My 1970 F100 Flareside (Pic Heavy)
#137
#138
I have decided to build the new motor and then put it in the truck. It will be a bit before I have the funds for the machine shop and all the possible parts it will need.
This means the floor mat and door/window seals will have to wait.
I started a thread in the inline6 forums https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14894768
I am looking for upgrade advice for functionality, not performance. I want it to be relatively stock. here is what I am planing so far.
switching the manifold bolts to studs.
new non-nylon timing gears.
pertronix I
new lifters
possibly push rods, not sure if this is something really needed unless they are bent or damaged.
valve seals
cam/crank/main bearings
piston rings
water pump
oil pump
carb rebuild
fuel pump
feel free to add to the ideas or needed/recommended parts list
This means the floor mat and door/window seals will have to wait.
I started a thread in the inline6 forums https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post14894768
I am looking for upgrade advice for functionality, not performance. I want it to be relatively stock. here is what I am planing so far.
switching the manifold bolts to studs.
new non-nylon timing gears.
pertronix I
new lifters
possibly push rods, not sure if this is something really needed unless they are bent or damaged.
valve seals
cam/crank/main bearings
piston rings
water pump
oil pump
carb rebuild
fuel pump
feel free to add to the ideas or needed/recommended parts list
#139
valve job.
pistons of whatever size it will take to clean up the cyliners.
pushrods prolly won't be necessary so keep the positions of the old ones and their rocker arms together.
tune up parts
all fluids.
misc rubber products.
gaskets and seals.
If ya rob Hio's bank to pay for this be carefull which money ya grab.
pistons of whatever size it will take to clean up the cyliners.
pushrods prolly won't be necessary so keep the positions of the old ones and their rocker arms together.
tune up parts
all fluids.
misc rubber products.
gaskets and seals.
If ya rob Hio's bank to pay for this be carefull which money ya grab.
#140
I already have a full gasket set and new style one piece oil pan gasket. I figured the fluids and tune up parts were and automatic.
The valves and pistons are only if needed. I am hoping it won't need to be bored out. Valves might be a necessary evil. I will only find that out once I can afford for it to get to the machine shop. Will also have them checking the piston wrist pins
The valves and pistons are only if needed. I am hoping it won't need to be bored out. Valves might be a necessary evil. I will only find that out once I can afford for it to get to the machine shop. Will also have them checking the piston wrist pins
#141
OK, the engine tear down began today. I still need to get my engine stand from my buddy's house so I just worked on the top end.
I took several pics as I was going so if anyone sees something amiss let me know.
here is the beginning.
here are the manifolds after removal. No broken tabs or bolts! Also the exhaust manifold is not cracked, unlike the one currently on the truck.
Manifold #'s
valve cover removed. Internals are extremely clean
inspection cover removed
Head removed with gasket still attached.
without gasket
Pistons all look good other than lots of carbon build up.
little tag and bag going on
I also removed the clutch (which is new!) and the harmonic balancer but don't have pics of that.
Finally some progress at last.
I took several pics as I was going so if anyone sees something amiss let me know.
here is the beginning.
here are the manifolds after removal. No broken tabs or bolts! Also the exhaust manifold is not cracked, unlike the one currently on the truck.
Manifold #'s
valve cover removed. Internals are extremely clean
inspection cover removed
Head removed with gasket still attached.
without gasket
Pistons all look good other than lots of carbon build up.
little tag and bag going on
I also removed the clutch (which is new!) and the harmonic balancer but don't have pics of that.
Finally some progress at last.
#142
Before turning the parts into the machine shop, I suggest gasket-matching the intake and exhaust ports. It,s not tog hog them out but rather to smooth the air flow and by removing the casting roughness... about the first inch of each passage is all it takes. A couple of carbide bits and a box of cartridge rolls is about $50 from Summit.
#143
#144
#146
#149
The motivation of a fresh engine (especially in the cases where the engine is powerful and will propel the vehicle to a high rate of speed in a short distance) is fun and all that, but it isn't much fun if you can't bring the vehicle to a (controlled) stop, --quickly.
I know your six banger, like mine, isn't going to be a screamin' demon but a fresh engine is going to run stonger.
The brakes are THE most important system of a vehicle, followed by the steering/suspension. If either one of these isn't up to par, starting with the engine is going backwards, to me. If either the brakes or steering/suspension are marginal with the stock engine, a stronger engine is only going to make their weaknesses more pronounced.
Ultimately, it's your truck, money and time and you decide what area to work on and in what order.