Who all here would recommend changing my fan clutch while i'm in the process of removing the fan etc to replace my water pump?

Who else would recommend switching to electric fans?
a new fan clutch is over 100 bucks last time i checked.

Any prices on e-fans?

 

i really like my e-fan swap.it's been working great for a long time now.lot's of bonuses to running 'em.
details here;
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ar-diesel.html

 

If i decide to go for a new fan clutch, anyone had good experiences with certain brands?
ALSO, great to find that my water pump did not come with a gasket, good to find that before i drain my truck of coolant and have it torn apart and discover i have no gasket to put the pump on with -.-

 

water pump install tip;
remove the old water pump bolts while setting each bolt into their corresponding bolt hole of the new pump.this way you wont frig up your ip.if you pay attention and look,you can see where the short bolts go,but if you do it this way,you won't have any mishaps.

 

when i was planning to replace my non-functional fan clutch, i bought every brand i could find without going to the dealer, and nothing i tried was any better than my old one. they should lock up when they get hot enough, thats the whole point, but none of them ever did.
i've heard rumor that the ones straight from ford actually work like they're supposed to

on a related note, removing the fan clutch from the water pump isn't always the easiest thing, as most parts stores can't order the wrench for it. so after looking all over town, i bought myself a vise-grip style chain wrench from harbor freight, its a bit tricky to wrap the chain around the wrench flats of the fan clutch, but once its on there, use a hammer to turn the wrench, while the belts remain in place to hold the water pump still for you. remember that it has left-handed threads, so removing the fan clutch will have you beating your wrench toward the drivers side of the truck

f250hdxlt, your post suggests that screwing up the order of water pump bolts will frig up the IP, that must be an error... but that is a good plan for how to keep your bolts in order

 

either an error or a horror.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ter+pump+bolts

 

well, i guess i missed that thread when it was new... thats a weird one! but i appreciate that you're passing on the info - even if i did think it was an error

 

yeah,ya never know when sharing a tip will save someone a very bad day or two.

 

Yeah f250 i've heard of the horrors. with the new water pump came 2 new bolts not sure for which holes. probably the top 2 that everyone speaks about, will have to see how long the old ones are, not sure if i need to use the new ones or not.
I suppose i'll head to the ford dealer to buy one. ugh, probably really expensive.
and luckily my father has BOTH wrenches for the fan clutch, probably 20 years old those things haha

 

I do alot of towing and I have had good luck with the napa serive duty fan clutch, a pluged up radtior can make your fan clutch not work, you need to have air flow to atavate the clutch

 

I was kind of thinking the radiator could be clogged with something in the first place because the engine seems to get a little too hot as well as the guage going a little more to the hot side than i'd like.
I guess while im there i'll take it to get it rotted out

 

don't forget that the factory temp gages on these trucks tend to lie a lot. i used to really worry about mine, as it would usually be around the "l" of "normal", but a real gage said its consistently 195-200, even with erratic readings on the stock gage.

 

Hmm, yes i have heard. Was gonna replace it just because i hear that most of them are bad and no one ever worrys about it. I guess i'll do a test on mine just to see, kind of need a heat gun.
Just seems really really hot under the hood after running

 

With how easy it is to install a real gauge, you should really install one. No more guessing games afterwards.


I got a Sunpro temp gauge from Autozone, something like 20 bucks?


Run the probe to the Temp light sender at the front of the drivers side head, (using that sensor, allows for your dash gauge to keep working, as well as having a real gauge reading), run that through the firewall, and hook up powerground to the gauge for the light bulb to work, and that's it.

 

where did you tap into john? for power