Right vs Left front drum brake differences
#1
Right vs Left front drum brake differences
1965 f100 Drum brakes. I am just wrapping up a front end rebuild where I replaced the axle and radius arm bushings, new kingpins, shocks and coils with all nicely cleaned and painted parts. Good fun! I threw all my brake parts in the same box and I think this was a mistake.
What I want to know is if the self adjusting cable runs on the same side on both sides of the vehicle. ie both toward the front or both toward the back, or different? If memory serves, the small oval port on the bottom of the backing plate allowed access to the self adjusting "gear". Well after getting everything back together I am concerned that the self adjuster will loosen the brakes rather than tighten them (because i may have flipped some parts from to/from the other side of the vehicle).
Anybody care to give me the ones and twos of how the self adjusters are designed to work?
Thanks in advance
What I want to know is if the self adjusting cable runs on the same side on both sides of the vehicle. ie both toward the front or both toward the back, or different? If memory serves, the small oval port on the bottom of the backing plate allowed access to the self adjusting "gear". Well after getting everything back together I am concerned that the self adjuster will loosen the brakes rather than tighten them (because i may have flipped some parts from to/from the other side of the vehicle).
Anybody care to give me the ones and twos of how the self adjusters are designed to work?
Thanks in advance
#3
Match the rear with the front, OK!
Thanks NumberDummy! I'll check my rear brakes to see which side the lever is on, then match the font accordingly. I'll post later tonight my findings. I just hope I dont have to remove everything to swap the backing plates. They looked identical when they were off the truck getting cleaned/painted- but hey, I've been wrong before.
#5
Believe me I wanted to, but having just rebuilt the drive train a cpl months back I'm not/wasn't financially able to afford it. My cost estimate was $700 plus spindle cost with LMC parts (I don't know why LMC doesn't carry spindles), and if I am lucky I could find a local jem at a pick-n-pull to get the cost down to the $300 range.
I'll wait till I have a bit (more) of disposable cash before I enjoy the ability to stop the beast.
The way I am looking at it - besides having to repeat the kingpin dance - there is not a lot of repeat work to do.
I'll wait till I have a bit (more) of disposable cash before I enjoy the ability to stop the beast.
The way I am looking at it - besides having to repeat the kingpin dance - there is not a lot of repeat work to do.
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#8
The advice always is to upgrade to disks.
Good advice if you have the time and money.
In my case, I needed my truck on the road yesterday, rebuilding the drums was way quicker and cheaper than changing them out for disks.
Ruby made it 47 years with drums and a single m/c, she can make it a couple more.
Good advice if you have the time and money.
In my case, I needed my truck on the road yesterday, rebuilding the drums was way quicker and cheaper than changing them out for disks.
Ruby made it 47 years with drums and a single m/c, she can make it a couple more.
#9
Got it all working again, and its steering like a dream. I had the backing plates switched and that was the start of my re-installation problems. Everything is looking clean and I'm very pleased with the difference between how it used to drive and the way its maneuvering now.
I went to the Pick-n-pull this weekend and pulled the brake assembly, M/C, proportioning valve, lines and brackets off a 76 F100, it was a shame to see her the yard about to be scrapped. I dropped $200 on the parts and got away with some freebies too! [Z-bar and clutch rod with little wear, transmission linkage with the improved design ends-not sure if they will fit yet]
Overall a great portion of the overall project to have completed, now on to the next
I went to the Pick-n-pull this weekend and pulled the brake assembly, M/C, proportioning valve, lines and brackets off a 76 F100, it was a shame to see her the yard about to be scrapped. I dropped $200 on the parts and got away with some freebies too! [Z-bar and clutch rod with little wear, transmission linkage with the improved design ends-not sure if they will fit yet]
Overall a great portion of the overall project to have completed, now on to the next
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