My new oil by-pass thanks to FTE
#1
My new oil by-pass thanks to FTE
I set out on this project a while back and with the help of WoodnThings, Tugly, Guzzle.., etc... I finally finished it. I went overkill with the Parker hoses and even put a blue cover on them for added protection. My hoses were a little long but I guess thats better than too short.
A close friend bent the metal for me and it fits inside the frame rails, it's not as robust as WoodnThings but it should work. I had two of them made so I could also do my tranny when I get time/money. Here are some pics for fun, I would have never done this without the help of FTE members so a huge thanks to all those who helped.
Question: For the tranny - I am not comfortable cutting the metal tubes - doesn't it make sense to use the same parker tubing and tap into the supply/return line from the beginning versus tapping in by the tranny? I only ask because my buddy provides the hoses for cost and it seems like a cleaner install.
Here is a pic showing the mount and filter - I need to drill into the top of the frame rail but my drill bit dulled too much.
This is the metal that fits inside the frame rail.
I am a little concerned about protecting the filter - but I can always put a metal guard around it or by a transfer case bracket thingy
A close friend bent the metal for me and it fits inside the frame rails, it's not as robust as WoodnThings but it should work. I had two of them made so I could also do my tranny when I get time/money. Here are some pics for fun, I would have never done this without the help of FTE members so a huge thanks to all those who helped.
Question: For the tranny - I am not comfortable cutting the metal tubes - doesn't it make sense to use the same parker tubing and tap into the supply/return line from the beginning versus tapping in by the tranny? I only ask because my buddy provides the hoses for cost and it seems like a cleaner install.
Here is a pic showing the mount and filter - I need to drill into the top of the frame rail but my drill bit dulled too much.
This is the metal that fits inside the frame rail.
I am a little concerned about protecting the filter - but I can always put a metal guard around it or by a transfer case bracket thingy
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#8
This can greatly reduce wear in the engine.
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This is on my to-do list... I even have most of the parts here. Woodnthings is the guru on this one, he's had his for a while and checks his oil with Blackstone. I think he goes 10K between changes. That right there pays for the mod, and then some... making it an investment with dividends.
#12
I've been using a Racor bypass system for nearly 5 years now and am running 15k-18k between changes. The length of time you can "get away with" will be strongly determined by EACH of the following:
- degree of filtration (2 mmicrons, 5 microns, etc.)
- oil quality (dino vs synthetic, presence/absence/quantity of extreme wear additives like moly or zinc, viscosity index, TBN, flash point, etc.)
- quality of intake air filtration
- driving style
- degree of filtration (2 mmicrons, 5 microns, etc.)
- oil quality (dino vs synthetic, presence/absence/quantity of extreme wear additives like moly or zinc, viscosity index, TBN, flash point, etc.)
- quality of intake air filtration
- driving style
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I've had a FS 2500 bypass filter since the truck was 1yr young. It has a 2 or 3 micron filter that they say to change at 10k. I change oil and filters every year, which is under 5-6k. Its only an oil change. Why push it? And its only had 5/40 syn in it since new. The bypass is just for good measure.
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I still go 10K. Blackstone has recommended longer intervals, but I am still nervous about it. I know the oil on the dipstick is still amber at 7500 miles and starts getting a little discolored as the miles add up. I was really impressed with the oil color in the HPOP reservoir though. It was much better looking than without the filter added.
I change my by-pass filter at 5k and fill it with new oil when I change it.
I change my by-pass filter at 5k and fill it with new oil when I change it.