Sanding primer
#1
#2
To start with, I gotta ask, are you blocking the primer for flatness or just knocking the high spots off? If you already painted the door jambs or whatever is behind the parts you removed and you're ready for final color, then sure, bolt it together, align all the panels and give it a good sanding. But if you haven't painted the jambs yet, do that first, then bolt it together, then final sand the primer. Also, if you didn't use epoxy primer, I'd dry-sand it, because non-epoxy isn't water-proof. If it's epoxy, use warm water with a few drops of dish soap (I use Dawn) and sand it using a rubber sanding pad to keep your fingers from digging trenches in the primer.
#3
To start with, I gotta ask, are you blocking the primer for flatness or just knocking the high spots off? If you already painted the door jambs or whatever is behind the parts you removed and you're ready for final color, then sure, bolt it together, align all the panels and give it a good sanding. But if you haven't painted the jambs yet, do that first, then bolt it together, then final sand the primer. Also, if you didn't use epoxy primer, I'd dry-sand it, because non-epoxy isn't water-proof. If it's epoxy, use warm water with a few drops of dish soap (I use Dawn) and sand it using a rubber sanding pad to keep your fingers from digging trenches in the primer.
I'm thinking of using 3m anti squeak strips at sheet metal connections
Any thoughts on that
#4
Excellent advice from Sand Man. I always mock up for proper alignment and fit first, before sanding primer. Are you going to paint jambs with the rest of the vehicle while everything is assembled? I know some do but if possible, and as Sand Man mentioned, I suggest painting all the jambs after mock up. I also block sand the primer with the parts off. It helps with being able to reach all areas easily and flattening panel edges without burn through. If you would like, and after mock up for proper alignment, you can always mark proper alignment locations using anyone of several methods (small drill holes, minor scribing, etc) then remove the parts and paint them off the vehicle to ensure excellent coverage, absolutely no tape lines anywhere and no mottling from trying to "reach" into places (if you are spraying a metallic). I usually use 3M Soft Edge Foam masking for jamb masking if I am blending or spotting. I have even used plain masking tape by back masking (that is dependent on access to the panel seams). I always paint vehicles disassembled when restoring or painting complete vehicles, not blending or spotting. These are just my opinions. I know many do not paint disassembled because they are worried about paneling matching and the like, but if you keep track of your technique, coverage patterns, gun set-up and air settings, it shouldn't be an issue (it may be an issue if you are spraying candy concentrates).
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Osagebow
1980 - 1986 Bullnose F100, F150 & Larger F-Series Trucks
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12-04-2017 06:53 PM