Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Small Chassis Trucks > Ranger & B-Series
Sign in using an external account
Register Forgot Password?


Ranger & B-Series All Ford Ranger and Mazda B-Series modelsSPONSORED BY:

Welcome to Ford-Trucks Forums!
Welcome to Ford-Trucks.com.

You are currently viewing our forums as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is fast, simple and absolutely free so please, join the Ford-Trucks Forums community today!





 
Reply
 
 
 
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Search this Thread
  #1  
Old 03-01-2013, 03:14 AM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94 rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
rangergirl94 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Gotta replace lifters on 4.0 help

My 94 ohv 4.0 has been tickin but now im getting bad mpg I changed rocker arms and push rods and its still really loose im gonna do lifter but can pull heads replace lifters gaskets and head bolts and be fine or do I have to shave the heads because I really tight for cash
Reply With Quote
  #2  
Old 03-01-2013, 08:10 AM
tomw tomw is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: suburban atlanta
Posts: 4,128
tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.
As the valves get worn, they will generally cause the valve train clearance to decrease, not increase. Given that, it would make sense that the lifters would have less likelihood of tapping as the parts age, even less if you replace the rockers and pushrods with new having no wear.
Use the wooden handle end of a hammer, or a piece of wood to press firmly and continuously on the pushrod side of a rocker arm when the engine is at idle. You should be able to collapse the lifter and make it tap. Release, and it should cycle over a short time to close the clearance and become quiet. You should be able to narrow down which one, or more, are causing your noise. If the lifter taps all the time, you may have a stuck or leaky lifter or poor oil pressure.
I would not suspect you have to do anything to the head as long as you aren't having other problems.
tom
__________________
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
Reply With Quote
  #3  
Old 03-02-2013, 11:29 PM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94 rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
rangergirl94 is starting off with a positive reputation.
that didnt work anymore ideas lol if I replace them can I get by without shaving the heads
Reply With Quote
  #4  
Old 03-02-2013, 11:54 PM
nlassley nlassley is offline
Freshman User
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: clovis
Posts: 30
nlassley is starting off with a positive reputation.
You will be fine unless the heads are warped.
Reply With Quote
  #5  
Old 03-05-2013, 02:28 PM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94 rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
rangergirl94 is starting off with a positive reputation.
I held the handle down on the rocker arm again and the lifter pumped up and stoped ticking and compression at an ide went from 120 to 150 on that cyl but after running alittle it colapsed again does this mean the lifter is shot??
Reply With Quote
  #6  
Old 03-06-2013, 12:27 PM
tomw tomw is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: suburban atlanta
Posts: 4,128
tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.
Before you condemn the lifter, check the actual oil pressure. There was a cam insert wear problem on that engine. Don't know when/if it ever got 'fixed', but it caused the pressure to be low, or flow... The lifter that taps might just be the loosest lifter of the bunch, and is the weak point that demonstrates you have a different problem. Before going through the process to R&R the lifter, I'd be sure I had good oil pressure.
The symptoms of ticking / tapping after bleed down and re-fill indicate the lifter is not sealing, {or getting enough oil pressure to get full enough to stop tapping} and it has let out some oil around the inner piston, and allowed a gap to occur. The oil pressure is supposed to 'fill the gap' using pressure on the bottom of the internal piston to take up the slack in the valve train, then the ramp on the cam lobe comes around, pushes the outer lifter body up a fraction, and internally the piston is sealed, and the oil held locked in place to move the pushrod w/o clicks and clacks. If there is not enough pressure to push and keep the piston up against the pushrod, taking out the slack, the piston will have allowed some slack, and you get the taps...
tom
__________________
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
Reply With Quote
  #7  
Old 03-06-2013, 07:01 PM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94 rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
rangergirl94 is starting off with a positive reputation.
It has good oil pressure on the guage? Your over my head now lol
Reply With Quote
  #8  
Old 03-07-2013, 09:58 AM
tomw tomw is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: suburban atlanta
Posts: 4,128
tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.
The 'gauge' that the factory installs, even the analog with a needle, is faked, unless they have changed their practice. To know the actual oil pressure in the oil gallery, you need to disconnect and remove the current pressure sensing unit, and install a mechanical gauge. Likely the sending unit is actully a 5-8 psi normally open switch. When pressure gets to 5-8psi, the switch closes, and provides ground to the gauge through a resistor on the back of the instrument panel that adjusts the needle to 'mid-range'. Unless you have a large, bulbous sensor mounted to the engine, it is fake.
I know of no other way to check pressure. If you had a 2.3, you could remove the cam cover, start the engine for a few seconds, and, after rustproofing the underside of the hood along with all engine components with crankcase lube, shut it off. They are a literal hurricane of oil under the cam cover when they are running. The 6? not so much.
tom
__________________
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
Reply With Quote
  #9  
Old 03-08-2013, 03:30 AM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94 rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
rangergirl94 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Ok I hook a real guage in it and see I just gotta get better mpg its getting 12 now and alot less power now
Reply With Quote
  #10  
Old 03-08-2013, 08:11 AM
tomw tomw is offline
Postmaster
 
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: suburban atlanta
Posts: 4,128
tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.tomw has a very good reputation on FTE.
If the pressure regulator goes bananas you will get terrible mileage, just about half of normal. They can stick so the fuel pressure is too high, or they can leak through the diaphragm. They are not cheap either, so if you have a good boneyard.... figure $100+ for a new one.
IOW check your fuel pressure. I make the assumption the plugs & wires, air filter, timing, etc are all good, and tire pressure is correct and the transmission doesn't slip or stay in low gears excessively...
tom
__________________
It's not how hard you work, it's how much you get done. Simplificate and add lightness
Reply With Quote
  #11  
Old 03-08-2013, 07:03 PM
rangergirl94's Avatar
rangergirl94 rangergirl94 is offline
Elder User
 
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Geneva,Ohio
Posts: 656
rangergirl94 is starting off with a positive reputation.
Yes I put new platnum plugs in it ran seafoam in it and trans is good
Reply With Quote
Old 03-08-2013, 07:03 PM
 
 
 
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
lifter plastic top off 4.0 broke4now Ranger & B-Series 2 05-17-2013 08:55 PM
91 explorer 4.0l bad lifter?? themoneypit Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator 4 05-27-2012 03:16 PM
Lifter replacement ErnieX 2.6, 2.8, 2.9, 4.0 & SOHC 4.0 V6 2 05-02-2007 02:08 PM
Lifter Replacement ErnieX Explorer, Sport Trac, Mountaineer & Aviator 2 05-02-2007 02:06 PM
lifter noise airstream_peddler Aerostar 3 09-09-2003 03:15 AM


Go Back   Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums > Small Chassis Trucks > Ranger & B-Series

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

Forum Jump



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:26 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.7 AC1
Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Advertising - Terms of Use - Privacy Statement - Jobs
This forum is owned and operated by Internet Brands, Inc., a Delaware corporation. It is not authorized or endorsed by the Ford Motor Company and is not affiliated with the Ford Motor Company or its related companies in any way. FordŽ is a registered trademark of the Ford Motor Company.

vbulletin Admin Backup