1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

1965 Ford F-100 Restore

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Old 03-19-2013, 12:21 PM
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1965 Ford F-100 Restore

New member here! Hi everyone! I had recently signed up to get some advice on my 1989 F150 but not I have taken on another project after my great uncle has passed. Its a 1965 Ford F100 that needs a good mini restore (Minor welding of rust and some retrofits).

The truck is a 1965 Ford F100 Custom Cab that has had a 351W transplanted in it with a C6 trans. The steering column is out of a 70's model to use the auto trans. I have torn alot of it down and found more than I bargained for LOL. There is large rust spots on both sides of the cab floor pans. This project is going to be a budget build as it stands now so I have decided to do 16 gauge weldable sheet metal instead of buying the original pans from LMC truck (around 175$ a side!). I have decided on a Crown Vic front suspension and keeping the 351W in hopes to convert it over to a roller engine with GT40 heads and a B/E/F cam.

I will have plenty of questions as I go with this build and could use all the knowledge I can get!

Here is a video of its first start in YEARS!


PICTURES!!!!!!

Here is when I first brought the truck to my buddies garage.






The tear down!









First repairs being done!





Any questions or suggestion is ALWAYS welcome! Again this will be a slow process but I will update it as work is done.
 
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:09 PM
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Doesnt look too bad.

I would consider blasting the floor of the cab, the under side of the cab, inside the box, and the underside of the box. Looks like there could be more rust there than you think. Doesnt take that much effort to pull these off either.

You plan on doing a disk brake swap to the front?

Plan on doing any engine work?

Keep the pics coming.
 
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:15 PM
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Originally Posted by C G B
Doesnt look too bad.

I would consider blasting the floor of the cab, the under side of the cab, inside the box, and the underside of the box. Looks like there could be more rust there than you think. Doesnt take that much effort to pull these off either.

You plan on doing a disk brake swap to the front?

Plan on doing any engine work?

Keep the pics coming.
Great suggestion. I am going to take the cab off the frame one I get the dash and wiring situated. It is getting a 03 and up crown victoria suspension which will have disc brakes and full rack power steering. Engine work is in the books but will have to see how money goes after the fab work is complete.
 
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Old 03-19-2013, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon Harrison
Great suggestion. I am going to take the cab off the frame one I get the dash and wiring situated. It is getting a 03 and up crown victoria suspension which will have disc brakes and full rack power steering. Engine work is in the books but will have to see how money goes after the fab work is complete.
After all the work Ive put into mine, you can figure that what you see before blasting is about a 1/3 of the rust that is really there. Blast it and POR15 it or something along those lines. May as well do this while you have it ripped apart.

Im not much of a Crown Vic swap guy. Dont care for the look of it with the rims you have to run to make the swap work. Ive been tossing around just using drop beams or something like that. To each their own though bud.

You should be able to leave the wiring pretty much intact in the cab. Just unplug on the front of the firewall, disconnect or pull the steering column and lift it off. Probably take 4 people with the heater, wiring, and glass in it. Can easily lift a stripped cab with 2 guys.

Same goes for the box. Unplug and remove lights and remove wiring harness. Unbolt everything (if you can) and lift it off.
 
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Old 03-19-2013, 02:27 PM
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Originally Posted by C G B
After all the work Ive put into mine, you can figure that what you see before blasting is about a 1/3 of the rust that is really there. Blast it and POR15 it or something along those lines. May as well do this while you have it ripped apart.

Im not much of a Crown Vic swap guy. Dont care for the look of it with the rims you have to run to make the swap work. Ive been tossing around just using drop beams or something like that. To each their own though bud.

You should be able to leave the wiring pretty much intact in the cab. Just unplug on the front of the firewall, disconnect or pull the steering column and lift it off. Probably take 4 people with the heater, wiring, and glass in it. Can easily lift a stripped cab with 2 guys.

Same goes for the box. Unplug and remove lights and remove wiring harness. Unbolt everything (if you can) and lift it off.
The main reason I want to go with the crown vic is the added comfort to the ride. The old Twin I beams were good but if I can give it the ride of a car that would sure be awesome! I also like the dropped look and there are tons of mods for the crown vic suspension.
 
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Old 03-19-2013, 11:06 PM
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Originally Posted by Brandon Harrison
The main reason I want to go with the crown vic is the added comfort to the ride. The old Twin I beams were good but if I can give it the ride of a car that would sure be awesome! I also like the dropped look and there are tons of mods for the crown vic suspension.
Thats easy, sell it and buy a crown vic. Go to the movies, done.
Sorry! LOL
Budget, Uhmm that sounds kinda 2013 ish for sure. I hope you have better results than our present spree in the big house.

