Just picked one up to restore. Have shop manual and trying to get engine to turn over -manually. Took generator clamp off to get that belt off. Radiator out and fan off. Took bottom crank pulley bolt out and pulley does not come off? Wheel puller required? How does the fan belt get replaced or tensioned?
Also, where is the easiest place to try to turn her over? Shop manual is kind of weak in that area. Thanks

 

Have you tried to turn it over using the starter? Just curious to know if it's froze or if it would turn over at all.

You can use a socket and breaker bar on the damper pulley bolt, the bottom pulley, to turn the engine. If it doesn't budge doing this then the engine is stuck. If it's stuck fill the cylinders with a 50/50 mix of diesel fuel and oil. Some will probably seep past the piston and into the oil pan. Let it sit for a few days and try turning over by hand again.

The tensioning of the belts is done by moving the fan and generator. It's a PIA to do but that's only way to do it.

 

Unless the engine is known to have been run within a year or so, there's likely a good reason it's stuck. Were the air cleaner and carb on it the whole time it was out of commission? Spark plugs all in? Between mice, rain, snow, etc. there can be many reasons an engine is stuck fast. The valves or lifters or pistons could be stuck with rust or varnish or even mouse or hornet's nests. Trying to force it past that can damage an otherwise recoverable engine.

I'd pull off the intake and see what shape the valve train is in. If it's clean and rust-free, then concentrate on the pistons. Like Bob said, thin oil (50-50 acetone and ATF is a favorite) poured in the plug holes and left to sit may bust things loose (can't hurt to put that on all the lifters, too). Rocking the truck in high gear is a good way to break it loose.

 

I found a post here regarding the crank pulley and believe me -I am not calling anyone an old man cause I am one! lol
The truck had no plugs in the engine -just found 3 in the bed. I have Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder and new plugs hand tightened. Truck has not been running for years and I may be pulling the engine anyway. Got a 6v battery and when I hit starter button it just clicks. Obvious electrical wiring issues as the battery died after 3 days. So I have my work cutout and in no hurry -just want to restore her to original condition. Once I get the crank pulley off I am going to pull the starter and see if it's good.

 

I don't understand why you want to get the crank pulley off? It's not necessary until you're ready to have the crankshaft machined. It's far easier to get off once the engine is out of the truck.

By all means take the plugs out while trying to turn the engine. If there weren't any plugs in the engine for quite some time, I'd go forward with pulling the engine and disassembling, it's likely to be pretty rusty.

 

I got the engine out and it is out for a boil out and "let's see" what's wrong. I scraped over 60 lbs of grime off the engine. Turns out the starter was locked into the flywheel. It fell out when we were hoisting the engine out. The engine did turn over manually once that happened.
Pulled everything off it and sent the basic block to the shop. So that is great.
Pulling the trans now. Same deal -painfull extraction. The shift lever pin on the linkage was frozen, so I did the old plumber trick -wrapped it with tin foil and torched it. Didn't want all the grime to catch on fire!
That worked -so now just the speedo cable and hopefully it will come straight out the front without the engine.

 

Good progress! Which shift lever pin do you mean was stuck? Normally the trans comes out thru the cab, you take out the seat and trans cover (be sure to drain the trans first!). Which trans do you have?

 

Engine is out. Shift linkage disconnected. Other than the speedo cable what is holding it in? The book said to puss the drives haft but I see no reason with the motor gone. There is a yoke on the frame where the drive shaft connects to the trans but that doesn't look like it would free anything. It is covered in grime so seeing bolts is a challenge. If you can help, I would appreciate it.

 

4 speed manual -I have disconnected it with a torch and some heat. See my last post if u can help. Thanks

 

I pulled the floor pan and shifter out. Trans will still not come out -I thought it would slide right out of the drive shaft. I am going to disconnect that nest and get it out. Thanks for the posts -I am learning a lot. The worst thing is cleaning up the road grime to try to find the bolts to remove everything. And taking the seat out was no fun either. The passenger door is key locked and I only got the ignition key. So I had to be a contortionist to get the passenger side bolts our of the floor -but I did. guess why that is the meaning of "project car"! lol

 

The door unlocks from inside by moving the door handle to release it. (down) Moving it up/forward locks it.

Have you removed the clutch operating shaft? You should buy a manual, they are only $20 or so.

 

Well done and lucky! I would have banked on it being seized with plugs missing. Getting the cylinder head studs out without snapping a few is another bonus. Like Ross indicated, patience and a gentle approach to "stuck stuff" is the best way to keep the iron serviceable.

 

The door key lock only affects the exterior handle. The door should still open using the interior handle. If it doesn't, you have other issues.

 

Did you take the trans mount bolts out? They are at the very rear of the trans on either side of the drive shaft yoke.

 

I have a manual. It is OK but some instructions and pics don't tell the entire story. The rear bolts are out -like I said there is so much road grime on her it takes a while to find bolts. Trans is supported by a jack and the only thing appearing to hold it in is the drive shaft. So I will clean up that area and do some more exploration. I will post an update.
Thanks for the info on the door lock. I will see if I can get it open now that I know no key is needed.