My 1970 F100 Flareside (Pic Heavy)
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#79
final plans will have it mostly stock but in top running condition.
I plan to sand and primer in a flat black. The box that covers the fuel tank in the bed will get a wooden slat bench with seat belts for the minion so it will be legal. That along with some 16 inch f150 wheels will be most of the how it looks changes.
Here are the wheels
Two of these were on the back of the truck when I got it. The tires are dry rotted so I couldn't leave them on it.
Drive train changes will be minor. I am thinking about changing the rear gears to be a bit more highway friendly, a T18 with 4.09-1 rear gears doesn't do well in today's hustle and bustle. I will stick with the manual trans because I enjoy it. I also feel that it belongs in these older trucks. I love the 300 I6 and it will be pulled, freshened up, and go back in. I will do the 3G alternator swap along with some HID lighting. Also in the future is A/C. My wife refuses to ride in the truck without it. I currently have no intentions of adding PS or PB. The truck drives great without them.
Interior I plan to add a rubber floor mat, should harness seat-belts, and add some sound. Other than finding the rest of the pieces I need to complete the stock interior, not much else will happen. I am still considering power windows and locks with keyless entry.
This is a truck I want to enjoy driving for a very long time. I feel if I make it too shiny I will be scarred to drive it. That and people would be more likely to break into it.
I plan to sand and primer in a flat black. The box that covers the fuel tank in the bed will get a wooden slat bench with seat belts for the minion so it will be legal. That along with some 16 inch f150 wheels will be most of the how it looks changes.
Here are the wheels
Two of these were on the back of the truck when I got it. The tires are dry rotted so I couldn't leave them on it.
Drive train changes will be minor. I am thinking about changing the rear gears to be a bit more highway friendly, a T18 with 4.09-1 rear gears doesn't do well in today's hustle and bustle. I will stick with the manual trans because I enjoy it. I also feel that it belongs in these older trucks. I love the 300 I6 and it will be pulled, freshened up, and go back in. I will do the 3G alternator swap along with some HID lighting. Also in the future is A/C. My wife refuses to ride in the truck without it. I currently have no intentions of adding PS or PB. The truck drives great without them.
Interior I plan to add a rubber floor mat, should harness seat-belts, and add some sound. Other than finding the rest of the pieces I need to complete the stock interior, not much else will happen. I am still considering power windows and locks with keyless entry.
This is a truck I want to enjoy driving for a very long time. I feel if I make it too shiny I will be scarred to drive it. That and people would be more likely to break into it.
#80
final plans will have it mostly stock but in top running condition.
I plan to sand and primer in a flat black. The box that covers the fuel tank in the bed will get a wooden slat bench with seat belts for the minion so it will be legal. That along with some 16 inch f150 wheels will be most of the how it looks changes.
Two of these were on the back of the truck when I got it. The tires are dry rotted so I couldn't leave them on it.
Drive train changes will be minor. I am thinking about changing the rear gears to be a bit more highway friendly, a T18 with 4.09-1 rear gears doesn't do well in today's hustle and bustle. I will stick with the manual trans because I enjoy it. I also feel that it belongs in these older trucks. I love the 300 I6 and it will be pulled, freshened up, and go back in. I will do the 3G alternator swap along with some HID lighting. Also in the future is A/C. My wife refuses to ride in the truck without it. I currently have no intentions of adding PS or PB. The truck drives great without them.
Interior I plan to add a rubber floor mat, shoulder harness seat-belts, and add some sound. Other than finding the rest of the pieces I need to complete the stock interior, not much else will happen. I am still considering power windows and locks with keyless entry.
This is a truck I want to enjoy driving for a very long time. I feel if I make it too shiny I will be scarred to drive it. That and people would be more likely to break into it.
I plan to sand and primer in a flat black. The box that covers the fuel tank in the bed will get a wooden slat bench with seat belts for the minion so it will be legal. That along with some 16 inch f150 wheels will be most of the how it looks changes.
Two of these were on the back of the truck when I got it. The tires are dry rotted so I couldn't leave them on it.
Drive train changes will be minor. I am thinking about changing the rear gears to be a bit more highway friendly, a T18 with 4.09-1 rear gears doesn't do well in today's hustle and bustle. I will stick with the manual trans because I enjoy it. I also feel that it belongs in these older trucks. I love the 300 I6 and it will be pulled, freshened up, and go back in. I will do the 3G alternator swap along with some HID lighting. Also in the future is A/C. My wife refuses to ride in the truck without it. I currently have no intentions of adding PS or PB. The truck drives great without them.
Interior I plan to add a rubber floor mat, shoulder harness seat-belts, and add some sound. Other than finding the rest of the pieces I need to complete the stock interior, not much else will happen. I am still considering power windows and locks with keyless entry.
This is a truck I want to enjoy driving for a very long time. I feel if I make it too shiny I will be scarred to drive it. That and people would be more likely to break into it.
Concur with the power windows and locks. I'm not that tall and can't reach to unlock nor roll down the passenger side. You have the same issue?
For AC, check out Nostalgic AC - 1967 - 1972 Ford Truck F-Series A/C System - Ford Complete Kits - Complete AC Kits
CA state law bans bed riders... it totally sucks. I had plans to build a frame and mount some plastic buckets like Subaru did with their Brat.
#81
That sounds like a great plan. If it's too nice then I'd get all paranoid about door dings, jean rivets, and belt buckles. I'm leaving most of the surface rust but removing the stains with cleanser. The only telltale sign that something is amidst is a newer steering wheel and the 5-speed shiftball on a Hurst shifter. Otherwise, it'll maintain the farm truck look that it is.
Concur with the power windows and locks. I'm not that tall and can't reach to unlock nor roll down the passenger side. You have the same issue?
