6.0L Power Stroke Diesel 2003 - 2007 F250, F350 pickup and F350+ Cab Chassis, 2003 - 2005 Excursion and 2003 - 2009 van

leaking oil/engine light

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
  #1  
Old 03-11-2013, 10:45 PM
lauraj's Avatar
lauraj
lauraj is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: TX
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
leaking oil/engine light

Hi all,

2007 F350, 6.0L 150,000 miles.

Noticed couple drips of oil on driveway yesterday. Today, while driving, check engine light comes on. When we got home, crawled under and saw quite a bit of oil leaking from rear of engine. Not sure where exactly the source is.

Just had the head gasket replaced several months ago.

Any idea on what to expect at the dealer for possible diagnosis/cost??

Thanks!

Laura
 
  #2  
Old 03-12-2013, 12:59 AM
run6.0run's Avatar
run6.0run
run6.0run is offline
Postmaster
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Kansas City MO
Posts: 3,174
Likes: 0
Received 1 Like on 1 Post
Do you have one of these


Or any other way to pull your own codes?? Autozone has it.

As for the oil,, pics will get you more attention. Have you looked under there, bed plate, turbo, prob not a rear main, but the dealer might want to change it anyways. Bed plate requires engine removal. Lets hope it's a turbo drain tube, or maybe the hpop cover didn't get sealant on it. Who did the head gaskets, did you get studs put in?

Sux to answer a question, with a question huh. Lol
 
  #3  
Old 03-12-2013, 01:25 AM
04badford's Avatar
04badford
04badford is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Manteca,Ca
Posts: 7,478
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
Hello Lauria , are we sure its oil , we need to check a few things . 1. are we running right ( no stall, cold morning start,hot problem start ) what weight of oil ? 5-40 synthictic would be of choise , do you have a scan tool like ( scan gauge or dash boss ) ? Make sure Its not coolent from the wrap around heater core hose this hose will be from ( degus bottle /rocker cover/ ficm )( Main prob) back side of IPR or up side , around rocker to heater core,Also check center EGR cooler blue hose. I"M thinking ficm/ head bolt ware thru>>.or heat off turbo up pipe>>
 
  #4  
Old 03-12-2013, 01:32 AM
04badford's Avatar
04badford
04badford is offline
Lead Driver
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Manteca,Ca
Posts: 7,478
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
p.s what are the codes If any the scan gauge will pull codes ,with out a lite on.
 
  #5  
Old 03-12-2013, 08:28 AM
lauraj's Avatar
lauraj
lauraj is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: TX
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
It has been running normal. Pretty sure it is oil. No scan tools. Oil changed the other day at Kwik Kar Lube - not sure what they use. We had seen the drops on the drive the day before though. I am surprised his guys did not mention the leak - they are usually pretty good about that. Ford did the head gasket repair ( stretched bolts!!) and recommended we put racing bolts on to prevent this from happening again ( which we did).

Laura
 
  #6  
Old 03-12-2013, 09:11 AM
Mich6.0's Avatar
Mich6.0
Mich6.0 is offline
More Turbo
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Grand Rapids,MI
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 3 Posts
it could be the return tube on the turbo. I have an 04 and thats where it was leaking from. Two dealerships couldn't find the leak under warranty and 1 had the truck for a week while I was out of town.
 
  #7  
Old 03-12-2013, 09:59 AM
69cj's Avatar
69cj
69cj is offline
Hotshot
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Middle Tn.
Posts: 13,827
Likes: 0
Received 12 Likes on 11 Posts
Originally Posted by lauraj
It has been running normal. Pretty sure it is oil. No scan tools. Oil changed the other day at Kwik Kar Lube - not sure what they use. We had seen the drops on the drive the day before though. I am surprised his guys did not mention the leak - they are usually pretty good about that. Ford did the head gasket repair ( stretched bolts!!) and recommended we put racing bolts on to prevent this from happening again ( which we did).

Laura
If they used an a/m filter and/or cap get them out of there asap, replace with oem, and then see if your still getting a code after a reset. You may also want to make sure they are using an API CJ rated diesel oil.
 
  #8  
Old 03-12-2013, 10:02 AM
amdriven2liv's Avatar
amdriven2liv
amdriven2liv is offline
I'm hitting easy street

Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 6,390
Likes: 0
Received 21 Likes on 16 Posts
Like the highlighted words!!!

May even have cracked the oil filter cap. Check the cap and filter housing just below the cap. Good chance the leak is there.

Here is a great picture of the difference in caps:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...12&postcount=1
 
  #9  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:17 PM
lauraj's Avatar
lauraj
lauraj is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: TX
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by amdriven2liv
Like the highlighted words!!!

May even have cracked the oil filter cap. Check the cap and filter housing just below the cap. Good chance the leak is there.

Here is a great picture of the difference in caps:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...12&postcount=1
Ford says check engine light is due to bad FICM. $ 725 just for part. Says they cannot see oil leak and want to remove turbo to look. Total quote to replace FICM and pull turbo $1400 plus what ever they find on oil leak.

Does this sound reasonable?
 
