1992 F150 2WD, 5 speed transmission:

I went to replace the rear brakes, and find that the axleshaft on the right side is leaking. Could anyone give me the steps to replace the seals (and the inner bearing and seal if that is also leaking)? I searched the archives but didn't see anything obvious.

The hub does not have any holes in it, so it is *not* the older style axle shaft that just pulls out. I am assuming I have to take off the differential cover, and remove something in there to pull the axleshaft out.

Thanks in advance! The local mechanic wants $530 to do the job, and I just can't afford that right now.

 

I did an axle seal on my brothter's f-150 a few years ago and as I recall we had to open the diff and pull a clip to release the axle and let it come out. do yourself a favor and do both sides at the same time.... the price for your wrench to do it seems abit high since I recently had a rearend completly rebuilt and re-ratioed and it cost around 800.00 at a HIGHLY reputable driveline shop here locally and they went through everything from wheel to wheel. I'd get a secomnd estimate if I were you...

Craterjoe

90 f-250 sc 7.3l diesel
94 f-150 sc I-6 auto (for sale)

 

Yep, you have to remove the differential cover. Then remove the pin in the center of the carrier (its held in by one bolt with an 8mm? head, the pin should slide right out after the bolt is removed. Then push each axle toward the center of the truck, remove the C clip on the ends of each axle, and slide the axles out.Then you can replace the seals.

When going back together push the axles all the way in - put the C clips on, and then pull the axles out a little bit- the c clip will bottom out in the carrier and not allow the axle to come out any farther. Then put the pin back in, tighten the bolt, and re-install the cover.

 

Be very careful removing that small 8mm bolt! It strips easily.

Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.


Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Superduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Top speed is 65mph, Go Baby Go!

 

I forgot to mention than when you pull the axle out, inspect the shaft and check for pitting or bumps from the bearing. Check the condition of the bearing too. If you can run your finger over the axle and feel the pitting, than they probably should be replaced.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.


Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Superduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Top speed is 65mph, Go Baby Go!

 

Thanks for all your help! It seems like a straightforward job. My local NAPA has the outer seal ($2.30) and, if I need it, a "repair bearing" that includes the inner seal with a new bearing.

The price quoted by the local mechanic included an $82 part charge for the outer seal . I live in New Jersey, and I guess they think they can (and I guess they do) get away with such criminal prices.

One last question, should I replace the 8mm bolt with a new one? Is it a "one use only" type of bolt, or can I just reuse the old one and use some Loctite on it?

 

Yes you should replace it.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.


Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Superduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Top speed is 65mph, Go Baby Go!

 

make sure while you have the axles out not to move the rearend by the driveshaft because the spider gears can fall out.

 

I had both rear axle bearings & seals replaced at the Pep Boys in Riverdell GA (Atlanta) for about $225 for the complete job + the additional cost of Valvoline synthetic gear oil (my choice). $800 sounds more than a bit high. Get a second opinion. BTW, they did first quality work and got me back on the road quickly (I was on a business trip at the time; thanks Tim!)

 

The 800.00 was for a COMPLETE rebuild of the rear end and a re-ratio form 3.08 to 3.73 gearing. it was howling pretty bad whren it went in, but sounds great now. I had an axle seal that failed to seat up afterwards and the shop asked how soon I could get it back in to be taken care of, i had it there in an hour and had it back an hour after that. I am very pleased with their workmanship and professional approach to what they do and the way i was treated as a customer..


Craterjoe

 

Sounds like some good service. 800 for new gears and a rebuild is decent.


Primary rig is Green Thunder:
95' F-150 XLT 4x4, 302, 5 spd, MSD 6A, Flowmaster American Thunder Exhaust, Sunroof, Clear corners w/ Diamond headlights, CD player with 2 10" subs and some 32" BFG Muds .

Check out my Gallery for a look-see.

Then theres:
99' Mustang GT 4.6L
88' F-250 Heavyduty 4x4 351/c6
95' Mercury Cougar 4.6L V-8
80' E-350 300/6 with a
3 spd column shifter. Weighs around 7,000lbs w. 65mph top speed, who wants to race me!

 

I did the repair on Friday, and everything worked out perfectly. Had to change out the brakes as well since one side was soaked with oil.

It was actually easier to take out the rear axle than to do the brakes! Heck, those bendix drum brakes are a real nightmare of springs and clips.

One trick I used was to put the axle seal in the freezer for about 20 minutes, and it drove into the axle shaft pretty easily.

Thanks again for all your help!

 

 

glad to hear that it worked out for you.
I never considered putting the seal into the freezer though what did that accomplish?

The brakes were an added opportunity since you were already in there. once you have done them a time or two it's not so hard jhust remember to only do one side at a time so you can reference the other side when it's time to reassemble and keep in mind that it's a mirror image from one side to the other. i have had to help a few people get thier turds back into a ball after they had torn both side apart at the same time

Craterjoe

1990 f-250 sc 7.3 diesel
1994 f150 sc i6 auto (for sale)

 

When a piece of metal is frozen, it shrinks, heat it, it expands. So I played this trick: it was about 95 degrees outside, so the axle shaft was hot and slightly expanded. I froze the seal, which shrank it a tiny bit, but just enough to make it drive in easily.

I learned this trick with a car whose front hubs had pressed-in bearings. You put the hub into the oven at 200 degrees, and put the bearing into the freezer. After twenty minutes, take both out. The bearing just drops in!

The only problem is that you have to bear the tongue lashing from your wife when she sees you pulling a greasy hub out of the oven ;-)