For AC, check out Nostalgic AC - 1967 - 1972 Ford Truck F-Series A/C System - Ford Complete Kits - Complete AC Kits
CA state law bans bed riders... it totally sucks. I had plans to build a frame and mount some plastic buckets like Subaru did with their Brat.
Concur with the power windows and locks. I'm not that tall and can't reach to unlock nor roll down the passenger side. You have the same issue?
For AC, check out Nostalgic AC - 1967 - 1972 Ford Truck F-Series A/C System - Ford Complete Kits - Complete AC Kits
CA state law bans bed riders... it totally sucks. I had plans to build a frame and mount some plastic buckets like Subaru did with their Brat.
I am 5'10'' and it is rather awkward and annoying to lean across. I am all for making things functional for me to be able to just enjoy driving my truck.
Thanks for the A/C links. I am doing my research before I drop that kind of $$, so all the info I can get is helpful. I am not so sure about that unit. I was looking more towards the ones that replace the heater box with a box that holds both.
#83
It has been a while since I had anything to add to this thread. I have been so busy with RL and family stuff that I have not really done anything but drive the truck.
Today I was able to take some time and do the 3G alternator swap. I ran into a couple minor issues and don't have the alternator mounted but it is ready other than needing a washer to go behind the pulley. It rubs slightly on the case. I found the the alternator bracket needed to be notched to fit the 7 inch 3G. It is the same size as the stock but there is part of the case that needs clearance. I have pics of how I made it work. I am glad to have it finally ready and even found another gotcha in harness that was removed. I have been extremely lucky with the inside the cab wiring being very un-molested, but the under-hood wiring has been a mess. I believe this to be the last of the butchered under-hood wiring.
Here is what got replaced
and here is the gotcha that I found
here is how I modified the bracket
here is how it now fits the new alternator
I know some people go with the big fuse, but I decided to go with a 150amp breaker. Using the harness from the donor vehicle I was able to wire the entire setup.
Next thing is the waterpump, and heater core. I will try to remember to take pics as I go. I tend to get wrapped up in what I am doing and forget to snap pics through the process. I have some loom and relays on the way so I can also do the headlights and clean up the engine bay a bit.
Today I was able to take some time and do the 3G alternator swap. I ran into a couple minor issues and don't have the alternator mounted but it is ready other than needing a washer to go behind the pulley. It rubs slightly on the case. I found the the alternator bracket needed to be notched to fit the 7 inch 3G. It is the same size as the stock but there is part of the case that needs clearance. I have pics of how I made it work. I am glad to have it finally ready and even found another gotcha in harness that was removed. I have been extremely lucky with the inside the cab wiring being very un-molested, but the under-hood wiring has been a mess. I believe this to be the last of the butchered under-hood wiring.
Here is what got replaced
and here is the gotcha that I found
here is how I modified the bracket
here is how it now fits the new alternator
I know some people go with the big fuse, but I decided to go with a 150amp breaker. Using the harness from the donor vehicle I was able to wire the entire setup.
Next thing is the waterpump, and heater core. I will try to remember to take pics as I go. I tend to get wrapped up in what I am doing and forget to snap pics through the process. I have some loom and relays on the way so I can also do the headlights and clean up the engine bay a bit.
#84
Well, I was making some good progress and then when changing the thermostat the housing snapped. I was afraid that was going to happen. The way it was flexing when I took it off I was surprised it was in one piece.
Well I have the 3G alternator on and working great. Installed a new water pump and was halted with the housing breakage. I will still be doing the heater core here in a bit. Just stopping for a bite to eat and to search online for a new T-stat housing.
Well I have the 3G alternator on and working great. Installed a new water pump and was halted with the housing breakage. I will still be doing the heater core here in a bit. Just stopping for a bite to eat and to search online for a new T-stat housing.
#85
I was able to get a new housing today and finished up all the work. I got the new heater core in. I forgot all about getting pics as I went. I was a bit flustered from the T-stat housing fiasco. It was the easiest heater core I have ever done. Took the hoses off and then took the 3 nuts off in the engine compartment. The thing literally just fell into the floor. Then you just remove the cover bolts and it pulls out. There is a boot that connects the heater box to the vent than you need to pull the clips off and lift it off the vent. Mine wasn't properly connected so I did this after the heater box was in the floor.
My cooling system is now leak free. My charging system is now strong enough for today's current accessories. My lights no longer dim or pulse when idling. They also don't dim with the turn signals. I also grabbed a new V-belt that was 1/2 inch shorter than the stock belt. I didn't like the fact that the stock length put the adjustment at almost max.
also to anyone interested, I used an 11/16th copper oil drain plug washer to shim the pulley on the alternator.
My cooling system is now leak free. My charging system is now strong enough for today's current accessories. My lights no longer dim or pulse when idling. They also don't dim with the turn signals. I also grabbed a new V-belt that was 1/2 inch shorter than the stock belt. I didn't like the fact that the stock length put the adjustment at almost max.
also to anyone interested, I used an 11/16th copper oil drain plug washer to shim the pulley on the alternator.
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It's not very often you'll hear a guy like me say this, but get a few "cute" pics for yourself of your Minion helpin' ya out. You'll like looking at them when she's grown up. Example. Back when my 32 year old daughter was about 3 or 4 she was helping me wash my car. After I rinsed out the 5 gallon pail I had the soapy water in she climbed in it. She looked so cute with her little knees sticking up outta the pail. Head cocked to one side slightly. Big O' smile on her face. Blonde hair shimmering in the sun. I picked her up pail and all and put her on the hood of my car to get a better pic. Years ago I gave that pic to my ex-wife to get copied. Supposedly it got ruined and is now gone forever. DON'T miss your chance now Greg!