  #10  
Old 03-12-2013, 02:39 PM
lauraj's Avatar
lauraj
lauraj is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: TX
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by lauraj
Ford says check engine light is due to bad FICM. $ 725 just for part. Says they cannot see oil leak and want to remove turbo to look. Total quote to replace FICM and pull turbo $1400 plus what ever they find on oil leak.

Does this sound reasonable?
Kwik Kar says they used an aftermarket Penzoil oil filter...
 
  #11  
Old 03-12-2013, 03:00 PM
Piolet's Avatar
Piolet
Piolet is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Francestown, NH
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
If the Pennzoil filter is one with the correct patent number on the bottom then it will be the correct filter. That will mean it was made by Racor which is the company who makes the filters for Ford and Motorcraft.

If it does not have those numbers on the bottom then it is not the correct filter no matter how much they protest, no matter how much it looks just like the proper one, and no matter what box it comes in. Patent numbers!!



For the FICM, don't do anything until you chat with Ed at FICMRepair.com. He could save you hundreds of dollars!!!
FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair
 
  #12  
Old 03-12-2013, 03:02 PM
Edogsf350's Avatar
Edogsf350
Edogsf350 is offline
Senior User
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Jerome Idaho
Posts: 358
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Replace the oil filter with OEM filter.....

Check out FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair I just sent my dads FICM to Ed for repair for $225 plus shipping. All this is easy to do if your able to turn a wrench( if your comfortable ).bad battery's and or alternator will take out the FICM and that in turn will take out injectors
 
  #13  
Old 03-12-2013, 03:07 PM
lauraj's Avatar
lauraj
lauraj is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: TX
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Edogsf350
Replace the oil filter with OEM filter.....

Check out FICM Repair.com - Your Source for FICM Repair I just sent my dads FICM to Ed for repair for $225 plus shipping. All this is easy to do if your able to turn a wrench( if your comfortable ).bad battery's and or alternator will take out the FICM and that in turn will take out injectors
Thanks guys. Will have to talk to hubby about ficm. He can turn a wrench when he wants to.
I saw the ad for Ed's site. I assume reluable? Would it need reflashing? Is FICM easy to get too?
Oil? Would it be easy to see if oil leak from replacement filter or from cap? Still not sure about them pulling turbo. $$$$$ What are other possibilities? I am thinking have them do another oil change with OEM and monitor.
 
  #14  
Old 03-12-2013, 03:31 PM
Piolet's Avatar
Piolet
Piolet is offline
Posting Guru
Join Date: Oct 2006
Location: Francestown, NH
Posts: 1,693
Likes: 0
Received 2 Likes on 2 Posts
The oil change you can do yourself if you are even half way mechanically capable.

Loosen the oil filter cap, the filter will come out attached to the underside of the lid. Remove the filter, and the o-ring around the lid. Clean the lid. Dip the new o-ring in some clean oil and put it on the lid. Snap the new filter up into the base of the lid. Screw the lid back in and don't over tighten.

Under the truck unscrew the oil drain plug. Let the oil drain into a collection pan and bring it to recycling. Clean the plug and put it back in. Buy 15 quarts of the correct oil (which oil to choose is a whole other thread. You won't go wrong with Shell Rotella T-6 5-w40 or Delo 400 LE 5w-40, but there are others). Buying 4 x 4 gallon jugs is better value than a load of 1 quart bottles.
Pour 13 quarts in the oil filler spout. Give it a few minutes and check the dipstick. You may find that 13 quarts does it for your engine, maybe it'll be 14, 14.5, maybe it'll be 15. Because of the high pressure oil system each engine can be a little different. Start the engine check for leaks.

You'll save yourself a load of cash and you'll know it's done right.
 
  #15  
Old 03-12-2013, 03:35 PM
lauraj's Avatar
lauraj
lauraj is offline
Senior User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: TX
Posts: 135
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Originally Posted by Piolet
The oil change you can do yourself if you are even half way mechanically capable.

Loosen the oil filter cap, the filter will come out attached to the underside of the lid. Remove the filter, and the o-ring around the lid. Clean the lid. Dip the new o-ring in some clean oil and put it on the lid. Snap the new filter up into the base of the lid. Screw the lid back in and don't over tighten.

Under the truck unscrew the oil drain plug. Let the oil drain into a collection pan and bring it to recycling. Clean the plug and put it back in. Buy 15 quarts of the correct oil (which oil to choose is a whole other thread. You won't go wrong with Shell Rotella T-6 5-w40 or Delo 400 LE 5w-40, but there are others). Buying 4 x 4 gallon jugs is better value than a load of 1 quart bottles.
Pour 13 quarts in the oil filler spout. Give it a few minutes and check the dipstick. You may find that 13 quarts does it for your engine, maybe it'll be 14, 14.5, maybe it'll be 15. Because of the high pressure oil system each engine can be a little different. Start the engine check for leaks.

You'll save yourself a load of cash and you'll know it's done right.
Thanks...I understand and it is something we have discussed doing ourselves. Not reallyset up at the moment. I am more concernedabout the oil leak. Ifthey are looking under the turbo, what are the possibilities?
 


Quick Reply: leaking oil/engine light



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:54 PM.