Fixing to do the swap from tfi to the duraspark 2 and have been looking over the wiring diagrams for this change .Painless wiring is pretty much simple , but includes no diagram for the temperature coolant wiring.Looking in haynes it shows the tcw is hooked up to the ecm which will be removed.Anyone have the wiring diagram for the temp.cool.sensor and also will removing the ecm(finally) have effects on other components such as air cond. clutch recycling switch, neutral safety switch etc . Thanks all help appreciated TR

 

There are two... a sender that sends to the dash gauge; this is either red/white-stripe or white/red-stripe, I forget which. The other red/white combo is for the oil pressure sender.

There, there is a two-wire (I believe) sensor located on the radiator hose gooseneck, that is the one that goes to computer.

The two have nothing to do with each other, nor does the computer have anything to do with the charging system, HVAC, NSS, or anything else outside of engine control & management.

 

I have done quite a few of these "conversions". My current conversion on my 86' with a/c was quite simple. I wanted to use the TFI coil that was wired in already so I utilized the existing wiring that was already connected to the coil and also utilized the current wiring to each of the connectors (oil pressure, and water temp). All else was removed from the harnesses that existed in the engine bay.

Since i was changing the carb, I didn't retain the wiring from the high idle circuit solenoid on the old carb although that lead connector is still present on the passenger side fender-well should i want to hook it up to my new carb later.

I then fabricated a new (3) wire harness from the new distributor to the new DSPark control box

Whichever way you wire your distributor, you shouldn't need anything more than the engine temp lead (which you now have) and your oil pressure lead ( which you also now have).

The rest of your engine bay wiring will depend on which Ford product you are converting.

 

Thanks, I do believe there Are two wires to the goose neck sensor, so the goose neck wires need to be hooked too the red /white or vice versa and grounded for my gauge to continue working properly TR

 

No (two wire sensor) needs to be hooked up to make your temp gauge work

 

I am using the painless 30812 wiring harness and plan to use the original stock resistor.Painless wiring schematic is good . Looked for wiring diagram for the temp sensor to no avail for the duraspark 2.Haynes shows 2-3prints (different)one side being grounded other to red white wire. TR

 

Mo matter what any schematic says..you should become familiar with the following two (2) single wire leads that exist now in your truck.

1. Your engine temp sender lead (1 wire)
2. Your engine oil pressure lead (1 wire)

Find these and isolate them. they are now in use. these you will keep. No matter what any other diagram says, these exist now and will continue to be used.

( To isolate them it may be beneficial for you to unwrap the harness that contains these wires and and lay them aside and tag them for use later after clipping all other wires out of that particular existing harness)

To these your new painless wiring be added...

 

Yes, this, exactly.

The two-wire connector for the computer's sensor has absolutely nothing to do with the dash gauge's sender.

For the dash gauges, power comes into the ICVR (Instrument Cluster Voltage Regulator) which "pulses" the power to make it appear as ~5.5 volts.

From the ICVR, power goes to the oil pressure and temperature gauges through the cluster's printed circuit.

Coming off each gauge is a single wire - either red/white or white/red (well, the printed circuit is again in between them, but, conceptually, this is how it works). Those wires lead to the senders on the engine, the senders control each circuit's (dash gauge's) connection to ground, thereby controlling needle sweep on the gauges.



The two-wire thing on the gooseneck is used by the computer to make engine-management decisions; if you are removing your computer, those wires and that sensor can go, too.

 

Thanks Ctubutis and John just looking over all the wiring , still waiting on the intake (Clifford's) ,have the rest in hand to do this swap TR