water pump dripping on my 1996 F250 5.8L
#1
water pump dripping on my 1996 F250 5.8L
I just replaced the rear freeze plug on my 96 F250 5.8L and prayed my problems were over. No such luck! I believe my water pump is dripping from the weep hole. I also hear a noise that sounds like maybe a bearing going out? I know some basics about working on cars/trucks since I've been working on motorcycles for over 20 years. My questions to y'all are this: 1 - should I not drive the truck anymore until I figure this out, 2 - should I change more than the water pump while I'm there, and 3 - what all do I have to remove to get to the water pump. FYI - I'm a 46 year old recently divorced woman so there is no man to help me and I have to get creative sometimes because I don't have the grip strength to break some things loose. All input will be greatly appreciated.
#2
If your pump is dripping from the weep hole then it is shot. If the bearing noise you hear sounds like it is coming from the front of the motor, it may be coming from the water pump. Take the tension off the belt and see if the fan will wiggle, if it does then that's probably the source of your noise.
To change the water pump you'll need to take the fan shroud loose from the radiator and slide it back over the fan. Remove the fan and then the shroud. Some people remove the radiator as well, to keep from knocking a hole in it. There are three or four bolts holding the power steering pump bracket to the front of the block, remove them and slide the pump to the side. Take the bottom radiator hose off the pump, then there ate @ 9 bolts holding the pump itself on around the perimeter. When you reinstall it be sure to use RTV silicon with the new gasket.
Not sure if I left anything out, hope this helps.
To change the water pump you'll need to take the fan shroud loose from the radiator and slide it back over the fan. Remove the fan and then the shroud. Some people remove the radiator as well, to keep from knocking a hole in it. There are three or four bolts holding the power steering pump bracket to the front of the block, remove them and slide the pump to the side. Take the bottom radiator hose off the pump, then there ate @ 9 bolts holding the pump itself on around the perimeter. When you reinstall it be sure to use RTV silicon with the new gasket.
Not sure if I left anything out, hope this helps.
#4
Word of warning, be very careful removing the water pump bolts. They go through the aluminum timing cover, and corrode over time. They can and do break on occasion as a result. I carefully heated the heads up and gently buzzed them with an air hammer just in case. Anti-seize was used when I put them back in. Unless it's locked up, I wouldn't worry about the fan clutch.
#5
#6
If the fan clutch is ok, I agree to leave it as it is.
As for the bolts breaking, that is true and somehow I forgot about it. The majority of them go into the timing cover and I've never had any problem with those. There are two I believe, one on either side of the pump, where you will see an exposed stud that goes through the pump and timing cover and threads into the block itself. They are right beside the inlet and outlet on the pump and are very weak, and they tens to seize up in the block. If you're not careful, you'll wring them off before you know it.
As for the bolts breaking, that is true and somehow I forgot about it. The majority of them go into the timing cover and I've never had any problem with those. There are two I believe, one on either side of the pump, where you will see an exposed stud that goes through the pump and timing cover and threads into the block itself. They are right beside the inlet and outlet on the pump and are very weak, and they tens to seize up in the block. If you're not careful, you'll wring them off before you know it.
#7
If the fan clutch is ok, I agree to leave it as it is.
As for the bolts breaking, that is true and somehow I forgot about it. The majority of them go into the timing cover and I've never had any problem with those. There are two I believe, one on either side of the pump, where you will see an exposed stud that goes through the pump and timing cover and threads into the block itself. They are right beside the inlet and outlet on the pump and are very weak, and they tens to seize up in the block. If you're not careful, you'll wring them off before you know it.
As for the bolts breaking, that is true and somehow I forgot about it. The majority of them go into the timing cover and I've never had any problem with those. There are two I believe, one on either side of the pump, where you will see an exposed stud that goes through the pump and timing cover and threads into the block itself. They are right beside the inlet and outlet on the pump and are very weak, and they tens to seize up in the block. If you're not careful, you'll wring them off before you know it.
if you aren't lucky and you break bolts, the timing cover has to come off.
good luck
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