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6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van SPONSORED BY:

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  #1  
Old 03-21-2013, 04:30 PM
rowekmr rowekmr is offline
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Opinions on buying 6.0L w/high miles

Hello
I read up on all the issues of the 6.0L from the oil cooler, injectors, VGT, ipr, icp, FICM, stand pipes and dummy plugs and the HPOP to the blown headgaskets.

My question is if an owner follows good maintenance and does some preventive steps like frequent coolant flushes (or filter), keeping fresh engine fluids and filters (OEM), keeps it stock and doesn't beat on it does that minimize potential for the 6.0L problems or can they still pop up?

I have read some reports that the FICM can be from low batteries, the gaskets from plugged oil cooler (sand castings) to bad programmers/tunes. The VGT and EGR soot problems are from excessive idling or granny driving and injector issues from water in fuel from aftermarket fuel filters (no membranes). I just don't know what can be done to prevent HPOP issues.

I have been looking for F250/350 and Excursions focused on 7.3L but found a 03 Excursion from an owner that has had it from 100K to 200K and has been very strict on following maintenance and has had no problems with the engine. He says he owns a fleet of 6 6.0Ls for his business and only has had to replace a HG once because of driver error (low coolant). He swears by the 6.0L's and is about to take his on a 2K trip unless I buy it first. Any info/help is appreciated!
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  #2  
Old 03-21-2013, 05:53 PM
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This is a common question around here. First I gotta point out what you already know, most sellers are going to talk up the vehicle.

The '03 and 04 models have leaf spring up front. The 05 and up have coils. Not talking bad about the leafs, it's a proven set-up, but you do get a little tighter turning radius with the coils, and maybe a little better ride. Also the early high pressure oil pump is a little more prone to problems.

On the plus side, the early tucks have a significantly stronger EGR cooler and no stand pipes or STC fitting to worry about. I also understand the early turbos whistle a little louder also.

The FICM and injector issues were common through all years. A updated spring in the regulator raised the pressure a bit to help with injector issues. The oil cooler is common to all models but is easy to check with a scan gauge or a smart phone app for iPhone and Android if you carry one of those.

I would definitely want to check it out with one of the above monitors. Any of the issues you mention may not be a deal killer, but you will know what to expect and negotiate the price accordingly. Keep in mind also the owner has admitted the truck has been overheated, I would check the degas bottle area for signs of drooling. They are commonly dry white spots that look like splattering. Don't forget to check the condition and type of coolant. Not servicing the cooling system is the main culprit behind oil cooler issues and it can get very expensive if any repair requires the heads to come off. If it's four wheel drive be sure it works and the a/c air doesn't switch to defrost vents when you engage it.

Finally, time flys, it's a ten year old truck now, brakes, wheel bearing, steering, and suspension parts need to be checked over.

In general, I think the 6.0 is a hell of a engine, but it can fail catastrophically if you ignore it or don't recognize the signs of impending doom. Knowing whats going on under the hood is key to avoiding expensive repairs. You gotta have a monitor, and watch it. I have been happy with mine so far and would not hesitate to buy another one if something happened to it. But i will say, the replacement truck would get a serious check out!

Good luck!
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:30 PM
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What problems did you have with your 6.0L and if none what was the secret to your success? how long can these engines last with proper maintenance?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod View Post
This is a common question around here. First I gotta point out what you already know, most sellers are going to talk up the vehicle.

The '03 and 04 models have leaf spring up front. The 05 and up have coils. Not talking bad about the leafs, it's a proven set-up, but you do get a little tighter turning radius with the coils, and maybe a little better ride. Also the early high pressure oil pump is a little more prone to problems.

On the plus side, the early tucks have a significantly stronger EGR cooler and no stand pipes or STC fitting to worry about. I also understand the early turbos whistle a little louder also.

The FICM and injector issues were common through all years. A updated spring in the regulator raised the pressure a bit to help with injector issues. The oil cooler is common to all models but is easy to check with a scan gauge or a smart phone app for iPhone and Android if you carry one of those.

