine" light is on, and thats a first. She dies when shes in gear and at a slow roll especially if the steering wheel is turned or turning, never dies at a stop. The EGR valve is next on the list...anything else i should check?
Warm up the engine then do this: Fuel Injection Technical Library » How To Run a Self-Test
Or purchase a code reader such as the Equus 3145.
Your truck will more than likely display 3 digit codes. Fuel Injection Technical Library » 3 Digit Self-test Codes 111-171
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