Needing a little help and wondered if someone could lend a hand . I'm close to Kingsport, TN

 

I don't have one yet, but getting one soon. What is your trouble? The guys on here may be able to help just with some info of your problem.

 

I'm pretty sure there are a few Texas PSD owners up in the 99-03 section. Theyre talking about their "South Texas Tech Day" right now. It might be a good idea to check there.

 

Rick, he's in Tennessee.

 

Thanks Bill, read that one wrong. Guess it's too late at night to be giving advice.

 

........I wouldn't say that, just depends on who you're giving it to........and what she looks like

 

My shop is in central bama. No help there huh? WHAT is your truck doing?

 

"Yaa... Make my lunch sammich just like that..." What on earth are we talking about again?

Sorry OP. If you give us some ideas of your problem there are some brilliant troubleshooters here who may be able to help you solve your problem with a code reader

 

Thanks guys no need to be sorry that humor was good, please excuse my horrible typing i wish this was a phone, or i had a speach to text tool.. My 97 120,000 miles i bought knowing it had problems. They had replace the turbo before i bought it and said that it started running bad 2 weeks after that. This is how things go. Fires up after a long crank time, say 10-15 seconds, then if you press the fuel pedal she will miss and blue fuel smoke even when up to temperature and is slow to rev. until 2500rpm then revs fine between 2500-redline. I cleaned the fuel tanks and filter bowl and FPR screen installed a new fuel pump and have 60psi at idle. The filter housing had slime and algea or what ever growth in it. If you shut the truck down and restart it with in 10-15 seconds it starts like a normal powerstroke but if you let it set 30 seconds its back to the long start crank. #3 cyl is cool so i think its inj. problems. I swapped idm , no change, ohmed all wires between inj. and idm all tested good. Compression test on pass. bank all above 340 psi if i remember correctly, lets say nothing real different from each other on that side.
I have a guage on the head for HPOP while cranking it dont move at first then it builds, at 300 psi you can start hearing the inj, fire and by 500 psi its running, i cant remember the #s for free reving been awhile since i messed with it. try to get them if needed.
Plus the clutch is out so i cant put this thing in a pull.... and i dont want to buy one until i know its worth fixing, so at this point i am going to check all cylinders and document the compression, so i dont forget the #s, and if all are good then i will invest the money in it, if not i will invest it in an adapter plate for the 12v i have setting in the garage.....
but i would like to know where to start if it is worth fixing which i suspect the drivers bank of cylinders should be good since i know im having problems on the pass side and they were all good #s

 

hey bill is your truck white with coon hunting stickers in the back window.

 

Nope, Calypso green and white two tone. Have you checked all of the UVCH plugs for burnt pins?

 

Yep checked them ... All looked good plus ohmed out good from the idm plug in

 

Does your HPO reservoir stay full? After you shut it off and let it sit for a minute, check the oil level in the reservoir.

 

I will check it again but ive checked it twice after a pretty long set and it was full both times.

 

Un plug the Map sensor and see if it makes a difference. It will throw a CEL, but it will go away after you plug it back up. Also check the hose going from the intake up to the MAP. Make sure it's not cracked or clogged. If not that, try unplugging the ICP sensor, and see if it makes a difference. That will also throw a CEL. If it's not any of these then it could be the IPR or injectors, or injector o-rings. These are all just guesses on my part, but might narrow things down a little.