I would definitely want to check it out with one of the above monitors. Any of the issues you mention may not be a deal killer, but you will know what to expect and negotiate the price accordingly. Keep in mind also the owner has admitted the truck has been overheated, I would check the degas bottle area for signs of drooling. They are commonly dry white spots that look like splattering. Don't forget to check the condition and type of coolant. Not servicing the cooling system is the main culprit behind oil cooler issues and it can get very expensive if any repair requires the heads to come off. If it's four wheel drive be sure it works and the a/c air doesn't switch to defrost vents when you engage it.

Finally, time flys, it's a ten year old truck now, brakes, wheel bearing, steering, and suspension parts need to be checked over.

In general, I think the 6.0 is a hell of a engine, but it can fail catastrophically if you ignore it or don't recognize the signs of impending doom. Knowing whats going on under the hood is key to avoiding expensive repairs. You gotta have a monitor, and watch it. I have been happy with mine so far and would not hesitate to buy another one if something happened to it. But i will say, the replacement truck would get a serious check out!

Good luck!
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Old 03-21-2013, 08:40 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rusty Axlerod View Post
Finally, time flys, it's a ten year old truck now, brakes, wheel bearing, steering, and suspension parts need to be checked over.
+1 ... hell make that +100.

Lots of folks wanting to know about the engine on these 'should I buy with high mileage' threads.

200k miles is right about when I started to have all the other stuff besides the engine start to go on me.
Transmission rebuild, powersteering pump, wheel bearings, (although you can service a good bit of the front with parts they tell you are not available) ESOF hubs, alternator, radiator, carrier bearing, calipers, 4 shocks, both rear leafs, both front leafs, fan clutch, mechanism for lowering the spare tire.

The underside of my bed is so rusted I have been told it likely won't pass next years state inspection so I guess I'm saving up for one of them too now.

All older vehicles can be expected to have some similar shopping list required and it can nickel and dime you to death. My 2003 is slowly morphing into a 2012 just through parts swap
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Old 03-21-2013, 09:41 PM
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i let my 99 7.3 go at 350,000 kms - nothing wrong with the engine or trans. just everything else starting to go and costing significant repair $. The truck had brutal early life on the oil patch before i got it.
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Old 03-22-2013, 09:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowekmr View Post
What problems did you have with your 6.0L and if none what was the secret to your success? how long can these engines last with proper maintenance?
Most of the stuff I've done is in my sig at the bottom. Basically, I had a little luck. It's my first diesel truck. I looked online a couple of evenings (but hadn't found FTE yet) and had a clue there could be problems, but I really liked the truck an it was prefect for pulling the 5th camper we were looking to buy. So far my list of issues goes like this:

Trailer lights- fixed wire at rear bumper and new fuse.
Charging system- 2new batteries and had alt rebuilt locally.
CAC boots- replaced both on turbo to intercooler tube.
Coolant- flushed system (VC-9) and installed coolant filter.
Steam out of tailpipe- replaced oil and EGR cooler (+STC fitting)
Low boost- replaced plastic CAC pipe.
Check engine light #8 glow plug- replaced it.

I bought my '06 in '10 with 120k mi. I think it was well taken care of by the previous owner. I expect the coolers to last a good long time, but like I said before, don't depend on the instrument panel to alert you to problems. It will let you down.
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Old 04-21-2013, 03:56 PM
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Thanks for all the suggestions I did finally pick one up with 230K miles that seems to have been used for just carrying kids (not heavy towing) and had been maintained by someone who knows about the 6.0L problems. So far the only issues I am having is the cold start but I just let it warm up for 15 when it is cold (that is what he did) but will look into injector replacement if that is the cause.
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowekmr View Post
Thanks for all the suggestions I did finally pick one up with 230K miles that seems to have been used for just carrying kids (not heavy towing) and had been maintained by someone who knows about the 6.0L problems. So far the only issues I am having is the cold start but I just let it warm up for 15 when it is cold (that is what he did) but will look into injector replacement if that is the cause.
Still runs rough plugged in?