A W engine is pretty cheap to get 427+ inches, and good trq. Crate or hands on. Since your using in a truck, be sure the cam fits the bill. Loud and Nasty doesn't mean it has any knads rolling out of home depot with 2 yards of premix or the like for a weekend project.

Steel: the union of new 16g and the present sheet will be plenty fun. If there is pitting the process that takes place in welding has already begun in the host metal. This may prove to be quite the feat. Question fluffy shiny metal, try a coupon tab before axing the 16G with great expectations. Bead Roller ? brake/shear/roll ?

ALL IN ALL CHALLENGE IS GOOD!

 
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Old 03-20-2013, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Redmanbob
Thats easy, sell it and buy a crown vic. Go to the movies, done.
Sorry! LOL
LOL I figured I would get some neg feedback on this from people who like to keep their trucks stockish which there is nothing wrong with it but I would like to have a more modernized ride and safety for the truck with the added 5 inch drop. This swap is a direct bolt in with a few mods. Below are pictures of trucks with the suspension installed.

Originally Posted by Redmanbob
Budget, Uhmm that sounds kinda 2013 ish for sure. I hope you have better results than our present spree in the big house.
Almost 95% of people in america are on a budget LOL I am just limited on what I can spend on this at a time due to the wife. There is tons of stuff I would like to do to it but I would be a single man If I did.

Originally Posted by Redmanbob
A W engine is pretty cheap to get 427+ inches, and good trq. Crate or hands on. Since your using in a truck, be sure the cam fits the bill. Loud and Nasty doesn't mean it has any knads rolling out of home depot with 2 yards of premix or the like for a weekend project.
The head cam combo I have picked out is a mild cam with a moderate lope sep. GT40 heads with upgraded springs and 1.6 RR's along with the B/E cam will at least bring some new life in this mid 70's engine. The engine itself as it sits runs strong with no leaks or smoking which is a good sign since it has sat for years. I have been contemplating just finding a late 80's 302 HO roller engine and putting in it but for the same price I could just do the head/cam combo I mentioned before. As for a stroker kit, I do not think I will mess with the bottom end unless its changing the oil pump and pan gasket.

Originally Posted by Redmanbob
Steel: the union of new 16g and the present sheet will be plenty fun. If there is pitting the process that takes place in welding has already begun in the host metal. This may prove to be quite the feat. Question fluffy shiny metal, try a coupon tab before axing the 16G with great expectations. Bead Roller ? brake/shear/roll ?
Yes I have welded some of it and for the most part it welded OK but I will have to have patients while I weld because if I get in a hurry I can burn right through it.

Originally Posted by Redmanbob
ALL IN ALL CHALLENGE IS GOOD!

Yes it is a challenge for me because this is my first big build. I am just usually rebuilding engines or fixing things here and there LOL.


PICTURES OF SUSPENSION SWAPS




 
  #8  
Old 03-26-2013, 08:30 PM
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doing the crown vic swap on my 64
 
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:31 PM
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doing the crown vic swap on my 64
Im trying to add pics not sure if its working
 
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Old 03-26-2013, 08:34 PM
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Old 03-26-2013, 10:34 PM
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Very nice project, appreciate the build pics. Not a cheap hobby but definitely fun.

D
 
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Old 03-27-2013, 05:54 AM
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:22 AM
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Ok everyone sorry for the late response. Found out I am loosing my job this friday so I have been dealing with that but it also gives me more of an excuse to work on the truck more. This saturday I plan on taking the front fenders and core support out along with trying to get the engine loose and ready to be removed. I also plan on finishing the smoothing of the floor pans for new metal.

Originally Posted by robnotbob
Oh nice! Can you give me some pointers on the swap? I could use all the advice I can get

Originally Posted by dman2008
Very nice project, appreciate the build pics. Not a cheap hobby but definitely fun.

D
Oh yea these things take time and money.

Originally Posted by jowilker
NICE! Thanks for the link!
 
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Old 03-27-2013, 11:40 AM
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Sorry about your job, i lost mine almost a year ago if it.wasnt.for side jobs idk where id.be.i love.these trucks ipl have.one one day
 
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Old 03-27-2013, 06:28 PM
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Ya sorry to here you news about your job.
I can try to answer any questions you have, but this is a new hobby
for me . this is my first project. Im having fun with it and the swap was a good place to start. I did narrow the K member about 1 5/8 inch for a better fit.
Rob


John, thanks for the help with the link
 


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