I've read many threads on cam lift and lifter replcement. I'm going to be installing a 255deh cam with new lifters on a new remanufactured 400 stock motor. Most everyone says that as long as I stay below .500 lift, stock valve springs will work? My valves don't have the rotating tops(i forget what there called). What do you think? will I be alright with no spring replcement? .465/.495

 

It's fine, that's what was in my truck prior to me tearing it down. I also ran a 268H in my old '78 400 with stock springs for years.


Make sure you break in that cam right, run a zinc additive and the proper oil. I recommend Valvoline VR-1 and parts store should carry it.

 

Thanks for the insight. i was worried about too much lift.
Is there any way to tell if this timing chain is straight up ,double roller? I don't know what to look for?

 

No idea. Looks to be a replacement one not factory. I'm running a Comp 2121 in my build, straight up, double roller. They are only like $49

Only way to be sure is to install the new cam, then degree it with that chain and see where it ends up.

 

X10 Cam break in is very important and oils these days SUCK for flat tappet cams.

 

I bought some oil additive & I'm running( just changed) Shell Rotella-t 15-40. Do you think thoses two combined will be suffcient for proper break -in?
COMP Cams Engine Break-In Oil Additive 159 - SummitRacing.com

 

Additive wise yes, assuming the additive you got is good, and diesel oils are already better for cams.

15W40 is really thick though, why so thick?

 

The top chain is straight up. The bottom one looks to be retarded.

 

i got 12 oz. bottle of comp cam oil add #159 COMP Cams Engine Break-In Oil Additive 159 - SummitRacing.com
My dad got me that oil and said here. 15-40 is all wally world stocks.
What grade should I get?

Those pics of the timing chain are one in the same. different angle

 

The additive is great.

As for the oil to use my first knee jerk reaction is simply cause in FTE the "which oil should I use" debate is even worse then the manifold or ported vacuum advance debate.

That said my recomendation would be to work your way down in viscosity and up in synthetic until you get to a 0W30 true synthetic. That said for now with the new cam and the engine having 15W40 in it previously. Using the Rotalla T6 5W40 synthetic is a really good choice.

Get some Hyperlube to use as an assembly oil on the cam bearings, rockers,and timing chain.

The cam will come with break in lube that goes on the cam lobes and base of the lifters.

And get 1 or 2 quarts of Mobil 1 0W20 synthetic or if you can't find that 0W30 to soak the lifters in before installing them.

 

I think he will be fine using the Rotella 15W-40. IMO....its not that thick. I use it year round with no issues. Only wish I'd learned about it 10yrs ago.

 

I'm not saying it would be a disaster, the engine isn't going to blow up. If you want the engine to wear out fast, get bad mileage and risk flatening it's cam then sure 15W40 dyno is just fine.

But if you got some crazy ideas that maybe then engine should last more then 100K, not tear itself apart, not spend your fuel pumping around thick oil, and not wait and count the seconds while it rattles and wears out on cold start ups then maybe just maybe a more appropiate oil is a good idea.

Not that thick, can't believe you said that, your funny

 

Do your research guys, Rotella does not have the levels of ZDDP anymore that flat tappet cams need.

Comp Oil
Valvoline VR-1
Brad Penn Oil

Etc. are your only choices if you want to be safe!

 

Yeah your right, but it's good bang for the buck. If ya think ya need more you can toss in an additive.

 

Just for curiosity sake what do you think my torque numbers will be after my 255deh cam install with peformer 400 intake,holley 650 vac sec.?
stock 400 block & heads
straight up timing
stock exhaust manifolds, single 2" Y pipe with cherry bomb muff., no tail pipe
auto,33" tires , 4.10's
Maybe around 400ft.lbs at 2500 rpms?????????????