Trying to go for a more aggressive look and feel.

I wonder if I could just order new shocks and/or longer front springs, and a taller block or another leaf spring for the rear to get a couple extra inches of lift -- or if I would need to go with another complete kit?

Would be nice to have 37s or 39s, as I've already got 35's.

The inspiration is Skyjacker Suspension - Lift Kit - 2011 Ford F-350 Super Duty - Truckin Magazine

 

Spoke with ReadyLift, they said that with a 20x9 and 5" backspace (0 offset) wheel and this Stage 4, you can fit 37x12.5 tires comfortably.

 

I would go this route, you can get a great look and feel with this lift. Make sure to get the 12.5 and not a 13.5" width.

And that truck from skyjacker is an 8.5" 4 link suspension lift probably sitting on 39's. That is one massive truck. My friend just built a Ram for SEMA and has it on the cover of Diesel Power Mag currently and it is HUGE. Too much for some but when you do that for a living you gotta stand out. Everyone will have their perfect fit and its just finding what fits you best!

If I was you I think I would go this route... Keep your lift and set up your new wheels and tires that you want. These tires are not known for mileage life so in a year or two you will be looking at new tires and if you want to lift more then that would be an ideal time to do it, or just lift anytime and sell your wheels and tires!

 

Yeah, I think that's the route I'm going to go. It's a shame the current factory wheels aren't a 0 backspace!

I wonder what the best 37" AT or MT would be for an aggressive stance and longevity for road usage?

 

Aggressive stance will be MT, longevity will be AT... Toyo has an AT that has a 50,000 mile warranty, I have Toyo MT and Love them but I do play in the mud and on the ranch and farms enough to need them otherwise I would probably have AT. My last set of MT was Nitto and they lasted me over 60,000 before I retired them they are still in my barn for a backup they have life left if I was in an emergency.

 

So, I guess I'm a bit confused on the wheel offset.

I called ReadyLift again, and they confirmed the 37x12.5R20 on a 20x9 with 0 offset / 5 backspace.

If the factory wheels are a -40mm offset; wouldn't that mean that the new wheels are moving the tire back under the fenderwell and closer to the suspension?

I was looking at these wheels (Wheel Details - Discount Tire Direct)

I believe my current tires are 12.5" -- I wonder how weird the truck is going to look with taller tires, closer in to the truck instead of wider -- won't that give a roller-skate like appearance?

 

+40 for stock. 0 or - will bring the wheel out

 

Ah, okay. So the new wheels will bring the wheel out another inch or so, yeah?

 

I like to use this site to visualize wheel offsets and etc.:

Custom rims, wheel tire packages for your ride - RIMSnTIRES.com

 

Yeah I was trying to use Rim & Tire Size Calculator. Custom Offsets - Wheel-Size.com and it just kept looking weird; but now it makes more sense.

 

So... I've read bad and good things about this; but -- would it work?

I can't find any wheels that I truly like -- the ones that came with the King Ranch package are pretty awesome looking with the white truck.

40mm is roughly 1.5" right? So could I get a high quality 2" spacer (2-inch Wheel Spacers for 03-15 Ford 4wd F-250, F-350 Super Duty [1098] | Rough Country Suspension Systems®) and have the "offset" that is needed to run 37" tires?

 

No, that won't work. It's not a good idea in the first place, but it won't work because they're generic spacers. From the site:

Does NOT fit OE hub centric wheels.
ONLY fits aftermarket lug centric wheels.

Maybe just find some narrower tires or some hub centric wheels that will work?

 

Thanks for pointing that out.

Look @ these ones now WheelAdapter.com > Wheel Spacers

 

Those are spacers that go between two wheels on a dually axle. And the pictures show them featuring acorn lug nuts, meaning lug centric. And even if the were applicable, they add at least $185 to *each* wheel. Why not just find tires that will work on the factory wheel? Or find different wheels, but personally I trust the factory hub-centric wheels much more than any aftermarket lug-centric wheels.

I assume the wheels you're talking about are 20" right? Toyo offers their excellent AT2 tires in a high capacity LT295/65R20 (129/126S) that's a true 35" tire for example. Their MT is available in the same size (and adds another 1/3" to the diameter). Both will work on factory wheels.

PS For people who say dumb stuff like "I got 295's" when asked how tall their tires are, this is a perfect case of why that is NOT enough information. It is only the tire width, and nothing else. Even the wheel diameter isn't enough. Having trouble processing this mind-blowing bit of basic knowledge? Here's an example: Toyo offers their MT in both LT295/60R20 and LT295/65R20. That tiny bit of difference? An inch and a quarter in diameter.

 

I think on the website he forgot to change the verbiage from the DRW spacers vs the SRW spacers; they both say "in-between dually spacer" on the description.

The website does denote they are hub centric spacers; however it also says wheel-centric aswell.

He did reply back to my e-mail confirming that they would work. I sent another e-mail for further clarification though.

My original e-mail; prior to seeing that the RoughCountry spacers wouldn't work...