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2012 F-150 trailer lights not working

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Old 03-17-2013, 06:59 PM
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2012 F-150 trailer lights not working

Ok we have a 2012 F-150 and are trying to hook up a 16ft trailer but have no lights. We know the trailer wiring is fine (works on other vehicles) but we have no power at the 4 pin trailer connector. We have checked the fuses and all are fine. Has anyone else had this problem on a 2012? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 
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Old 03-17-2013, 07:58 PM
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Have you towed anything with the truck previously? Is the truck brand new? If so, check your glove compartment or map pockets in the door. You should have a little baggie with some extra fuses in there. You will need to install these extra fuses to get power to your trailer wiring harness. Your owner's manual should have a section on where to install these extra fuses. I personally was befuddled until I noticed the baggie in my truck and installed them. All is well with mine.

Oh, and welcome to the boards.
 

Last edited by Jus2shy; 03-17-2013 at 07:59 PM. Reason: Welcome message :)
  #3  
Old 03-18-2013, 12:38 AM
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yes jus2shy is right! look for the fuses they go in #9 and relay goes in #21 if you have the relay in 21 and fuse in 9 check to see if fuse is blown! mine blows every time i use my car trailer because the brake and battery charger are back wards on the old trailer!
p.s. welcome and good luck!
 
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Old 03-28-2013, 09:51 AM
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Thanks guys! We had already put the fuses into place. Ended up taking it to the Ford dealership and a relay was bad is what they said.
 
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:17 AM
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this is good to know, I havent hooked my fx4 to a trailer yet (not this one anyway) and I would be pissed if it didnt work. It has a trailer hitch for a reason, why would these not be installed? I did see the fuses and relays in the bags in the door pockets, just thought they were extra.
 
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Old 03-28-2013, 01:41 PM
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It sounds like delivery checklist stuff. When the vehicles get shipped certain systems aren't activated. I bought a Subaru years and years ago and they didn't install a relay enabling the AC. Was sweatin like crazy, brought it back for blowing hot air. Service department said the same thing, "oh yeah, the flux capacitor went bad" or something like that.

Talked to the mechanic who did it later, he told me the real story, that they never did the delivery checklist. All he had to do was plug in the relay from, wait for it....the little plastic baggie in the glove box.

AC I can understand, but not installing the trailer light electronics sounds a little odd. Not saying that's what's going on here, just thought I'd share that experience for any potential new car buyers out there. Test everything before you drive off the lot. You know that salesman is going to make it right lickity-split if the deal's on the line. Later on after you've signed, take a number...
 
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Old 03-28-2013, 02:21 PM
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The relay and fuse in the glove box doesn't have to be installed for the lights to work. That is just for auxiliary power to the 7 pin connection for power inside a trailer or camper. Tails Lights should still work without them there.

Check the ground in the trailer and wiggle it around Some on the trailer ball. Sometimes new ***** have paint and need to be scuffed up a little to make connection. Also check the connection on top of the spare tire of the truck. Make sure it is completely locked in.
 
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:49 PM
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Originally Posted by 04XLTRUNNER
The relay and fuse in the glove box doesn't have to be installed for the lights to work. That is just for auxiliary power to the 7 pin connection for power inside a trailer or camper. Tails Lights should still work without them there.
I just looked that up and that's pretty cool. Never knew about 12V from that center pole. Would be nice to charge up the RV batteries when you're running down the road. Thanks for the info.
 
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Old 03-28-2013, 04:59 PM
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We use it on our dragster trailer for the lighting inside. Works really well. Only drawback is the key has to be on.
 
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Old 03-28-2013, 11:37 PM
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Originally Posted by 04XLTRUNNER
We use it on our dragster trailer for the lighting inside. Works really well. Only drawback is the key has to be on.
and if motor is not running you kill the battery in your truck!
 
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:27 AM
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Not really because all the lighting is led. They can stay in for hours before having to worry about a battery
 
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Old 03-30-2013, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 04XLTRUNNER
Not really because all the lighting is led. They can stay in for hours before having to worry about a battery
well not on my old trailers but ya i can see the advantage of the led!
 
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Old 03-30-2013, 09:37 PM
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Got curious and hooked to my car trailer and they worked. Can't wait to get the cobra on the trailer and hit the road...
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 03:35 PM
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What fuse under the hood is for the running lights? We have brakes and blinkers. The running lights work on another truck. We changed the fuse inside the truck with no luck.
 
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Old 01-20-2014, 04:06 PM
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First, before I appear to hijack this thread, nice to meet you guys. I have spent years over on the diesel/Superduty threads here, and about 2 weeks ago turned in the big 1 ton crew for a '12 F150 XLT. I may not haul the world anymore, but wow, I feel like I hit the lottery. 20MPG and so quiet I can listen to a conversation!

Second, I hooked up a rear view camera to my plate light, thinking the running lights stayed on. Wrong. Just enough light (or lack thereof) in my shop to keep them triggered. When I hit bright daylight, they shut off, taking my camera power with it. I checked the 7 blade plug, and everything but the 12V hot works. Is this the #9 fuse mentioned before? Was actually getting ready to search for it but found this. And, this hot stays hot full time, or is it ignition based? I would like to have my camera on to be able to babysit a trailer if needed. For now, I can just manually turn on my headlights, but would like to make things a bit less complicated.

Thanks for the help. Seems like some pretty cool dudes lurking around here.
 

Last edited by fordff; 01-20-2014 at 04:08 PM. Reason: More info


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