1948 - 1956 F1, F100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Fat Fendered and Classic Ford Trucks

A little cooling trouble

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  #16  
Old 03-12-2013, 08:45 PM
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So I have come to the realization that the radiator I bought is basically not going to work good for my truck. Turns out it is a smaller version for inline 6 engines. No wonder its having trouble cooling lol. Advance had this radiator listed for use with the V8 engine and for inline 6 engine. But they also listed another radiator for a V8 that is around $260. Well I obviously bought the wrong one . Now I'm searching for aluminum after market radiators. Dang it sucks when you realize you blew about $200+ (radiator, hoses, cap,fan) on a part you can't use But I know there are worse things that could happen
 
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Old 03-12-2013, 09:52 PM
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Been there, got the (wrong size) tee shirt. I feel yer pain.
 
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Old 03-12-2013, 10:52 PM
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Well as long as you have to get a new radiator. I would try to find as close to an OEM style and size of a radiator that would take advantage of the cooling path that is already built into your truck hood and grill. If you use a narrower radiator for instance, air could by pass around it, loosing some cooling capacity. You could build some air dams around the radiators' sides, but if you could find a copy of the OE radiator. You wouldn't need the extra fabrication.
 
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Old 03-12-2013, 11:47 PM
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Originally Posted by hooler1
Well as long as you have to get a new radiator. I would try to find as close to an OEM style and size of a radiator that would take advantage of the cooling path that is already built into your truck hood and grill. If you use a narrower radiator for instance, air could by pass around it, loosing some cooling capacity. You could build some air dams around the radiators' sides, but if you could find a copy of the OE radiator. You wouldn't need the extra fabrication.
Thanks for bringing that up cause I had completely forgot about that! That makes the most sense
 
  #20  
Old 03-13-2013, 05:10 AM
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I agree with Hooler1. Do everything that you can to direct air thru the radiator. I have yet to test my setup. Mine is a 49 setup with a Dodge truck radiator cooling a stroked 383 sbc. I set it up to tow building a custom shroud with the largest mechanical fan that I could swing, an after market (Zips) waterpump setup that centers the fan to the radiator core and full air deflectors. Is the air coming thru the "nostrils" in the hood directed to the top of the radiator?
 
  #21  
Old 04-01-2013, 06:48 PM
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Well we sold our boys baby bed and the wife said I could use the money towards a new radiator, (whahoo!) then I was able to sell my mustang radiator which gave me enough dough for a new one. I think this one will do the trick. The core looks to be 2.5" thick compared to the mustang rad which was only 1-1/4 thick LOL This think is huge compared to that mustang radiator.



Here is a pic I took before I sold the mustang radiator

 
  #22  
Old 04-01-2013, 09:34 PM
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Now that's a radiator! It's almost too pretty to hide behind a grill! It kind of reminds me of when I was having cooling issues with my rebuilt .040 over 302. It ran cool on the dyno, but in the truck behind the 2 row, Mustang type radiator and grill, it would overheat in only 2 miles. I tried all the cheaper stuff. Bought new thermostats, temp gauges, radiator caps, different water pumps, played with the timing, carb jetting, drained, refilled, and re burped the cooling system different ways numerous times. Even bought an infrared temp gun (take these with a grain of salt by the way, they only show you surface temperature not core temp.) Finally replaced my 2 core Mustang style radiator with an OEM style 4 core. So what happens? The engine runs cooler. Good thing you would think.....but instead of running at 225 to 230, it's now running at 155! A little too cool. So to fix that, I tried adding a full fan shroud. One of those that cover the entire back of the radiator except for a 14" hole for the electric fan. That served to limit the air flow, during open road situations, which raised the engine temp to around 180, and allowed focused air flow draw from the fan in stop and go traffic. With a fan switch that goes on at 195 and off at 170. Even during 98 degree temperature last summer, it seems to works well for me.
 
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