Shawn, I just did this swap. Prop the biggest hiccup youll run into in a driveway axle swap would be stubborn U bolts holding it in. Start applying rust penetrant early and often and let em soak. They do recommend that you do not reuse them. Not getting into that debate here. Brake jobs are cheap, do it now, with wheel cylinders and center hose. Fresh fluid for the gears. A lil trick to get the ebrake cables outta the backing plates, free the cable from the shoe, then slide a 1/2" boxend wrench over the cable, put pressure and wiggle while pulling on the cable from the rear. Pops right out and smoke your knuckle on the leaf spring. shocks, driveline, vss harness, all simple stuff. Be safe, the truck is held in park by the rear end, so take note. Ive seen it done. As far as going rate for another rear, i cant help, I have parts, now one less 8.8

 

Ok more tips: floor jack under the pumpkin then put JACKSTANDS under frame just in front of leaf springs. Leave jack there and start unbolting, leaving the big u bolts for last. Wrap the ujoint with electricians tape to retain caps or they will fall off. Use the jack to pull the housing out. Reinstall in reverse. On the install of the u bolts two things. The vertical alignment of the bolts, as looking from the rear. They will kick out ward when you apply torque. Wear gloves and hold them straight, youll see what i mean. And also tighten the nuts on one bolt evenly, as far as thead engagement. Undue stress that can be prevented. ( yes I was yelling bout the jackstands)

 

When I replaced the rear axle in my 96 f150 I unbolted the backing plates and took the axle shafts out so I didn't have to worry about bleeding the brakes.

 

Blue is is simply saying that if the OP gets an axle (front or rear) from the JY, he

will have to match the other axle's gearset. It makes sense. Your gearset has to

match front and rear.

 

He has a habit of contributing inaccurate information or giving poor advice. A few members here (myself included) have had to correct his information in other threads to ensure the OP doesn't get confused, do something stupid, buy the wrong part, or injure themselves.

OP- As mentioned, there are probably a few salvage yards and auto recyclers around where you live that should be able to help you out.

xkpsanit hit the nail on the head! If the u-bolts give you problems, use a cut-off wheel or a torch and they'll be just a memory. Be sure to re-torque the new ones after a few miles/days. Great advice regarding replacing the wheel cylinders and axle seals "while you're in there".

It seems like a daunting task, but it really isnt. The other alternative is to call around and see if there are any good driveline or transmission shops that set up differentials. Buy your own parts and pay to have them installed, however it may cost more than a J/Y piece in the end.

 

Forgot about the retorque, poopy. Ive seen diff rebuilds go up to a grand. JY cant be more than $150??? We were just putting wheel bearings/seals in mine, and the crosspin retaining bolt was broke off. Had to blow the cross out with a torch. 3.55's in the parts truck, there is my answer. Had a good vss in it too and now my cruise works. Bonus.

 

Removed - photo tag inop

 

yes that is all i was trying to say

 

yes i will be the first one to admit i was wrong a couple of times for whatever reason (like misreading posts or not reading them all the way)