Might be 15W40 oil and cold temps, unless you're talking about having to warm up for 15 minutes when it's 50 outside.

Josh
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:28 PM
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No lately its been 30-40F and I didn't plug it up initially but I do now.

I did a lot of online searching AFTER I bought it and it appears the 6.0L can have cold start issues depending on the FICM programming, oil viscosity, and conditions of injectors (stiction?) starting with the least cost I changed to full synthetic (Ford 10w30 didn't have 5w40), all new Ford filters and added Archoil 9100 oil and 6200 fuel additives and I plug it up for now.

It still runs idles a little rough initially when cold but doesn't smoke and doesn't drive as bad after 10 minutes but it sill doesn't smooth out unless it idles for 15 minutes. I didn't think this was this normal but read others do the same but have been looking at the injectors next. I had it at Ford and told them to check FICM and battery voltage, fuel pressure and injectors and they said the EGR was stuck/bad, batteries were going to need service soon so after replacing all of that they said 4 inj were out of balance but that was before the oil/additive change some say the additives can temporarily cure the stiction but the jury is out on this truck.
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:35 PM
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At 30 degrees unplugged it helps to take it easy at first, it's a diesel after all.

You might have FICM issues, but hard to say without actually hearing the truck start cold or with you not having any digital gauges to see what's going on.



Josh
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Old 04-21-2013, 05:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt390 View Post
At 30 degrees unplugged it helps to take it easy at first, it's a diesel after all.

You might have FICM issues, but hard to say without actually hearing the truck start cold or with you not having any digital gauges to see what's going on.



Josh
Agreed, I have no problems in the Sierras in the high 20's not plugged in. I am running 5w40 with no additives.
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:32 PM
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I asked them to check the FICM voltage (among other things). They could have missed/forgot but next time I will ask for the values.
Does a bad FICM cause the truck to always run rough or just at cold start (like mines)?
I will get gauges next and the Blue spring mod if it isn't already in it. I was thinking of the FICM updates but not sure yet after hearing the newer ones cost hp.
I had them pull an Oasis and I didn't see any updates after 2007.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Bullitt390 View Post
At 30 degrees unplugged it helps to take it easy at first, it's a diesel after all.

You might have FICM issues, but hard to say without actually hearing the truck start cold or with you not having any digital gauges to see what's going on.



Josh
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rowekmr View Post
I asked them to check the FICM voltage (among other things). They could have missed/forgot but next time I will ask for the values.
Does a bad FICM cause the truck to always run rough or just at cold start (like mines)?
I will get gauges next and the Blue spring mod if it isn't already in it. I was thinking of the FICM updates but not sure yet after hearing the newer ones cost hp.
I had them pull an Oasis and I didn't see any updates after 2007.
If the FICM has low output the engine can run like butt.

If the OASIS is showing no updates after 2007 you likely have pre-induction heating strategies. Which means the engine can run rather bumpy cold start, even with 5W40 or 10W30. 15W40 is worse, especially the Buzz Flash.

Does it "Buzz" 30 seconds or so after every engine shut-down?

Josh
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Old 04-21-2013, 08:01 PM
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It's most common by far for FICM output voltage to be low on a cold start and increase as it warms up but there have been some failures that are constantly low through a wide temp range and even a couple who posted the output went down as it warmed up. So hard to say for sure without testing.

If you're considering flashing the truck at the dealer you may want to check on getting the FICM checked out by Ed@ficm.com. There are a few levels of tuning available. Lots of happy customers here at FTE.
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:18 PM
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Bullitt390 I will check for the buzz next time

Axelrod I had planned on getting one of those atlas 40 FICM unless I hear it otherwise from the shop I will take it to. I am looking at monitors now and looks like the Edge shows the most variables that I can see. Eventually this will be taken in to address all issues at a reputably diesel shop.
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Old 04-27-2013, 07:18 PM
 
 
 
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