2007+ Expedition & Navigator2007, 2008, 2009 and 2010 Ford Expedition and Lincoln Navigator
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AC Drain tube, sunroof drain, plugs, and rear pinion seal today
I put all that stuff in the title so people that search the interwebs maybe can find some info..
now on to the fun stuff: today was passenger front window regulator, rear pinion seal, cleaning of the sunroof drains, and install the ac drain TSB elbow, and spark plugs.
Plugs- 07 Expy EL LMD 145k miles with original plugs. I had no issues getting the plugs out, and applied a very light coat anti-seize to the new plugs. The old plugs didn't look to bad to be the original, but they were definitely needing to be changed. (pics tomorrow)
I've noticed some occasional wetness back in the spring/summer and couldn't find it and now in the winter too, so a little searching I tried these two things:
what I think happens with the ac drain is: it drains and saturates the heat/ sounds stuff i the engine bay. this then sticks to the drain clogging it by not letting the water leak out the way it was designed. so some leaks out and some leaks in. simple enough to figure out.
AC Drain- (no pics sorry) (part number for the elbow is in the diy) I followed this DIY for the older body style. some points of interest: 1. our body style doesn't have the black cover, you just need to trim the heat matting to expose the drain nipple 2. you do not need to boil the elbow to make it more pliable, just add a little lube of some kind and trim off a couple of the little fins on the drain tube. will slip on like butter 3. you don't a long screw driver or other there is plenty of room to reach in there after you remove the finder liner. other than this the DIY is pretty good for a starting point. any questions please ask and i'll try to help. Ford AC drain elbow installation... - Ford Expedition Forum (off site)
Sunroof Drains- Open the sunroof and in the very front corners of the track assembly are holes (1) per side. As with all of my sunroof VW's I used some pressurized air (like hose not can) through there to purge out any clogs then ran a few cups of hot water to make sure my water flow was good. Yep it was good after that. Not so good when I started, so I think this at least helped. The drains get clogged and water will back up into the car and get the carpet wet. I think this could have been an issue for me since the truck has sat for 3 days with it snowing and raining and when I got in today the floor was wet. so I dove in; fingers crossed it's fixed. Next will be the 3rd tail light gasket..I've seen crazier things.
Window Regulator- This went out on me back in the fall but since the truck sits unless the entire family goes somewhere (family of 6) I didn't feel the need. But while I was at all this other crap why not.. Easy enough, remove the door panel, unplug everything, tape the window up, unbolt everything, then replace. simple enough.
Rear Pinion Seal- Went for an oil change (buddy of mine owns it so no up charging), and was told the rear pinion was leaking. So I had a friend help me swap it out tonight. some things to point out 1. there are 2 different sizes (i don't remember exactly what), but mine took the larger size. 2. take your time because mine was stuck on pretty good after 145k miles and a lot of hot and cold seasons
Next up will be a full trans service and fluid change. Not a flush.
Window regulator thay easy to take out? Mine went out on me last year and I've been dreading changing.it out
one screw behind the open door handle, two screws under a little flap inside the close door pull, one one the side of the door panel, a couple on the bottom. pull out and up on the panel to remove it. then unplug the tweeter and switches.
remove the sound deadening mat from the door frame. unplug the rest of the door harnesses, remove the wire on the door handle ( it has a little pin so be sure to look how it is attached) then start unbolting everything.
when doing the little rubber feet that hold the window it's easier with two people but not needed, but unbolt them and slide the window up and tape in place. remove the old regulator. remove the motor, then reconnect the motor and door switches again to test the motor with out the regulator.
now, you must have the window switches connected and the main door harness plugged in to do this. at first I thought mine was bad, until I connected everything except the regulator. if it still doesn't work then replace it.
also on the dorman regulator I bought I had to shave a little plastic to get the motor to fit exactly right (not hard to do but kind of hard to explain). put it all back together in reverse order, and make sure all the wires harnesses are ran properly. and that's it..
I would say if you can change your own oil, you can do this. Honestly; it was as easy as buying the part at autozone (or your favorite parts house), and just doing it. took about 30-45 mins. the new one is all one part with no wires to rerun. only have to transfer the motor, a little sensor looking thing, and the door speaker.
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